Business Class M2 Workshop Manual-3-2

Rear Axle Wheel Hubs, Brake Drums, and Wheel
35.01 Bearings
Dual-Nut Wheel Bearing System Installation and
Adjustment
5. With the jam nut installed and tightened, adjust and 0.005 inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm), turn
the bearings. the adjusting nut again.
IMPORTANT: Do not adjust the wheel bear- 6.3 Once the end play is correct, bend two
ings with the wheel mounted on the hub. tabs of the nut-lock over opposing flats on
You cannot accurately adjust or measure the jam nut.
bearing end play with the wheel mounted on 6.4 Rotate the hub in both directions. It should
the hub. turn freely with no dragging or binding.
End play should be between 0.001 and
5.1 Attach a dial indicator to the hub and set
0.005 inch (0.03 to 0.13 mm).
the point of the indicator in line with the
end of the axle spindle.
If using aluminum hubs, you may have to
install the brake drum on the hub to pro-
vide a steel base for the magnet of the
dial indicator. Mount the drum on the
hub’s drum pilot, then adjust the brake or
have someone apply the brakes to hold
the drum securely while you secure the
drum using the stud at the 12 o’clock posi-
tion, then the studs at about the 4 o’clock
and 8 o’clock positions.
NOTE: If using a stud-piloted hub and a
steel drum, install 1-1/4 inch washers be-
tween the nuts and the drum.
5.2 Release the brakes if you used them to
hold the drum while installing it.
5.3 Grip the sides of the hub at the three
o’clock and nine o’clock positions. Push in
on the hub (and drum, if applicable), to
seat the inboard bearing set. Zero the dial
indicator.
5.4 Once again, grip the sides of the hub at
the three o’clock and nine o’clock posi-
tions. This time, pull out on the hub (and
drum, if applicable). Read the dial indica-
tor, and note the end play.
5.5 Push the hub back in to confirm that the
needle of the dial indicator returns to zero.
6. The end play must be between 0.001 and 0.005
inch (0.03 and 0.13 mm). If the end play is not
within this range, adjust the end play.
6.1 Remove the jam nut and locking device,
and back off or tighten the inner adjusting
nut.
6.2 Install the locking device and jam nut as
described earlier, and measure the end
play. If the end play is not between 0.001
140/2 Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 9, March 2006

Bearings 35.01
ConMet PreSet® Hub Installation and Adjustment
General Information 1
ConMet PreSet®
drive axle hubs are equipped with a
special tubular spacer inside the hub, between the 2
inner and outer bearings. See Fig. 1.
Wheel bearing adjustment is unnecessary when in-
stalling these hubs, because the spacer, together NP 84
03
with specially toleranced bearings, automatically sets 0
2
the bearing end-play to zero. Rear axle PreSet hubs
K EN
can be identified by the part number NP840302
TI M
stamped on the outer bearing cone. The outer bear-
C
AN
ing cone is visible when the retaining nut is removed. ADA
See Fig. 2.
10/23/96 f350157
2
1. Rear Axle Hub
2. Outer Bearing Cone and Part Number
Fig. 2, Identifying a ConMet PreSet Hub

3
CAUTION
Do not use the bearing spacer with standard
wheel bearings. To do so may result in too much
bearing end-play, which could damage the wheel
bearings, oil seals, the axle spindle, and the hub.
6 ConMet PreSet hubs use Axilok® retaining nuts. See
Fig. 3. Axilok retaining nuts can be damaged if they
5 4 are not removed or installed correctly. Use the follow-
11/04/96 f330139 ing guidelines when removing and installing Axilok
NOTE: Front axle hub shown. retaining nuts.
1. Hub 4. Outer Bearing • Use only the correct size, six-point socket to
2. Inner Bearing 5. Axilok Retaining Nut remove or install Axilok spindle nuts. Do not
3. Bearing Spacer 6. Axle Spindle
use a worn or loose-fitting socket. Do not use
a 12-point socket.
Fig. 1, ConMet PreSet Hub (cut-away view)
• Do not use hammers, chisels, pliers, wrenches,
NOTE: If you are replacing the bearings for a or power tools to remove or install Axilok nuts.
PreSet hub, and the required bearings are not
• Do not use an Axilok nut if the locking clips are
available, use standard wheel bearings. Re- damaged or missing, or if the retainer cage tab
move the bearing spacer and adjust the bear- or D-flat is damaged or missing.
ings manually. See the installation instructions
for "Using Standard Bearings," under "Installa- • Never try to repair a damaged Axilok nut; al-
ways replace it with a new one.
tion and Adjustment."
• Always start an Axilok installation by hand. A
good-fitting six-point socket will completely dis-
Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 13, March 2008 150/1

35.01 Bearings
engage the nut’s locking clips, allowing it to

spin freely by hand. See Fig. 4. Use an accu-
rately calibrated torque wrench to tighten the
nut to its final torque value.
• After the nut is installed, always make sure 3
that both locking clips are present and en-
gaged in the retainer cage. See Fig. 4. If the
locking clips are not engaged, the nut is not
locked in position and can rotate freely. 1
2
Installation and Adjustment
Using Preset Bearings
1. Wipe a film of axle oil on the axle spindle to pre- 1
vent rust from forming behind the inner wheel
bearing.
2. If present, remove the temporary plastic bearing
cover from the front of the hub.
3. Install the PreSet hub assembly all the way onto
the axle spindle. A temporary plastic alignment
sleeve may be installed in the center of a new
hub. It will be pushed out when the hub is in-
stalled on the axle spindle. If it is present, re-
move and discard this sleeve.
CAUTION
Do not remove the outer wheel bearing once the
hub is installed on the axle. Removing the outer
bearing could cause the oil seal to become mis- A
aligned, which could cause damage to the wheel
bearings, the hub, and the axle spindle.
WARNING
Follow the guidelines at the beginning of this
subject when installing an Axilok nut. Axilok re- 06/20/95 f350134
taining nuts secure the hub assemblies on the A. The retainer tab must engage the keyway of the
axle. If the Axilok nut is not correctly installed, axle spindle.
the hub could separate from the axle, resulting in
severe personal injury or death. 1. Locking Clip
2. Nut
4. Install the Axilok retaining nut onto the axle 3. Retainer
spindle. See Fig. 3.
Fig. 3, Rear Axle Axilok Nut
5. Tighten the retaining nut 250 lbf·ft (339 N·m). Do
not back off the retaining nut. The nut should 6. Install the axle shaft, using a new gasket. See
lock in place when you remove the wrench. If it Subject 100 for instructions.
does not, advance it until it does.

Bearings 35.01
3. Coat both bearing assemblies with fresh oil. In-

2 stall the inner wheel bearing and oil seal in the
hub. See Section 35.02 for instructions on in-
3 stalling the various types of oil seals.
4. Install the hub with the inner bearing and oil seal
1 onto the axle spindle. Be careful not to unseat
the inner bearing or oil seal.
4
5. Fill the hub cavity with oil, and install the outer
wheel bearing.
B 4 C 6 CAUTION
1 1 Do not remove the outer wheel bearing once the
hub is installed on the axle. Removing the outer
bearing could cause the oil seal to become mis-
aligned, which could cause damage to the wheel
5 bearings, the hub, and the axle spindle.
08/27/98
A f330155
A. Cross-Section View WARNING
B. The tab is engaged. Follow the guidelines at the beginning of this
C. The tab is disengaged.
subject when installing an Axilok nut. Axilok re-
1. Retainer Cage 5. Locking Clip taining nuts secure the hub assemblies on the
2. Locking Clip Tab (compressed) axle. If the Axilok nut is not correctly installed,
3. Nut 6. Six-Point Socket the hub could separate from the axle, resulting in
4. Locking Clip severe personal injury or death.
Fig. 4, Axilok Nut, Checking the Position of the 6. Adjust the wheel bearings.
Locking Clip
6.1 Install the Axilok nut and turn it against the
bearing while spinning the wheel. See
WARNING Fig. 3.
Add oil to the axle housing bowl or the wheel 6.2 Tighten the nut 90 to 110 lbf·ft (122 to 149
hub after the drive axle shaft and wheel hub have N·m) while spinning the wheel in both di-
been serviced. Failure to add oil will damage the rections.
wheel bearings and cause them to seize during 6.3 Loosen the nut to zero torque and spin
vehicle operation. Seized bearing rollers can the wheel a few turns.
cause sudden damage to the tire or axle, possi-
bly resulting in personal injury. 6.4 Tighten the nut 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) while
spinning the wheel in both directions.
7. Pour the recommended drive axle oil through the
Back off the nut one-eighth to one-sixth
axle housing filler hole.
turn.
Using Standard Bearings 6.5 Remove the wrench from the nut. The Ax-
ilok nut should automatically lock in place.
1. If not already done, remove the tubular spacer If it does not, advance it until it does.
from inside the hub. Save it for future use to con-
vert the hub back to the PreSet system. 7. Install the axle shaft, using a new gasket. See
Subject 100 for instructions.
2. Wipe a film of axle oil on the axle spindle to pre-
vent rust from forming behind the inner wheel
bearing.

35.01 Bearings
WARNING
Add oil to the axle housing bowl or the wheel
hub after the drive axle shaft and wheel hub have
been serviced. Failure to add oil will damage the
wheel bearings and cause them to seize during
vehicle operation. Seized bearing rollers can
cause sudden damage to the tire or axle, possi-
bly resulting in personal injury.
8. Remove the fill plug from axle housing, then pour
the recommended drive axle oil through the axle
housing filler hole. Install the filler plug.

Bearings 35.01
Outboard-Mounted Drum Removal and
Installation
Then, using a rag soaked in water and wrung

WARNING until nearly dry, remove any remaining dust.
Don’t use compressed air or dry brushing to
When replacing brake pads, shoes, rotors, or
clean the brake assembly.
drums, always replace components as an axle
set. 5. Remove the brake drum. See Fig. 1.
• Always reline both sets of brakes on an axle at
the same time. Installation
• Always replace both rotors/drums on an axle at
the same time. 1. On brake drum assemblies with an aluminum
hub, coat the hub and drum contact surfaces
• Always install the same type of linings/pads or with Alumilastic® compound or an equivalent.
drums/rotors on both axle ends of a single
axle, and all four axle ends of a tandem axle, 2. Install the brake drum on the wheel hub.
at the same time. Do not mix component 2.1 On hub-piloted drums, position the brake
types. drum on the top step of the pilot pad. One
Failure to do so could cause uneven braking and of the hub’s pilot pads should be at the
loss of vehicle control, resulting in property dam- twelve o’clock (top center) position. See
age, personal injury, or death. Fig. 2.
For an exploded view of a typical wheel and axle as- IMPORTANT: If the drum is not positioned
sembly, including the brake drum, see Fig. 1. correctly, the pilot pad could be damaged
when the wheel nuts are torqued.
Removal 2.2 Make sure that the pilot pads securely
center the drum (space between drum and
1. Park the vehicle, shut down the engine, release hub is equal all around the hub).
the parking brakes and chock the front tires.
IMPORTANT: If damage to the pads pre-
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle until the tires clear vents the drum from centering, replace the
the ground. Then place safety stands under the hub. If necessary to hold the drum in posi-
axle.
tion, adjust the brakes before installing the
3. Back off the slack adjuster to release the rear wheels.
axle brake shoes.
3. Install the wheel and tire assembly. To ensure
that the drum does not slip off the pilot pad, fol-
WARNING low the correct nut tightening sequence. For in-
structions, see Group 40.
Breathing brake lining dust (asbestos or non-
asbestos) could cause lung cancer or lung dis-
ease. OSHA has set maximum levels of exposure WARNING
and requires workers to wear an air purifying res-
pirator approved by MSHA or NIOSH. Wear a res- If the wheel nuts cannot be tightened to minimum
pirator at all times when servicing the brakes, torque values, the wheel studs have lost their
starting with removal of the wheels and continu- locking ability, and the hub flange is probably
ing through assembly. damaged. In this case, replace it with a new
wheel hub assembly. Failure to replace the wheel
4. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. See hub assembly when the conditions described
Group 40 for instructions. above exist, could result in the loss of a wheel or
To minimize the possibility of creating airborne loss of vehicle control, and possible personal in-
brake lining dust, clean the dust from the brake jury.
drum, brake backing plate, and brake assembly, 4. Adjust the rear axle brakes. For instructions, see
using an industrial-type vacuum cleaner Group 42.
equipped with a high-efficiency filter system.
Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 18, September 2010 160/1

35.01 Bearings
Installation
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 18
17
19 20
A 14
07/07/95 f350135
A. Four-piece bearing system shown; an Axi-Lok locking nut could be used.
1. Inner Wheel Bearing Cup 9. Nut-Lock 14. Brake Drum Nut
2. Inner Wheel Bearing 10. Lockring 15. Hub Spacer
3. Oil Seal 11. Adjusting Nut 16. Brake Drum
4. Axle Spindle 12. Outer Wheel Bearing 17. Outer Wheel Bearing Cup
5. Drive Axle Stud Nut 13. Bearing Spacer (used only with 18. Hub
6. Drive Axle Flange and Shaft Con-Met integral wheel bearing 19. Drive Axle Stud
7. Gasket packs) 20. Wheel Stud
8. Jam Nut
Fig. 1, Typical Drive Axle and Hub Assembly (exploded view)
5. Remove the safety stands from under the axle;

lower the vehicle.
6. Remove the chocks from the tires.
160/2 Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 18, September 2010

Bearings 35.01
Installation
05/03/94 f350125
NOTE: Pilot pad at 12 o’clock position

1. Drum Pilot 2. Wheel Pilot
Fig. 2, Hub Pilot Pads

Bearings 35.01
Wheel Bearing Cup Removal and Installation,
Aluminum Hubs
Removal surfaces of the wheel hub assembly, including

the bearing cup bores.
To ensure a tight fit, wheel bearing cups are pur- 2. Inspect the bearing cup bores of the hub for
posely larger than the wheel hub bores they occupy. warpage or uneven surfaces. If a bearing cup
To remove the bearing cups, aluminum hub bores bore is damaged, replace the wheel hub assem-
must be temporarily expanded by heating the hub in bly.
an oven (the bearing cups will also expand, but to a
considerably lesser extent). If adequate heating facili- 3. Oven-heat the hub to a temperature range of
ties are not available, replace the hub, wheel stud, 240 to 280°F (116 to 138°C). Make sure the
and bearing cup assembly. oven thermostat is accurately set; if unsure, use
an oven thermometer to check the temperature
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease, of the oven before placing the hub inside.
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
surfaces of the wheel hub assembly.
WARNING
IMPORTANT: Be sure to follow all the manufac-
turer’s warnings and instructions when using Do not use oxyacetylene equipment or similar
any solvent. equipment to heat the hub. Oxyacetylene equip-
ment or similar equipment will cause cracks in
2. Oven-heat the hub to a temperature range of the hub which could cause loss of a wheel and
240 to 280°F (116 to 138°C). Make sure the loss of vehicle control, leading to personal injury
oven thermostat is accurately set; if unsure, use or property damage.
an oven thermometer to check the temperature
of the oven before placing the hub inside. 4. Coat the replacement bearing cup hub contact
surface with a film of grease.
If adequate heating facilities are not available,
replace the hub, wheel stud, and bearing cup 5. Wearing heavy protective gloves, remove the
assembly. hub from the oven.
6. Place the hub on a suitable press so that the
WARNING base is fully supported. Quickly press-fit the
bearing cup into the wheel hub until it is com-
Do not use oxyacetylene equipment or similar pletely and evenly seated. Be careful not to
equipment to heat the hub. Oxyacetylene equip- shave the sides of the bearing cup bore as the
ment or similar equipment will cause cracks in bearing cup is seated. The accumulation of de-
the hub which could cause loss of a wheel and bris will prevent the cup from being seated and
loss of vehicle control, leading to personal injury will also cause permanent damage to the wheel
or property damage. hub. If the sides of the bearing cup bore are
damaged during installation, replace the wheel
3. Wearing heavy protective gloves, remove the hub assembly.
hub from the oven. Place the hub on a suitable
press so that the base is fully supported. Quickly 7. Allow the wheel hub to cool before handling.
press out the bearing cups. Then, using a 0.0015-inch feeler gauge, check at
several places for the seating of the bearing cup
in the bearing cup bore. The gauge should not
Installation enter beneath the cup. If it does, there is prob-
ably dirt or debris preventing the cup from seat-
To install the bearing cups, aluminum hubs must ing. Using the instructions above, remove the
again be temporarily expanded using oven heating. cup, then remove the foreign matter. Reinstall
When the hub is properly heated, the bearing cup the cup.
and hub can be press-fit together, using a suitable
press.
1. Using a solvent, completely remove all grease,
oil, and other debris from the outer and inner
Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002 170/1

35.01 Bearings
Wheel Bearing Cup Removal and Installation,
Aluminum Hubs
WARNING
To prevent skin irritation, wear chemical-resistant
gloves when using kerosene or diesel fuel. Also,
do not expose these fluids to flames or heat ex-
ceeding 100°F (38°C); both are cumbustible and
could cause personal injury or property damage
if ignited.
8. Wipe off the accumulation of grease left after the
bearing cup has been seated. Then, using a
clean, lint-free cloth dampened with kerosene or
diesel fuel oil, clean the inner surface of the
bearing cup. Wipe the surface dry using a clean,
absorbent, and lint-free cloth or paper.
170/2 Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002

Bearings 35.01
Wheel Stud Replacement
Replacement Constant, smooth movement of the wheel stud is

necessary to ensure the least amount of metal
removal from the wheel stud bore. Concentrated
WARNING heat will damage the hub. If the hub is damaged
during wheel stud removal or installation, replace
If a wheel stud breaks, the remaining studs are it.
subjected to undue strain and could fail due to
fatigue. When a broken stud is replaced, replace 4. Apply a coating of clean axle grease to the entire
the stud on each side of it. See Fig. 1. If more shaft on headed studs.
than one stud is broken, replace all of the studs. 5. With the hub on a suitable press, make sure the
Failure to replace the studs could result in the hub flange is supported evenly around and next
loss of a wheel or loss of vehicle control, possi- to the stud being installed.
bly resulting in personal injury.
6. Position the stud in its hole. Be sure the flat
edge of the head flange on clipped studs is in
line with the shoulder on the hub.
A
CAUTION
If headed studs with serrations are being in-
stalled, position the teeth of the serrated portion
in the notches carved by the original wheel studs
during factory installation. If additional metal is
scraped from the wheel stud bores, the locking
action provided by the serrations will be greatly
weakened. Loss of locking action will prevent
achieving final torque of the wheel nuts during
wheel installation. If final wheel nut torques dur-
ing wheel installation cannot be achieved, re-
place the wheel hub assembly.
08/26/94 f330010a
NOTE: If the left side of the vehicle is being ser-
NOTE: Front hub shown. viced, the replacement wheel stud must be
A. Replace stamped with an "L" (left-hand threaded), and
Fig. 1, Wheel Stud Replacement the face of the nut must be stamped "Left." If
the right side of the vehicle is being serviced,
1. Remove the wheel hub from the axle. For in- the replacement stud must be stamped with an
structions, see Subject 100. "R" (right-hand threaded), and the face of the
2. If a bent portion of a wheel stud will have to pass nut must be stamped "Right." See Fig. 2.
through the wheel stud bore, cut off the bent por- 7. With steady movement, press the new stud all
tion before removing the wheel stud. the way into the hub.
3. Place the wheel hub on a suitable press; make 8. Make sure the stud is fully seated and that its
sure the hub flange is supported evenly around head (flange) is not embedded into the hub. If
and next to the stud being removed. With steady the head of the stud is embedded into the hub,
movement, press the damaged stud out of the replace the hub.
hub.
CAUTION WARNING
Don’t embed the wheel stud heads in the wheel
Do not use a drift and hammer or concentrated
hub. Wheel studs with heads embedded in the
heat for removing and installing the wheel studs.
wheel hub will weaken the wheel hub flange.

35.01 Bearings
Wheel Stud Replacement
08/26/94 f350053a
A. "Right"
Fig. 2, Thread Stamp Location

Weakness in the wheel hub can result in the loss
of a wheel or loss of steering control, possibly
resulting in personal injury.
9. Wipe off any grease on the wheel studs and
wheel hub. Install wheel nuts on dry wheel studs
only.
10. Install the wheel hub on the axle. For instruc-
tions, see Subject 100.

Bearings 35.01
Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem — Noisy Bearings or Excessive Bearing Replacement Intervals
Problem — Noisy Bearings or Excessive Bearing Replacement Intervals
Possible Cause Remedy
Not enough oil was used on the bearings, Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Coat the
or the wrong type of oil was used. bearing assemblies with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, see
Specifications 400.
Foreign matter or corrosive agents entered Clean, then inspect the bearings for wear. Replace worn seals. Also clean the
the bearing assembly. Dirt or metallic wheel hub, the axle spindle, and any other component in contact with the
debris from the bearings was not removed. bearing lubricant.
An incorrect adjustment of the wheel Adjust the wheel bearings following the instructions in Subject 140 or
bearings is causing noise and wear. Subject 150.
Flat spots or dents on the roller surface Clean, then inspect the bearing rollers. Replace the bearing if damaged. Coat
were caused by skidding of the roller or the replacement bearings with fresh oil. For lubricant specifications, see
improper handling of the wheel bearing Specifications 400.
during installation.
Problem — Broken Wheel or Rim Studs

Problem — Broken Wheel or Rim Studs
The wheel or rim nuts were overtightened. Replace the wheel or rim studs. See Group 40 of the Business Class M2
Maintenance Manual for the wheel or rim nut tightening sequence.
An incorrect nut tightening sequence was
used.
The wrong brake drums were installed. Install new brake drums.
Wheels are mismatched (hub-piloted Install properly matched wheels.
wheels are mixed with stud-piloted
wheels).
The vehicle is being overloaded. Do not exceed the maximum load-carrying capacity of the vehicle.
Problem — Damaged Hub

Problem — Damaged Hub
(Cracked hub) Local surface of an Replace the hub assembly. When removing the bearing cup, oven-heat the
aluminum hub was heated higher than hub.
350°F (177°C) during bearing cup
removal.
(Bent flange) Incorrect installation of the Replace the hub assembly. Replace the wheel studs as instructed in
wheel studs, such as using a hammer and Subject 180.
drift, or the hub flange was not fully
supported on the press during wheel stud
replacement.
Insufficient tightening of the wheel nuts to Replace the hub assembly and tighten the wheel nuts to the values in
the wheel hub. Specifications 400.

35.01 Bearings
Troubleshooting
Problem — Loss of Lubricant From the Wheel Hubs

Problem — Loss of Lubricant From the Wheel Hubs
The drive axle studs are loose. Tighten the nuts to the torque values in Specifications 400. Add lubricant to
the axle housing or to the wheel hub.
The seals or gaskets are worn or Replace worn or damaged parts.
damaged.
Minor burrs or rough spots are on the Use fine-grit emery cloth to remove the burrs or rough spots. If they cannot be
inboard portion of the drive axle flange. removed, replace the drive axle shaft.
Problem — Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
Problem — Vehicle Does Not Slow Down Quickly Enough When Brakes Are Applied
The brake linings are glazed (dirt or Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn, or
grease build-up) or are worn unevenly. replace the drums.
The brake drums are worn, heat-checked, Install new brake drums.
or cracked.
Problem — Service Brakes Grab or Pull

Problem — Service Brakes Grab or Pull
The drum could be out of round if it was Position one of the hub-piloted tabs in the top position before placing the drum
not correctly positioned on the drum pilot on the hub. When doing so, be sure the drum is located flat against the hub
tabs before the wheel was installed. and on the largest-diameter portion of the pilot tabs. After placing the wheel(s)
on the studs, firmly hand-tighten the nut on the stud closest to the top
position. Proceed with the other nuts.
See the air brake system troubleshooting section in Group 42.
Problem — Poor Lining-to-Drum Contact

Problem — Poor Lining-to-Drum Contact
The inside surface of the brake drum is Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Turn or replace the
scored or grooved. brake drums.
The brake shoes are stretched or bent. Replace the brake shoes.
Undersized linings were installed. Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes.
An incorrect grind was used on the brake
linings.
bearings is causing wheel instability. Subject 150.

Bearings 35.01
Troubleshooting
Problem — Brake Linings Are Tapered Across the Width

Problem — Brake Linings Are Tapered Across the Width
The inside surface of the brake drum is Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Turn or replace the
scored or grooved. brake drums.
The brake shoes are bent. Replace the brake shoes.
bearings is causing wheel instability. Subject 150.
Problem — Brake Shoes on the Same Brake Are Wearing Unequally

Problem — Brake Shoes on the Same Brake Are Wearing Unequally
The brake linings are not a matched set. Install a new matched set of brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes.
Different friction codes or different brands Clean, turn, or replace the drums.
of brake linings are installed.
The inside surface of the brake drum is in Turn or replace the brake drums.
poor condition.
The wheel bearings are out of adjustment. Adjust the wheel bearings following the instructions in Subject 140 or
Subject 150.
Problem — Edge of the Lining Is Showing Wear

Problem — Edge of the Lining Is Showing Wear
The brake lining is too wide. Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes.
The brake linings are misaligned because
their holes were incorrectly drilled.
Undersized brake drums were installed. Install new brake drums.
Subject 150.
There is an improper fit of the wheel onto Install and adjust the new wheel bearings and cone.
the spindle due to the wrong wheel
bearings or cone.
The brake shoes are bent. Replace the brake shoes.
Problem — Brake Linings Are Scored or Grooved

Problem — Brake Linings Are Scored or Grooved
Worn or scored brake drums have been Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Turn or replace the
causing poor contact with the brake brake drums.
linings.
There is abrasive material between the
lining and the drum.

35.01 Bearings
Troubleshooting
Problem — Brake Linings Are Loose

Problem — Brake Linings Are Loose
The rivet holes in the brake shoes are too Replace the brake shoes.
large.
Improperly crimped rivets are working Replace the rivets.
loose and allowing the linings to move.
Rust has built up on the shoe table. Clean the brake shoe table of all rust, dirt, scale, and paint.
Problem — Brake Lining is Cracked at the Rivet Holes or Bolt Holes

Problem — Brake Lining is Cracked at the Rivet Holes or Bolt Holes
Overtightening of the lining bolts is Replace the brake linings. Replace the rivets or bolts with the correct size.
causing cracks.
The wrong size counter bore for the rivet
holes was made.
The wrong rivets or bolts were used. Replace the rivets or bolts with the correct size.
Improperly crimped rivets are working Replace the rivets.
loose and allowing the linings to move.
Rust has built up on the shoe table. Clean the brake shoe table of all rust, dirt, scale, and paint.
Problem — Out-of-Round Rivet Holes or Bolt Holes

Problem — Out-of-Round Rivet Holes or Bolt Holes
The rivets or bolts are loose. Replace the brake shoes or linings.
Problem — Brake Drums Are Heat-Checked

Problem — Brake Drums Are Heat-Checked
The brake drums are out-of-round. Turn or replace the brake drums.
Subject 150.
The brake linings are glazed (dirt or Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Clean, turn, or
grease build-up) or are worn unevenly. replace the drums.
The lining friction material for the operation
of the vehicle is incorrect.
There is a brake imbalance between the Do a brake balance test (tractor versus trailer). Contact the District Service
tractor and the trailer. Manager if help is needed.

Bearings 35.01
Troubleshooting
Problem — Brake Drums Are Heavily Scored

Problem — Brake Drums Are Heavily Scored
The brake linings are damaged. Install new brake linings on both sets of axle brake shoes. Turn or replace the
drums.
There is excessive wear on the linings.
On the last brake reline, the drums were Turn the brake drums.
not turned.
Problem — Excessive Brake Lining Wear

Problem — Excessive Brake Lining Wear
There is a brake imbalance between the Do a brake balance test (tractor versus trailer). Contact the District Service
tractor and the trailer. Manager if help is needed.

Bearings 35.01
Specifications
Torque Values
Application Size (grade 8) Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
1/2–13 70 (95)
Drive Axle Studs (to hub)
5/8–11 135 (185)
Drive Axle Stud Nuts 5/8–18 150–170 (203–230)
Axilok® Wheel Bearing Nuts
Axilok Nut, ConMet Preset® Bearings — 250 (339)
Stage 1: Tighten to 90–110 (122–149) While Spinning Hub in
Both Directions
Stage 2: Back Off Completely
Axilok Nut, Standard Bearings —
Stage 3: Tighten to 50 (68) While Spinning Hub in Both
Directions
Stage 4: Back Off 1/6 Turn
Dual-Nut Wheel Bearing Lock System, Standard Hub
Stage 1: Tighten to 100 (136)
Stage 2: Back Off Completely
Adjusting Nut —
Stage 3: Tighten to 20 (27) While Rotating Hub
Stage 4: Back Off 1/3 Turn
1-1/8 to 2-1/2 200–300 (271–407)
Jam Nut (with Nut-Lock and Lockring)
2-5/8 or larger 250–400 (339–542)
Table 1, Torque Values

Rear Axle Oil Seals 35.02
General Information
General Information • Dana Spicer (Outrunner™)
Wheel oil seals (also called "oil bath seals" or "hub Chicago Rawhide
seals") work as a dam to keep oil in the hub cavity
so that it constantly "bathes" the wheel bearings. The The Chicago Rawhide Scotseal is a unitized, one-
seals also protect the wheel bearings by keeping dirt, piece design consisting of a sealing element (pack-
dust, and water out of the hub. ing) that is assembled between metal outer and inner
The oil seal fits between the hub bore and the axle cups. See Fig. 1. The sealing element consists of
spindle, and the sealing element either turns with the three sealing lips; a spring-loaded primary sealing lip
wheel ( hub-mounted seals) and seals against the that is factory pre-lubed and two dirt exclusion lips.
axle spindle, or the sealing element stays stationary The seal is press fit into the hub bore using Scotseal
with the axle spindle ( spindle-mounted seals) and service installation tools. Do not install the Scotseal
seals against the turning hub. directly onto the axle spindle.
Most wheel oil seals consist of four basic parts: Although you install the Scotseal into the hub bore,
the seal’s element grips the axle spindle tightly
• The outside edge (also called the outer "cup" enough that the sealing element stays stationary with
or "case") the spindle and seals against the outer cup which
• The inside edge (also called the inner "cup" or turns with the hub.
"case") The Chicago Rawhide Scotseal maintains a metal-to-
• The sealing element metal contact between the outer cup and the hub
bore surface as well as a metal-to-metal contact be-
• The garter spring tween the sealing element inside edge and the axle
The outside edge is usually metal coated with rubber spindle.
or another sealing agent so that it grips the hub bore
tight enough to prevent oil escaping between the Dana Spicer
outer edge of the seal and the hub bore.
The inside edge is usually metal or rubber with a The Dana Spicer Outrunner has a rubber-coated out-
metal ring within it to prevent the sealing element side edge and is installed in the hub bore using
from wearing a groove in the axle spindle. Dana Spicer installation tools. See Fig. 2.
The sealing element is usually molded rubber,
leather, or a synthetic such as nitrile or silicone. The
element is molded into lips which will seal against
the axle spindle or against the outside or inside edge
described above. The innermost lip, called the "pri-
mary lip," keeps the oil inside the hub cavity. The
outermost lip, called the "secondary lip," keeps dirt
out of the hub cavity.
The garter spring is a coiled wire spring with its ends
connected to make a loop. On hub-mounted seals,
the spring runs around the outside of the sealing ele-
ment to press the element inwards against the seal-
ing surface. On spindle-mounted seals, the spring
runs around the inside of the sealing element to
press the element outward against the sealing sur-
face.
Freightliner uses two brands of axle oil seals:
• Chicago Rawhide (Scotseal® and Scotseal
Plus®)

35.02 Rear Axle Oil Seals
General Information
1
A 2
3
4
5
8
B
6
05/19/95 f330011a
A. Detail A B. Oil Seal (See detail A)
1. Bore-Tite® Coating 4. Outer Cup 7. Bumper Lip
2 Primary Sealing Lip 5. Inner Cup 8. Hub
3. Dirt Lip 6. Sealing Element (Packing) 9. Hub Bore
Fig. 1, Chicago Rawhide Scotseal

General Information
1 2
03/27/95 f330117a
1. Dana Spicer Outrunner Installation Tool

2. Dana Spicer Outrunner Seal
Fig. 2, Dana Spicer Outrunner Seal

Seal Replacement, Chicago Rawhide
Replacement
NOTE: This procedure applies to the Chicago
Rawhide Scotseal®.
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 35.01, Subject 100.
2. Remove the oil seal from the hub.
3. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from
the hub. Handling the bearings with clean dry
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper
or lint-free cloths. Occasionally, the inner wheel
bearing cone assembly will remain in the hub
after the seal is removed. In those cases, place
a protective cushion to catch the bearing assem-
bly. Using a hardwood drift and a light hammer,
gently tap the bearing out of the inner wheel
bearing cup.
08/08/94 f330096a
4. Clean the spindle, spindle threads, seal bore,
and the hub cavity. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. Fig. 2, Clean the Spindle
5. Remove all burrs from the shoulder and the seal
bore with an emery cloth or a file. Clean any CAUTION
metal filings from the components.
Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause
rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning the
wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, metal
filings, or other contaminants can scratch the
bearing roller surfaces, and cause premature
wear of the bearing assembly.
6. Inspect the bearings and hub components for
wear or damage. Replace any worn or damaged
components as necessary.
7. Coat the wheel bearing cones with oil.
8. Install the inner wheel bearing cone in the inner
wheel bearing cup.
9. Seat the small outside edge of the seal in the
recess of the tool adaptor. See Fig. 3. The cor-
rect adaptor is identified on the box.
11/30/94 f330021a
10. Insert the centering plug of the tool in the bore of
NOTE: Rear hub shown. the inner bearing cone. See Fig. 4. The plug pre-
Fig. 1, Clean the Hub vents cocking of the seal in the bore.
11. Hold the tool handle firmly, and strike it until the
sound of the impact changes as the seal bottoms

09/27/2005 f330023a
11/30/94 f330022a
NOTE: Rear hub shown. NOTE: Rear hub shown.
Fig. 3, Place the Seal on the Installation Tool Fig. 4, Insert the Tool in the Hub Bore
out. See Fig. 5. Hold the tool firmly to avoid 16. Spin the wheel and check the oil level.
bounce or unseating of the seal from the adap- 17. Adjust the brake shoe-to-drum clearance. For
tor. instructions, see Group 42 of the Business Class
12. After the seal is bottomed in the bore, check for M2 Maintenance Manual.
freedom of movement by manually moving the
interior rubber part of the seal back and forth. A
slight movement indicates a damage-free instal-
lation.
13. Install the wheel hub on the axle, and adjust the
wheel bearings. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 35.01, Subject 100.
IMPORTANT: When starting the wheel on the
spindle, center the hub carefully to avoid seal
damage from the leading edge of the spindle.
14. Place the hubcap and a new gasket in position,
then install the capscrews. Tighten the cap-
screws 15 lbf·in (20 N·m).
15. Fill the hub with oil to the level shown on the
hubcap. See Fig. 6. Do not overfill.

02/09/93 f330025a
1. Filler Plug
Fig. 6, Fill the Hub with Oil
09/27/2005 f330024a
NOTE: Rear hub shown.

Fig. 5, Strike the Tool

Seal Replacement, Dana Spicer
Replacement
NOTE: This procedure applies to the Dana
Spicer Outrunner™ seal.
1. Remove the wheel, drum, and hub from the axle.
For instructions, see Section 35.01, Subject 100.
2. Remove the oil seal from the hub.
3. Remove the inner wheel bearing assembly from
the hub. Handling the bearings with clean dry
hands, wrap the bearings in clean oil-proof paper
or lint-free cloths. Occasionally, the inner wheel
bearing cone assembly will remain in the hub
after the seal is removed. In those cases, place
a protective cushion to catch the bearing assem-
bly. Using a hardwood drift and a light hammer,
gently tap the bearing out of the inner wheel
bearing cup.
4. Clean and inspect the bearings, the spindle,
spindle threads, seal bore, and the hub cavity. 11/30/94 f330021a
NOTE: Rear hub shown.
IMPORTANT: Use extreme care in cleaning
the wheel hub cavity and axle spindle. Dirt, Fig. 1, Clean and Inspect the Hub Bore
metal filings, or other contaminants can
scratch the bearing roller surfaces, and
cause premature wear of the bearing as-
sembly.
4.1 Inspect the inner hub bore. Remove dirt
and contaminants from all recesses and
corners. Smooth any sharp edges with
emery cloth, and fill in any grooves with
filler. See Fig. 1.
4.2 Wipe the hub area with a clean shop
cloth.
4.3 After removing the hub, inspect the
spindle. Remove any sharp edges and
burrs from the leading edges and the
shoulder area. Repair deep gouges with
filler and smooth with an emery cloth.
See Fig. 2.
4.4 Wipe the seal and shoulder area with a 08/08/94 f330096a
clean shop cloth.
Fig. 2, Clean and Inspect the Axle Spindle
CAUTION rapid wear of the bearing assembly. Treat used
bearings as carefully as new ones.
Do not spin bearing rollers at any time. Dirt or
grit can scratch the roller surface and cause

4.5 Inspect the bearings and hub components

for wear or damage. Replace any worn or
damaged components as necessary.
4.6 Coat the wheel bearing cones with oil.
5. Install the inner wheel bearing cone in the inner
wheel bearing cup.
IMPORTANT: Use the Dana Spicer Outrunner
installation tool with the centering tool when in-
stalling the seal. See Fig. 3.
6. Install the oil seal in the hub bore.
2 3 03/27/95 f330117
1 Fig. 4, Seal Placement on Tool

IMPORTANT: Install the seal in the hub bore
with the hub laid flat. Do not install the seal
with the hub in the vertical (upright) position.
6.2 With the hub and the wheel assembly laid
flat on the floor, place the inner bearing
03/27/95 f330118 cone in the cup.
1. Outrunner Handle
2. Outrunner Adapter Plate
6.3 Position the oil seal in the hub bore. Be-
3. Bearing Centering Tool fore striking the handle of the installation
tool, tap the adaptor plate around the
Fig. 3, Dana Spicer Outrunner Installation Tool outer edge to position the seal. See
Fig. 5.
CAUTION
Do not use any silicone or permatex type bore
sealant with this seal. The Dana Spicer Corpora-
tion recommends a light coating of bearing oil on
the outer circumference of the seal.
Do not mix lubricants of different grades. Do not
mix mineral and synthetic lubricants. Do not pack
the bearings with grease when using an oil bath
system. Failure to follow these installation guide-
lines will result in less than desired performance
of the Outrunner seal, and installation-related fail-
ures are not covered under warranty.
6.1 Place the Outrunner seal tool with the
words "air side" facing the adaptor plate
of the installation tool. See Fig. 4. Lubri-
cate the seal outer circumference with 03/27/95 f330119
wheel bearing oil.
Fig. 5, Position the Seal

6.4 Hit the handle of the installation tool gen- 8. Place the hubcap and a new gasket in position,
tly. See Fig. 6. then install the capscrews. Tighten the cap-
screws 15 lbf·ft (20 N·m).
Because of the rubber outer circumfer-
ence, the Outrunner seal is easier to in- 9. Fill the hub with oil to the level shown on the
stall than seals with metal outer circum- hubcap. See Fig. 7. Do not overfill.
ferences. When the adaptor plate bottoms
out on the hub surface, the seal is in-
stalled correctly. You will hear a metal-to-
metal sound.
02/09/93 f330025a
1. Filler Plug
Fig. 7, Fill the Hub with Oil

03/30/95 f330124
10. Spin the wheel and check the oil level.
Fig. 6, Install the Seal 11. Adjust the brake shoe-to-drum clearance. For
6.5 Check that the seal is not cocked, and instructions, see Group 42 of the Business Class
that the unitized seal inner circumference M2 Maintenance Manual.
and inner bearing turn freely.
6.6 Lubricate the inner circumference of the
seal with a light film of clean bearing oil.
7. Install the wheel hub on the axle, and adjust the
wheel bearings. For instructions, see Sec-
IMPORTANT: When starting the wheel on the
spindle, center the hub carefully to avoid seal
damage from the leading edge of the spindle.

Freightliner Rear Axles 35.03
General Information
General Information
Although these axles are a Freightliner proprietary
product, in some applications they may be referred to
as "MB components."
Freightliner rear axles are compatible with industry-
standard brakes, hubs, and wheel bearings.
The following explains an example of the number
found on a Freightliner rear axle identification tag,
which is located on the carrier. See Fig. 1.
Typical Model Number: ART-40.0-4
• ART = tandem rear axle
• 40.0 = weight rating (times 1000 lb)
• 4 = basic model number
02/05/2008 f080152
Fig. 1, Rear Axle ID Tag
Freightliner rear axles may have a main differential

lock, which is commonly known as the "DCDL"
(Driver-Controlled Differential Lock). The DCDL is an
optional feature that can lock the differential assem-
bly. When the differential lock is engaged, the clutch
collar completely locks the differential case, gearing,
and axle shafts together to maximize traction of both
wheels and protect against spinout. Each part of the
DCDL is replaceable; see Subject 180 for Model 2
axles, and Subject 190 for Model 4 axles.
On tandem axles there are three possible differential
lock options: forward-rear carrier only, rear-rear car-
rier only, or both rear carriers.

Single or Rearmost Axle Removal and Installation
Removal 12. Place a basin under the axle shaft flanges to

catch any oil, then remove the axle shafts. For
instructions, see Subject 120.
For rear axle components, see Fig. 1.
13. Drain the air system, if installed.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the 14. If installed, disconnect the DCDL air line from the
front tires. Put the transmission in neutral. carrier housing.
2. Using a suitable jack, raise the vehicle enough to 15. If necessary, back off the slack adjusters. Re-
take the weight off the axles, but not enough to move the brake drums.
raise the tires off the ground. 16. Remove the hubs from the axle spindles. For
3. At both ends of the axle, loosen all the wheel instructions, see Section 35.00, Subject 100.
nuts. 17. Remove the brake shoes. For instructions, see
4. Continue to raise the vehicle evenly until there is the applicable service brake section in
room to fit a stand underneath the axle housing. Group 42.
18. If applicable, disconnect the leveling valve rod(s)
WARNING from the suspension.
Never work around or under a vehicle that is sup- 19. If installed, disconnect the air lines from the rear
ported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle brake chambers. Then remove the brake air
with safety stands. Jacks can slip, allowing the chambers and the slack adjusters from the axle
vehicle to fall, which could result in serious in- housing. For instructions, see Group 42.
jury or death. 20. Remove the brake spiders from the axle flanges.
5. Support the vehicle with safety stands. 20.1 At the frame rail or crossmember, discon-
6. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. For in- nect the wiring for the ABS sensors. Re-
structions, see Group 40. move any tie straps that hold the wires to
the frame rails.
7. Remove the oil drain plug from the bottom of the
differential housing and drain the oil. Install the 20.2 Remove the ABS sensors and wiring.
drain plug after emptying.
20.3 Remove the fasteners that hold the brake
8. Disconnect the driveshaft from the differential spiders to the axle flanges. Remove the
carrier. For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub- spiders from the axle.
ject 120. Using suitable straps, support the end
21. Using a suitable jack, support the axle housing.
of the driveshaft by attaching it to the frame rail.
22. If applicable, remove the hexnuts that hold the
9. Release the parking brakes.
bottom of each suspension air bag to its suspen-
10. Cage the parking brake springs to prevent the sion bracket.
parking brakes from engaging. For instructions,
23. Remove the suspension components that attach
see Group 42.
the axle to the vehicle. If applicable, remove the
11. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, use the U-bolt nuts from the U-bolts. Discard the U-bolt
DCDL switch in the cab to engage the lock. An nuts and U-bolts.
indicator light comes on when the differential lock
24. Lower the axle enough to clear the suspension
is engaged. Turn the appropriate wheels to en-
components.
sure the lock is fully engaged.
25. Remove the axle from the vehicle.
IMPORTANT: The wheel lock must be fully en-
gaged to prevent the possibility of damage to 26. If you are going to replace the differential carrier,
wheel lock components while the axle shafts are place the axle on a secure axle stand.
being removed.

35.03 Freightliner Rear Axles
1
2
7
05/23/2005 f350459
1. Differential Carrier 4. Carrier Yoke 6. Rear Axle Housing
2. Radial Shaft Seal 5. Carrier Capscrew 7. Axle Shaft
3. Yoke Nut
Fig. 1, Single or Rearmost Axle Components
Installation On vehicles without U-bolts, install the

walking beams.
1. Position the axle underneath the vehicle. 2.2 If applicable, tighten the new U-bolt nuts
2. Install the suspension components that attach in a diagonal pattern. For torque values,
the axle to the vehicle, as follows. see Group 32.
3. Connect the driveshaft to the differential carrier
NOTE: U-bolts and U-bolt nuts cannot be yoke. For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub-
reused. ject 120.
2.1 On vehicles with conventional suspen- 4. Install the brake spiders on the axle flanges. For
sions, install the upper U-bolt brackets, instructions, see the applicable service brake
new U-bolts, lower U-bolt brackets, and section in Group 42.
new U-bolt nuts.
5. Install the ABS sensors and connect the wiring at
On vehicles with air suspensions, in addi- the frame rail. Secure the wiring with tie straps
tion to the U-bolts, install the hexnuts that as needed.
attach the air springs to the suspension
brackets. For torque values, see 6. Install the brake air chambers (if removed) and
Group 32. slack adjusters on the axle housing brackets. For
instructions, see Group 42.

7. Connect the air lines to the brake air chambers. tilted position for three minutes to allow oil to run
into the wheel end.
8. Install the brake shoes, as removed. For instruc-
tions, see the applicable service brake section in
Group 42. NOTICE
9. Fill each hub with approved axle oil until you can Make sure the hubs are filled. Driving with the
see a small amount of oil trickling out of the back hubs dry will cause bearing damage.
of the hub (fill with about 0.8 quart, or 0.75 liter).
Install the hubs on the axle spindles, and adjust 18. Turn the wheels, wait one minute, and check the
the wheel bearings. For instructions, see Sec- lubricant level.
tion 35.00. 19. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
NOTE: See Table 1 for approved axle oils. then lower the vehicle.
10. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, connect the 20. If applicable, connect the suspension leveling
DCDL air line, fill the air system, and use the valve(s). Start the engine, build the air pressure,
DCDL switch in the cab to engage the lock. An and make sure the suspension air bags inflate
indicator light comes on when the differential lock correctly. Make sure the ride height is correct.
is engaged. For instructions, see Group 32.
21. Check the operation of the DCDL, if installed.
gaged to prevent the possibility of damage to 22. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
wheel lock components while the axle shafts are should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
being installed. approved axle oil, if needed.
11. Using new gaskets, install the axle shafts. For 23. Set the parking brake, then remove the chocks
instructions, see Subject 120. from the front tires.
12. Install the brake drums on the hubs.
13. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. For instruc-
tions, see Group 40.
14. Adjust the brakes. For instructions, see the appli-
cable service brake section in Group 42.
15. Uncage the parking brake springs.
16. Using approved axle oil, fill the axle housing to
the bottom of the fill hole, or until filled to capac-
ity as shown in Table 1.
Approved Single Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity

Oil Type Capacity: quarts (liters)
Model
Mineral Synthetic Hubs Full Hubs Dry
2 5.8 (5.5) 7.4 (7.0)
80W-90 75W-90
4 10.6 (10.0) 12.2 (11.5)
Table 1, Approved Single Rear Axle Oil Type and
Capacity
17. If the hubs are dry, raise one side of the vehicle
about 8 inches (20 cm) to let the oil flow into the
hub on the opposite side, then raise the other
side in the same manner. On each side, hold the

Single or Rearmost Axle Differential Carrier
Removal and Installation
Do not disassemble the differential carrier. There are

no serviceable parts in the differential assembly; it
Axle Removed from Vehicle
must be replaced as a unit. However, it is possible to
remove the differential carrier to repair an oil leak, or WARNING
to remove the wheel lock (differential lock). The differential carrier is heavy. Do not try to
When the wheel lock is removed, inspect the carrier move it without a suitable support. To do so
for damage and replace it if damage is found. If no could result in the carrier falling, which could
damage is found, install the carrier again. cause serious personal injury and component
damage. Support the carrier with a suitable jack
and chain it to the jack, or use a hoist if the axle
Removal has been removed from the vehicle.
1. Using a suitable jack, support the differential car-
NOTE: The differential carrier can be removed
rier. Chain the differential carrier to the jack.
either with the rear axle installed on the vehicle
or with the rear axle removed from the vehicle. 2. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, ensure the
lock is engaged. Turn the appropriate wheels to
Axle Installed on Vehicle verify it is fully engaged.
3. Remove the carrier capscrews that hold the dif-
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down ferential carrier to the axle housing. See Fig. 1.
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
front tires. Put the transmission in neutral. 4. With the differential carrier securely supported,
remove it from the axle housing.
2. If applicable, release the suspension air pres-
sure.
3. Using suitable jacks, raise the vehicle evenly
Installation
until there is room to fit a stand underneath the
axle housing.
IMPORTANT: If you replace the yoke on the dif-
ferential carrier, use a new nut when installing
4. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. For in- the new yoke.
NOTE: Use a cleaning solvent and clean rags to
rear axle housing and drain the oil. Install the
remove dirt. Blow dry the cleaned areas with air.
drain plug after emptying. 1. Remove any old sealant material from the mating
6. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, use the surfaces of the axle housing. Clean the inside of
DCDL switch in the cab to engage the lock. An the rear axle housing and the forward carrier
indicator light comes on when the differential lock mating surface.
is engaged. Turn the appropriate wheels to en- 2. Inspect the axle housing for damage. Repair or
sure the lock is fully engaged. replace the axle housing as necessary.
7. Disconnect the driveshaft from the carrier input 3. Apply a thin bead of Loctite® 5900 sealant all the
yoke. For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub- way around the mating surface of the axle hous-
ject 120. Using suitable straps, support the end ing, and around each bolt hole.
of the driveshaft by attaching it to the frame rail.
NOTE: Alignment dowels for installing the differ-
8. Place a basin under the axle shaft flanges, then ential carrier can be made by sawing off the
remove the axle shafts. For instructions, see heads of two M12 x 1.5 x 100 mm bolts (for
Subject 120. Model 2 axles) or M16 x 1.5 x 100 mm bolts (for
9. Do the steps under the heading, "Axle Removed Model 4 axles).
from Vehicle."
4. Install alignment dowels 180 degrees apart at the
3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions on the axle
housing flange.

1
2
7
05/23/2005 f350459
1. Differential Carrier 4. Carrier Yoke 6. Rear Axle Housing
2. Radial Shaft Seal 5. Carrier Capscrew 7. Axle Shaft
3. Yoke Nut
Fig. 1, Single or Rearmost Axle Components
5. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, ensure it is 7.1 For the last 3/4 inch (19 mm) or so of
engaged. travel, walk the carrier slowly into the
housing.
NOTICE IMPORTANT: The end caps fit tightly into the
Make sure the differential carrier is centered and axle housing. Be very careful not to cock the
straight on the axle housing before you install carrier.
the mounting capscrews. Attempting to install 7.2 Install the carrier capscrews finger-tight.
the carrier when it is not centered or straight may Make sure the carrier capscrews turn eas-
cause damage to the carrier. ily in the axle housing.
6. Using a hoist (if the axle is removed from the 7.3 In a star pattern, gradually tighten the car-
vehicle) or a suitable transmission jack, install rier capscrews to the values given.
the differential carrier into the axle housing. Use
the alignment dowels to center the carrier on the • M12 capscrews: 115 lbf·ft (156 N·m)
axle housing. • M16 capscrews: 200 lbf·ft (270 N·m)
7. Install the end caps at the sides of the carrier 8. If removed, install the axle on the vehicle. For
into the corresponding slots in the axle housing. instructions, see Subject 100.
See Fig. 2.

1
NOTICE
2 Make sure the hubs are filled. Driving with the
hubs dry will cause bearing damage.
14. Turn the wheels, wait one minute, and check the
lubricant level.
15. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
then lower the vehicle.
3
16. Start the engine, build the air pressure, and
check that the suspension air bags inflate evenly
and correctly. Make sure the ride height is cor-
rect.
11/10/2004 f350438
17. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
1. Differential Carrier approved axle oil, if needed.
2. End Cap Bolt
3. End Cap 18. Remove the chocks from the front tires.
Fig. 2, Carrier End Caps
If the axle is already on the vehicle, go to the

next step.
9. Connect the driveshaft to the carrier input yoke.
For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub-
ject 120.
10. Using new gaskets, install the axle shafts. For
11. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. For instruc-
Approved Single Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity

Oil Type Capacity: quarts (liters)
Model
2 5.8 (5.5) 7.4 (7.0)
80W-90 75W-90
4 10.6 (10.0) 12.2 (11.5)
Table 1, Approved Single Rear Axle Oil Type and
Capacity
13. Raise one side of the vehicle about 8 inches (20

cm) to let the oil flow into the hub on the oppo-
site side, then raise the other side in the same
manner. On each side, hold the tilted position for
three minutes to allow oil to run into the wheel
end.

Axle Shaft Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Chock the front tires.
2. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, use the 3
DCDL switch in the cab to engage the lock. An
indicator light comes on when the differential lock
is engaged. Turn the appropriate wheels to en-
3. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a suitable jack 2
high enough to clear the axle. Support the axle
with jack stands.
4. Place a basin under the axle shaft flanges to
catch any oil. Dispose of used oil properly.
1
5. If necessary, remove the rear wheels and tires.
For procedures, see Group 40. 12/13/2004 f350440
NOTE: This procedure can be done with the Apply light pressure with the hand or knee at the arrow.
wheels and tires installed or with the wheels Use the adjustable wrench to center the shaft.
and tires removed. 1. Axle Shaft
2. Axle Flange
6. Remove the drive axle stud nuts that attach the 3. Adjustable Wrench
axle shaft to the wheel hub.
Fig. 1, Installing the Axle Shaft
7. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, use the
DCDL switch in the cab to engage the lock. An 3.3 Use an adjustable wrench to center the
indicator light comes on when the differential lock shaft. Turn the shaft with a slight rotating
is engaged. Turn the appropriate wheels to en- motion.
3.4 Install the drive axle stud nuts and tighten
8. Tap the axle shaft flange if necessary to loosen it them to the values given.
and slide the axle shaft out of the axle. Remove
and discard the gasket. • 1/2–20 nuts: 75 to 115 lbf·ft (102 to
156 N·m)
Installation • 5/8–18 nuts: 150 to 170 lbf·ft (203 to
230 N·m)
1. Position a new gasket on the axle shaft flange. 4. If removed, install the rear wheels and tires.
2. If DCDL is installed on the vehicle, ensure it is Tighten the wheel nuts according to the proce-
engaged. dures in Group 40.
IMPORTANT: The wheel lock must be fully en- 5. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle.
gaged to prevent the possibility of damage to 6. As needed, replace any oil that was drained from
wheel lock components while the axle shafts are the hub when the axle shaft was removed.
being installed. 7. Remove the chocks from the front tires.
3. Install the axle shaft, as follows. See Fig. 1.
3.1 Carefully raise the axle with the floor jack,
and support the axle with jack stands.
Slide the axle shaft into the axle.
3.2 Apply light pressure with the hand or knee
to the axle flange.

Single or Rearmost Axle Yoke and Seal
Replacement, Model 4 Axles
Special Tools
Special tools are required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
Special Tools
Tool Description Manufacturer Part Number
Universal Handle* Kent-Moore J-8092

f580400
Rear Pinion Seal Installer* Kent-Moore J-47354
f580406
Yoke Nut Socket† Axle Alliance Special Tool DDE W742589020700
f580450
* To order Kent-Moore tools call 1-800-328-6657.

† The yoke nut socket is needed to remove the round, slotted yoke nut installed on some vehicles. It can be ordered through Paragon.
Table 1, Special Tools
Replacement 5. Install the rear pinion seal on the rear input shaft,
as follows. See Fig. 3.
1. Disconnect the driveshaft from the differential 5.1 Inspect the area around the seal for dam-
carrier. For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub- age. Use emery paper to remove
ject 120. Using suitable straps, support the end scratches, nicks, or burrs on the seal
of the driveshaft by attaching it to the frame rail. bore.
2. Remove the yoke nut from the center of the car- 5.2 Assemble the rear pinion seal installer
rier yoke. If the yoke nut is round and slotted, onto the threaded end of the universal
use the yoke nut socket shown in Table 1. See handle. See Table 1.
Fig. 1. Be careful not to damage the seal bore.
IMPORTANT: Be careful not to cock the seal
3. Remove the carrier yoke from the input shaft. during installation.
4. Pry up the seal, using a prybar or large screw-
5.3 Using the rear pinion seal installer assem-
driver. Clean any old sealant from the axle hous-
ing. Do not allow dirt or grease to contaminate bly, press the seal into the bore until the
the seal bore or shaft bearings. See Fig. 2. seal surface is flush with the bottom sur-
face of the counterbore.

Single or Rearmost Axle Yoke and Seal
Replacement, Model 4 Axles
6. Install the carrier yoke on the input shaft. If the

yoke is damaged or worn, install a new yoke. 1 2
NOTE: It is not necessary to replace the yoke

when replacing the seal.
3
7. Install a new M45 x 1.5 yoke nut on the carrier
yoke and tighten 627 lbf·ft (850 N·m).
8. Punch in the cylindrical area at the pinion groove
to lock the nut in place.
IMPORTANT: The bent area has to reach the
bottom of the pinion groove.
9. Connect the driveshaft. For instructions, see
Section 41.00, Subject 120.
05/05/2005 f350450
2
1. Input Shaft 3. Carrier Housing
2. Rear Pinion Seal
Fig. 2, Rear Pinion Seal

1
04/01/2008 f350496
NOTE: The yoke nut may be a hexnut rather than the
round, slotted nut shown here. 2
1. Yoke 2. Yoke Nut
Fig. 1, Yoke Nut on the Carrier

3
05/12/2005 f350448
1. Universal Handle
2. Rear Pinion Seal Installer
3. Carrier Housing
Fig. 3, Installing the Rear Pinion Seal

Forward-Rear Axle Removal and Installation
Removal 3. At both ends of the axle, loosen all the wheel

nuts.
For forward-rear axle components of a tandem instal- 4. Using a suitable jack, continue to raise the ve-
lation, see Fig. 1. hicle evenly until there is room to fit a stand un-
derneath the axle housing.
front tires. Put the transmission in neutral.
2. Using a suitable jack, raise the vehicle enough to
take the weight off the axles, but not enough to
raise the tires off the ground.
4
5
6
7
05/05/2005 f350456
1. Axle Shaft 4. Input Seal 6. Input Yoke Nut
2. Forward-Rear Axle Housing 5. Carrier Yoke 7. Forward Differential Carrier
3. Carrier Capscrew
Fig. 1, Forward-Rear Axle Components

18. Remove the brake shoes. For instructions, see

WARNING the applicable service brake section in
Group 42.
Never work around or under a vehicle that is sup-
ported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle 19. Remove the ABS sensors and wiring, and the
with safety stands. Jacks can slip, allowing the fasteners that hold the brake spiders to the axle
vehicle to fall, which could result in serious in- flanges. Remove the spiders from the axle.
jury or death. 20. If applicable, disconnect the leveling valve rod(s)
5. Support the vehicle with safety stands. from the suspension.
6. Remove the oil drain plug from the bottom of the 21. At the frame rail or crossmember, disconnect the
axle housing and drain the oil from the axle wiring for the ABS sensors. Remove any tie
housing. Install the drain plug after emptying. straps that hold the wires to the frame rails.
7. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. For in- 22. Disconnect the air lines from the rear brake
structions, see Group 40. chambers. Remove the brake air chambers and
the slack adjusters from the axle housing. For
8. Release the parking brakes.
9. If necessary, back off the slack adjusters. Then
23. Using a suitable jack, support the axle housing.
remove the brake drums.
24. If applicable, remove the hexnuts that hold the
10. If installed, make sure the optional DCDL (main
bottom of each suspension air bag to its suspen-
differential lock) has been shifted into the en-
sion bracket.
gaged (locked) position.
25. Remove the suspension components that attach
IMPORTANT: The wheel lock must be fully en- the axle to the vehicle. If applicable, remove the
gaged to prevent the possibility of damage to U-bolt nuts from the U-bolts. Discard the U-bolt
wheel lock components while the axle shafts are nuts and U-bolts.
being removed.
26. Lower the axle enough to clear the suspension
11. If not done previously, disconnect the air lines at components.
the interaxle lock and (if installed) the wheel lock.
27. Remove the axle from the vehicle.
12. Disconnect the main driveshaft from the forward
differential carrier. For instructions, see Sec- 28. If you are going to replace the differential carrier,
tion 41.00, Subject 120. Using suitable straps, place the axle on a secure axle stand.
support the end of the driveshaft by attaching it
to the frame rail. Installation
13. Disconnect the interaxle driveshaft from the out-
put yoke of the forward-rear axle, and the input 1. Position the axle underneath the vehicle.
yoke of the rearmost axle. For instructions, see 2. Install the suspension components that attach
Section 41.00, Subject 120. the axle to the vehicle, as follows.
14. Cage the parking brake springs to prevent the NOTE: U-bolts and U-bolt nuts cannot be
parking brakes from engaging. For instructions, reused.
see Group 42.
2.1 On vehicles with conventional suspen-
15. Drain the air system.
sions, install the upper U-bolt brackets,
16. Place a basin under the axle shaft flanges to new U-bolts, lower U-bolt brackets, and
catch any oil; then remove the axle shafts. For new U-bolt nuts.
On vehicles with air suspensions, in addi-
17. Remove the hubs from the axle spindles. For tion to the U-bolts, install the hexnuts that
instructions, see Section 35.01, Subject 100. attach the air springs to the suspension
brackets. For torque values, see
Group 32.

On vehicles without U-bolts, install the 16. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. For instruc-
walking beams. tions, see Group 40.
2.2 If applicable, tighten the new U-bolt nuts 17. Adjust the brakes. For instructions, see the appli-
in a diagonal pattern. For torque values, cable service brake section in Group 42.
see Group 32. 18. Uncage the parking brake springs.
3. Connect the interaxle driveshaft to the output 19. Using approved axle oil, fill the forward-rear axle
yoke of the forward carrier and the input yoke of housing to the bottom of the fill hole, or until
the rear carrier. For instructions, see Sec- filled to capacity as shown in Table 1.
4. Install the brake spiders on the axle flanges. For Forward-Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity
instructions, see the applicable service brake Capacity: quarts (liters)
section in Group 42. Approved Oil Type
Hubs Full Hubs Dry
5. Install the ABS sensors and connect the wiring at
the frame rail. Secure the wiring with tie straps 80W-90 Gear Oil
14.3 (13.5) 15.9 (15.0)
as needed. 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil
6. Install the brake air chambers and slack adjust- Table 1, Forward-Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity
ers on the axle housing brackets. For instruc-
20. Raise one side of the vehicle about 8 inches (20
7. Connect the air lines to the brake air chambers. cm) to let the oil flow into the hubs on the oppo-
8. Install the brake shoes, as removed. For instruc- site side, then raise the other side in the same
tions, see the applicable service brake section in manner.
Group 42. 21. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
9. If equipped with a wheel lock, engage the lock then lower the vehicle.
with air. 22. If applicable, connect the suspension leveling
valve(s). Start the engine, build the air pressure,
and make sure the suspension air bags inflate
gaged to prevent the possibility of damage to correctly. Make sure the ride height is correct.
wheel lock components while the axle shafts are For instructions, see Group 32.
being removed.
23. Check the operation of the wheel lock, if in-
10. Using new gaskets, install the axle shafts. For stalled.
24. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
11. Connect the main driveshaft to the forward input should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
yoke. For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub- approved axle oil, if needed.
ject 120.
25. Set the parking brake, then remove the chocks
12. Connect the air hoses to the air cylinder for the from the front tires.
interaxle lock and (if installed) the wheel lock.
13. Connect the electrical connector of the sensor
unit for axles equipped with a wheel lock.
14. Fill each hub with approved axle oil until you can
see a little amount of oil trickling out of the back
of the hub (fill with about 0.8 quart, or 0.75 liter).
Install the hubs on the axle spindles, and adjust
the wheel bearings. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 35.00, Subject 100. See Table 1 for ap-
proved axle oils.
15. Install the brake drums on the hubs.

Forward-Rear Axle Differential Carrier Removal
and Installation
For forward-rear axle components of a tandem instal- 8. Using a suitable jack, support the differential car-
lation, see Fig. 1. rier. Chain the differential carrier to the jack.
Do not disassemble either differential carrier. There
are no serviceable parts in the differential assembly; NOTICE
it must be replaced as a unit. However, it is possible
When using a pry bar, be careful not to damage
to remove the differential carrier to repair an oil leak,
the carrier or housing flange. Damage to these
or to remove the wheel lock (differential lock).
surfaces will cause oil leaks.
When the wheel lock is removed, inspect the carrier 9. Remove the differential carrier from the axle
for damage and replace it if damage is found. If no housing, as follows. See Fig. 1.
damage is found, install the carrier again.
9.1 If equipped with a wheel lock, engage the
lock with air. This will help separate the
Forward-Rear Axle Differential carrier from the axle housing.
Carrier 9.2 Remove all but the top two carrier cap-
screws.
Removal 9.3 Loosen and back off, but do not remove,
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down the top two carrier capscrews. The cap-
the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the screws will hold the carrier in the housing.
front tires. Put the transmission in neutral.
9.4 Using a pry bar, separate the mating sur-
2. If applicable, release the suspension air pres- faces of the forward differential carrier and
sure. axle housing.
3. Using suitable jacks, raise the vehicle evenly NOTE: Use a pry bar that has a round end
until there is room to fit a stand underneath the to help separate the carrier from the hous-
axle housing. ing.
4. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. For in-
9.5 When the surfaces are separated, remove
the top two capscrews.
axle housing and drain the oil from the axle 9.6 With the carrier on the jack, slide the car-
housing. Install the drain plug after emptying. rier away from the axle housing.
6. Disconnect the driveshaft from the carrier yoke. 9.7 Lift the carrier assembly onto a suitable
For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub- stand.
ject 120. Using suitable straps, support the end
of the driveshaft by attaching it to the frame rail. Installation
7. Place a basin under the axle shaft flanges to NOTE: Use a cleaning solvent and clean rags to
catch any oil; then remove the axle shafts. For remove dirt. Blow dry the cleaned areas with air.
1. Remove any old sealant material from the mating
surfaces of the axle housing. Clean the inside of
WARNING the axle housing and the carrier mating surface.
The differential carrier is heavy. Do not try to 2. Inspect the axle housing for damage. Repair or
move it without a suitable support. To do so replace the axle housing as necessary.
could result in the carrier falling, which could
3. Apply a thin bead of Loctite® 5900 sealant all the
cause serious personal injury and component
way around the mating surface of the axle hous-
ing, and around each bolt hole.
has been removed from the vehicle.

and Installation
4
5
6
7
05/05/2005 f350456
1. Axle Shaft 5. Carrier Yoke
2. Forward-Rear Axle Housing 6. Input Yoke Nut
3. Carrier Capscrew 7. Forward Differential Carrier
4. Input Seal
Fig. 1, Forward-Rear Axle Components
NOTE: Alignment dowels for installing the differ-

ential carrier can be made by sawing off the WARNING
heads of two M16 x 1.5 x 100 mm bolts. The differential carrier is heavy. Do not try to
4. Install alignment dowels 180 degrees apart at the move it without a suitable support. To do so
3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions on the axle could result in the carrier falling, which could
housing flange. cause serious personal injury and component
has been removed from the vehicle.

and Installation
5. Position the forward differential carrier in front of 8. Connect the driveshaft to the forward input yoke.
the axle housing, using an axle jack or other suit- For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub-
able lifting tool. ject 120.
6. If equipped with a wheel lock, engage the lock 9. Using new gaskets, install the axle shafts. For
with air. This will help the carrier assembly join instructions, see Subject 120.
the axle housing. 10. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. For instruc-
NOTICE 11. Using approved axle oil, fill the axle housing to
Do not use a hammer or a mallet to install the the bottom of the fill hole, or until filled to capac-
differential carrier. A hammer or a mallet will ity as shown in Table 1.
damage the mounting flange of the carrier and
cause oil leaks. Forward-Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity
7. Install the end caps at the sides of the forward Capacity: quarts (liters)
Approved Oil Type
differential carrier into the corresponding slots in Hubs Full Hubs Dry
the axle housing. See Fig. 2.
80W-90 Gear Oil
14.3 (13.5) 15.9 (15.0)
1 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil
Table 1, Forward-Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity
2
12. If the hubs are dry, raise one side of the vehicle
about 8 inches (20 cm) to let the oil flow into the
hub on the opposite side, then raise the other
side in the same manner. On each side, hold the
tilted position for three minutes to allow oil to run
3 into the wheel end.
NOTICE
Make sure the hubs are filled. Driving with the
hubs dry will cause bearing damage.
11/10/2004 f350438
1. Differential Carrier 13. Turn the wheels, wait one minute, and check the
2. End Cap Bolt lubricant level.
3. End Cap 14. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,
Fig. 2, Carrier End Caps
15. Start the engine, build the air pressure, and
7.1 For the last 3/4 inch (19 mm) or so of check that the suspension air bags inflate evenly
travel, walk the carrier slowly into the and correctly. Make sure the ride height is cor-
housing. rect.
IMPORTANT: The end caps fit tightly into the 16. Check the oil level in the axle housing. The level
axle housing. Be very careful not to cock the should be up to the bottom of the fill hole. Add
carrier. approved axle oil, if needed.
7.2 Install the carrier capscrews finger-tight. 17. Remove the chocks.
Make sure the carrier capscrews turn eas-
ily in the axle housing.
7.3 In a star pattern, gradually tighten the cap-

Thru-Shaft Repair
Repair 9. Insert the thru-shaft into its bore.

10. Install the outer bearing race onto the thru-shaft
1. Remove the output yoke nut, washer, and output and bore.
yoke; see Subject 170.
11. Install the snap ring and spacer. Use the next
2. Remove the output oil seal from the thru-shaft thicker snap ring from the snap ring pack sup-
bore; see Subject 170. plied with the bearings.
3. Remove the snap ring and spacer from the thru- 12. Install the output oil seal; see Subject 170.
shaft. See Fig. 1.
13. Install the output yoke, nut, and washer; see
Subject 170. Make sure the output yoke nut is
firmly tightened, but do not tighten the nut to
3 specifications at this time.
1
14. Attach a dial indicator to the flat surface of the
4 2 output yoke.
5
6 15. Using a pry bar or other lever, apply force to the
base of the output yoke. If the dial indicator
7 shows a deflection of 0.0012 to 0.0024 inches
8
9 (0.03 to 0.06 mm), the end play is correct.
10
11 If the deflection is too large, use a thicker snap
12 ring. If the deflection is too small, use a thinner
snap ring.
13 16. Coat the threads of the nut with Loctite® 577.
Tighten the output yoke nut 516 lbf·ft (700 N·m).
05/04/2005 f350451
1. Output Yoke Nut 8. Outer Bearing

2. Washer 9. Outer Bearing Cup
3. Output Yoke 10. Inner Bearing Cup
4. Output Oil Seal 11. Inner Bearing
5. Spacer 12. Inner Bearing Race
6. Snap Ring 13. Thru-Shaft
7. Outer Bearing Race
Fig. 1, Thru-Shaft Components
4. Using a suitable shaft puller, draw the thru-shaft

out of the bore.
5. Using a suitable bearing puller on the outer
races, remove both the inner and outer bearings
from the thru-shaft.
6. Inspect the bearings for wear and damage. Re-
place both bearings if any damage is found.
7. Install the inner bearing race in the thru-shaft
bore.
8. Using an arbor press or other suitable pressing
tool, press the bearings and bearing cups onto
the thru-shaft.

Forward-Rear Axle Yoke and Seal Replacement
Special Tools
Table 1.
Special Tools for Forward-Rear Axle Yoke and Seal Replacement


f580400
Input Seal Installer* Kent-Moore J-47369
f580410
Output Seal Installer* Kent-Moore J-47368
f580408
Yoke Nut Socket† Axle Alliance Special Tool DDE W742589020700
f580450

Table 1, Special Tools for Forward-Rear Axle Yoke and Seal Replacement
Replacement support the end of the driveshaft by attaching it

to the frame rail.
Forward Carrier Input Yoke and 2. Remove the input yoke nut and washer from the
center of the forward carrier input yoke.
Seal 3. Remove the old forward carrier input yoke from
1. Disconnect the main driveshaft from the forward the forward input shaft.
carrier input yoke. For instructions, see Sec-
4. If there is an oil leak at the threaded ring, repair
tion 41.00, Subject 120. Using suitable straps, it; for instructions, see Subject 200.

5. If there is a leak between the bearing cage and

the carrier housing, remove the bearing cage, as
follows. See Fig. 1.
3
4
2 5
1
1 2
3
7
01/21/2008 f350452a 04/01/2005 f350447
1. Forward Carrier Housing 1. Universal Handle 3. Carrier Housing

2. Bearing Cage Mounting Capscrew 2. Input Seal Installer
3. Input Yoke Nut
4. Input Shaft Fig. 2, Installing the Forward Carrier Input Seal
5. Bearing Cage
6. Interaxle Lock Bore 7.3 Using the input seal installer assembly,
7. Threaded Ring press the seal into the bore until the seal
surface is flush with the threaded ring.
Fig. 1, Bearing Cage
8. On the mating surface of the bearing cage, lay
5.1 Remove the bearing cage capscrews from down a bead of Loctite® 5900 sealant, or equiva-
the bearing cage. lent. Go around all of the bolt holes and other
openings in the inside cover of the bearing cage.
5.2 Pry the bearing cage from the forward car- See Fig. 3.
rier housing. Clean any remnants of seal-
ant clinging to the mating surfaces of the IMPORTANT: Do not allow sealant to get into
carrier housing and the bearing cage. the interaxle lock bore. See Fig. 4. Do not at-
6. Pry up the input seal, using a prybar or large
tempt to repair the interaxle differential lock
screwdriver. Clean any old sealant from the axle (IAD). No repairs to this component are pos-
housing. Do not allow dirt or grease to contami- sible.
nate the seal bore or shaft bearings. 9. Install the bearing cage onto the forward carrier
7. Install the seal in the input shaft bore, as follows. housing. Tighten the M12 bearing cage cap-
See Fig. 2. screws 107 lbf·ft (145 N·m).
7.1 Inspect the area around the seal for dam- 10. Install the forward carrier input yoke on the for-
age. Use emery paper to remove ward input shaft. If the yoke is damaged or worn,
scratches, nicks, or burrs on the seal install a new yoke.
bore. NOTE: It is not necessary to replace the yoke
7.2 Assemble the input seal installer onto the when replacing the seal.
threaded end of the universal handle. See 11. Coat the threads of a new M45 x 1.5 input yoke
Table 1. nut with Loctite® 277. Install the new washer and

12. Connect the main driveshaft; see Sec-

1 2 3 tion 41.00, Subject 120.
4
Output Yoke and Seal
1. Disconnect the interaxle driveshaft from the out-
put yoke; see Section 41.00, Subject 120.
Using suitable straps, support the end of the
driveshaft by attaching it to the frame rail.
2. Remove the output yoke nut and washer from
the center of the output yoke.
3. Remove the output yoke from the thru-shaft. See
Fig. 5.
06/21/2005 f350453
Apply a bead of sealant to the inner mating surface as
shown.
1. Inside Cover 3. Interaxle Lock Bore
2. Mounting Capscrew 4. Sealant 2
Hole 5. Mating Surface 3
Fig. 3, Sealant Application
4
1
05/05/2005 f350455
1. Output Yoke 3. Thru-Shaft
2. Output Yoke Nut 4. Axle Housing
Fig. 5, Output Yoke
4. Pry up the output oil seal, using a prybar or large

screwdriver. Clean any old sealant from the axle
housing. Do not allow dirt or grease to contami-
nate the seal bore or thru-shaft bearings.
5. Install the seal on the thru-shaft, as follows.
05/04/2005 f350454
5.1 Inspect the area around the output oil seal
for damage. Use emery paper to remove
Keep sealant away from this bore. scratches, nicks, or burrs on the seal
Fig. 4, Interaxle Lock Bore bore.
input yoke nut on the forward carrier input yoke.

Tighten the nut 627 lbf·ft (850 N·m).

5.2 Assemble the output seal installer onto the

threaded end of the universal handle. See
Table 1.
5.3 Using the output seal installer assembly,
press the seal into the bore until the seal
surface is flush with the thru-shaft recep-
tacle.
6. Install the output yoke on the thru-shaft. If the
yoke is damaged or worn, install a new yoke.
NOTE: It is not necessary to replace the yoke
when replacing the seal.
7. Coat the threads of a new M39 x 1.5 output yoke
nut with Loctite® 577. Install the new washer and
output yoke nut on the forward carrier output
yoke. Tighten the nut 516 lbf·ft (700 N·m).
8. Connect the interaxle driveshaft; see Sec-

Main Differential Lock Disassembly and
Assembly, Model 2 Axles
General Information 4. Remove the DCDL control switch.

5. Remove the differential lock cover (including the
Commonly known as DCDL (Driver-Controlled Differ- air interface connection).
ential Lock), a main differential lock is available on 6. Remove the gasket, piston, and adjustment
single and tandem rear axles. The following proce- screw.
dures only apply to Model 2 rear axles equipped with
the optional DCDL. 7. Unlatch the retaining clip, and remove it.
Each part of the main differential lock is replaceable. 8. Remove the clutch collar.
See Fig. 1. 9. Carefully remove the shift shaft from the bore in
the carrier housing.
1
10. Due to spring tension, carefully remove the shift
2 fork, spacer, and spring from the carrier housing.
3
4
Assembly
5 1. Install the spring in the carrier housing, and com-
6 press it to install the spacer and shift fork in the
7
housing. Ensure that the spring is centered in the
bore.
8
13 2. Install the shift shaft into the bore in the carrier
9 housing and through the shift fork, spacer, and
12
spring, being careful to properly align it in the
bore. Do not force the shift shaft into the bore.
11
3. Install the clutch collar, and secure it by installing
10
the retaining clip on the shift fork.
04/01/2009 f350499
4. Install the adjustment screw as follows.
1. Spring 8. Differential Lock
2. Spacer Cover 4.1 Press the shift shaft in until the clutch col-
3. Shift Fork 9. Capscrew lar teeth are fully engaged with the ring
4. Shift Shaft 10. DCDL Control Switch gear.
5. Adjustment Screw 11. Air Interface
(with locknut) Connection 4.2 Install the adjustment screw, and tighten it
6. Piston (with O-Ring) 12. Retaining Clip until the outer end of it is 0.02 – 0.06 inch
7. Gasket 13. Clutch Collar (0.5 – 1.5 mm) below the top of the bore
in the carrier housing. The screw ad-
Fig. 1, DCDL Components, Model 2 Axles vances 0.04 inch (1.0 mm) per full revolu-
tion, so one complete turn should be suffi-
Disassembly cient. Use an inside micrometer or depth
micrometer to measure the gap.
4.3 Hold the shift shaft and adjustment screw
in a fixed position, and tighten the locknut
front tires.
on the adjustment screw to 18 lbf·ft (24
2. Remove the differential carrier, and place it on a N·m).
work stand.
5. Grease the o-ring on the piston.
To remove a Model 2 axle differential carrier, see 6. Place the gasket on the differential lock cover,
Subject 110. and press the flat side of the piston into the dif-
3. Remove the capscrews that attach the differential ferential lock cover.
lock cover to the carrier housing. See Fig. 1.

7. Place the differential lock cover over the cap-

screw bores in the carrier housing, and install the
DCDL control switch. Tighten the nut 21 lbf·ft (28
N·m).
8. Install the differential lock cover, and in a regular
sequence that seats the cover evenly, tighten the
capscrews 18 lbf·ft (24 N·m).
9. Connect the DCDL air line, and engage the
DCDL. Ensure the teeth of the lock fully engage
the teeth of the gear inside the carrier housing.
10. Install the differential carrier; for instructions, see
Subject 110.

Special Tool
A special tool is required for this procedure. See
Table 1.
Special Tool for Main Differential Lock Disassembly and Assembly

Spring Compression Tool Axle Alliance Special Tool W742 589 00 16 00
f580448
Table 1, Special Tool for Main Differential Lock Disassembly and Assembly
General Information Disassembly

Commonly known as DCDL (Driver-Controlled Differ- 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, shut down
ential Lock), a main differential lock is available on the engine, set the parking brake, and chock the
single and tandem rear axles. On tandem rear axles front tires.
DCDL is available for the forward, rear, or both axles.
2. Remove the differential carrier, and place it on a
The following procedures only apply to Model 4 rear work stand.
axles with optional DCDL.
Each part of the main differential lock is replaceable. To remove a single or rearmost axle differential
See Fig. 1. carrier, see Subject 110.
To remove a forward-rear differential carrier, see
Subject 150.
3. Unlatch the retaining clip, and remove it. See
12
Fig. 1.
1 4. Remove the clutch collar.
2 3 5. Remove the DCDL sending unit from the carrier
5 housing.
6 6. Remove the three bolts that attach the air inter-
4 7 face to the carrier housing.
8 7. Remove the air interface and gasket.
9
01/22/2008 10 11 f350495 8. Remove the shift shaft piston from the bore in
1. Capscrew 7. Spring the carrier housing, and note the number of
2. Air Intake 8. Fork shims found on the piston. There should be at
3. Air Interface Gasket 9. Alignment Boss least one shim, and a maximum of three.
4. Sending Unit 10. Snap Ring
5. O-Ring 11. Clutch Collar
9. Using the spring compression tool (see Table 1),
6. Shift Shaft Piston 12. Retaining Clip compress the spring and pull the shift fork from
the carrier housing.
Fig. 1, DCDL Components, Model 4 Axles 10. Remove the spring from the carrier housing.

Assembly
1. Install the spring in the carrier housing, and,
using the spring compression tool, compress it to
install the shift fork in the housing. Ensure that
the spring is centered in the bore.
2. Ensure the O-ring on the shift shaft piston is
properly installed and lubricated. Then install the
piston, being careful to properly align it in the
bore. Do not force the piston into the bore.
3. Place the air interface and gasket over the air
interface bore, and insert the three capscrews
that attach the air interface to the carrier hous-
ing. Tighten the capscrews in a regular sequence
that ensures it seats evenly. Tighten the cap-
4. Install the clutch collar.
5. Install the retaining clip on the shift fork.
6. Install the DCDL sending unit in the carrier hous-
ing, as removed.
7. Connect the DCDL air line, and engage the
DCDL. Ensure the teeth of the lock fully engage
the teeth of the gear inside the carrier housing.
8. The clearance between the clutch collar and ring
gear must be between 0.4 and 1.4 mm. Engage
the DCDL, and use a feeler gauge to measure
the gap.
If the gap between the clutch collar and ring gear
measured between 0.4 and 1.4 mm, ensure the
same number of shims are on the shift shaft pis-
ton (as when it was removed).
If the gap between the clutch collar and ring gear
was not between 0.4 and 1.4 mm, add or re-
move shims to vary the gap until it measures
within the acceptable range. The acceptable
maximum number of shims is three, and the
minimum is one.
9. Install the differential carrier.
For instructions on installing a single or rearmost
axle differential carrier, see Subject 110.
For instructions on installing a forward-rear axle
differential carrier, see Subject 150.
10. Remove the chocks.

Interaxle Differential Lock Adjustment
Adjustment
The Interaxle Differential (IAD) has an adjustment
screw that can become loose or even fall out, caus-
ing an oil leak, and malfunction of the IAD. To ensure
the adjustment screw is properly tightened and se- 1
cured, follow the steps below. The IAD is sometimes
called the power divider. See Fig. 1.
1. Chock the front tires.
2. Use the IAD switch in the cab to engage the
lock.
3
3. Using a suitable jack, raise the vehicle until the 2
tires are off the ground.
4. Support the vehicle with safety stands.
5. At the forward-rear axle, rotate one of the wheels
to ensure the teeth of the lock fully engage the 01/21/2008 f350494
teeth of the gear inside the carrier housing.
1. Carrier Housing 3. Adjustment Screw
6. Remove the adjustment screw, and using a suit- 2. Lock Nut
able solvent (such as brake cleaner), clean the
threads of the screw and bore. Dry the surfaces Fig. 1, Interaxle Differential and Adjustment Screw
completely, making sure no cleaning solvent re-
mains.
7. Coat the threads of the adjustment screw with
Loctite® 577, install it, and hand-tighten it until it
hits the shaft.
8. Disengage the IAD to relieve the air pressure
exerted on the adjustment screw.
9. Hand-tighten the adjustment screw one quarter
turn, then tighten the locknut 30 lbf·ft (41 N·m).
10. Raise the vehicle, remove the safety stands,

Threaded Ring Repair
Special Tools
Table 1.
Special Tools for Threaded Ring Repair


f580400
f580410
Table 1, Special Tools for Threaded Ring Repair
Repair
1. Apply the parking brakes, shut down the engine,
and chock the tires. 3
2
carrier input yoke. For instructions, see Sec-
tion 41.00, Subject 120. Using suitable straps,
support the end of the driveshaft by attaching it
to the frame rail.
3. Remove the yoke nut and washer from the input 4
shaft of the forward differential carrier, then re-
move the yoke. 5
4. Remove the capscrew and the locking plate from
the bearing cage on the front of the differential 1
carrier. See Fig. 1. 09/15/2006 f350472
5. Using a spanner wrench, remove the threaded 1. Bearing Cage
ring to expose the bearing cavity. See Fig. 2. 2. Threaded Ring
3. Input Shaft (yoke removed)
6. Using a suitable solvent, such as brake cleaner, 4. Capscrew
clean the surface of the bearing cavity. See 5. Locking Plate
Fig. 2. Dry the surface, making sure no cleaning
solvent remains. Fig. 1, Forward-Rear Axle Differential Housing
7. Coat the threads of the threaded ring with Loc-
then spread the sealant evenly over the threads,
tite® 577 sealant. Apply a 1/8-inch (3-mm) diam-
so that all threads are thoroughly covered with
eter bead all the way around the bottom thread,
the sealant.

9. Install the old yoke nut on the input shaft to pro-

tect the threads, then strike the nut sharply with
A a brass mallet to unseat the bearing.
10. Adjust the initial bearing preload to 0.002 inch
(0.05 mm), as follows:
10.1 Install a dial indicator on the bearing cage,
and using two pry bars, pry up evenly on
the yoke nut (and the input shaft) to deter-
mine the bearing preload. See Fig. 4.
09/18/2006 f350468
A. Clean and dry this entire surface. 2
Fig. 2, Bearing Cavity Exposed
8. Install the threaded ring (without the new input-

shaft seal) and turn it clockwise (tighten it)
enough to form a uniform bead of sealant all the
way around the threaded ring. See Fig. 3.
09/18/2006 f350473
1. Dial Indicator 2. Old Yoke Nut
Fig. 4, Measuring Bearing Preload
10.2 Tighten the threaded ring until the dial in-

1
dicator reads 0.002 inch (0.05 mm).
A
11. Using a suitable marker or paint, mark the center
of one of the teeth on the threaded ring and the
surface of the bearing cage. See Fig. 5.
09/14/2006 f350470 IMPORTANT: The next step is critical. Tighten-
A. Loctite Bead from the Threads ing the threaded ring by advancing it one tooth
will set the bearing preload to 0.00 to 0.0012
1. Threaded Ring
inch (0.00 to 0.03 mm). If you tighten the
Fig. 3, Preliminary Installation of the New Threaded
threaded ring beyond this tolerance, you cannot
Ring back it off; you will need to remove the threaded
ring and repeat the entire installation procedure.

09/14/2006 f350471 09/14/2006 f350469

A. Measure preload at this point. At final tightening,
Fig. 5, Marking the Tooth and Bearing Cage this mark should be opposite the center of the next
tooth, but no further.
12. Very carefully advance the threaded ring one
tooth while checking the paint mark. Stay close
Fig. 6, Advancing the Threaded Ring
to a one-tooth advancement when making the
final adjustment. Bear in mind that the new lock-
ing plate must fit into place once the correct
tightness is achieved. The locking tab should fit
in place either slightly before or slightly past a
one-tooth advancement of the threaded ring. You
cannot back off the threaded ring once it is tight-
ened.
Try fitting the new locking plate in place by turn- 1
ing and flipping it over as you slowly tighten the
threaded ring. Tighten the threaded ring so the
bearing preload is 0.00 to 0.0012 inch (0.00 to
0.03 mm). When the correct tolerance is
reached, the mark on the surface of the bearing
cage should line up with the center of the next
tooth. See Fig. 6. Do not tighten the threaded 2
ring any further.
3
13. When the bearing preload is correct, install the
new locking plate and capscrew. Tighten the cap-
screw 18 lbf·ft (24 N·m).
04/01/2005 f350447
14. Install the new input-shaft seal as follows (see
1. Universal Handle (Kent-Moore tool, J-8092)
Fig. 7): 2. Input Seal Installer (Kent-Moore tool, J-47369)
14.1 Inspect the area around the seal for dam- 3. Carrier Housing
age. Use emery paper to remove
scratches, nicks, or burrs on the seal Fig. 7, Installing the Forward Carrier Input Seal
bore. 14.4 Assemble the input shaft seal installer
14.2 Apply a light coating of axle oil to the seal onto the threaded end of the universal
bore. handle. See Fig. 7.
14.3 Coat the mating surfaces of the new seal
with Loctite® 5900 sealant, or equivalent.

14.5 Using the input shaft seal installer assem-

bly, press the seal into the bore until the
seal surface is flush with the threaded
ring.
15. Apply Loctite 242 to the threads of the new yoke
nut, then using it and a new washer, install the
existing yoke on the input shaft. Tighten the yoke
nut 628 lbf·ft (850 N·m).
16. Connect the main driveshaft to the input shaft.
For instructions, see Section 41.00, Sub-
ject 120.
17. Remove the chocks.

Interaxle Differential Replacement
The following on-vehicle procedure replaces the in-

teraxle differential (IAD) assembly and accomplishes
a minor carrier rebuild by replacing the bearing races
and, as needed, the shift shaft bushing. The front
cover is resealed and the input shaft seal is re-
placed. See Fig 1.
Special Tools
Table 1.
17
18 16
15
14
19 12
11
20 13
21
22
10
4 9
3 8
2
1 7
6
11/02/2011 f350514
1. Yoke Nut 9. Piston Spring 16. IAD Adjustment Screw
2. Washer 10. Shift Fork 17. Output Bearing Race
3. Input Shaft Seal 11. Shift Shaft Bushing 18. IAD Assembly
4. Threaded Ring 12. Shift Shaft Bushing O-ring 19. Clutch Collar
5. Bearing Cage Capscrews 13. Cover Plate 20. Input Bearing Race
6. Bearing Cage 14. Carrier Housing 21. Locking Plate
7. Shift Shaft Piston O-ring 15. Locknut 22. Locking Plate Capscrew
8. Shift Shaft Piston
Fig. 1, The Interaxle Differential and Carrier Housing Components

Special Tools for Interaxle Differential Replacement

Output Bearing Remover and

Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 420589003300
Installer
f580478
Shift Shaft Bushing Remover

and Installer
f580480
Slide Hammer Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 060589003300
f580476
Half-Moon Device Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 420589006300
f580479
Push-Pull Device Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 420589001600
f580477

Special Tools for Interaxle Differential Replacement

Shift Shaft Piston Installer Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 420589023300
f580481
Table 1, Special Tools for Interaxle Differential Replacement
Replacement
front tires.
2. Ensure the interaxle differential is disengaged
and the system is charged with air. The rear
wheels will need to turn near the end of this pro-
cedure.
3. Place a suitable strap around the driveshaft and
frame to hold the driveshaft out of the way after
it is disconnected.
carrier input yoke (for instructions, see Sec-
tion 41.00, Subject 120), and support it with the
strap.
5. Clean the carrier housing and surrounding area
as needed to remove any debris that could enter
the housing.
6. Drain the oil from the carrier housing.
07/15/2010 f350515
7. Disconnect the air line connected to the bearing
cage. Fig. 2, Tapping the Bearing Cage Loose
8. Remove the yoke nut and washer from the input 12. Remove the IAD adjustment screw and locknut.
shaft of the forward differential carrier, then re-
move the yoke.
9. Remove the capscrew and the locking plate. See
NOTICE
Fig 1. When unseating the shift shaft piston, multiple
10. Using a spanner wrench, remove the threaded taps may be needed, but use moderate force only
ring by turning it counterclockwise. and be careful to hit the piston only (not the
housing). Stop tapping it once it protrudes from
11. Remove the bearing cage capscrews from the the housing. The use of excessive force, or tap-
bearing cage, and pry the bearing cage from the ping it while it protrudes from the housing can
carrier housing. It may help to tap the bearing damage the piston and the housing.
cage loose with a chisel; see Fig. 2.

13. Using a brass or plastic mallet, squarely tap the

shift shaft piston to unseat it, and then remove it
from the carrier housing.
14. Remove the piston spring, clutch collar, and shift
fork.
NOTICE
The IAD assembly is heavy. Use appropriate sup-
port while removing and transporting it to pre-
vent dropping and damaging it. Do not allow it to
rest on the oil slinger; see Fig. 3. Resting the IAD
assembly on the oil slinger could damage the oil
slinger.
07/15/2010 f350517
15. Remove the IAD assembly.
Fig. 4, Removing the Output Bearing Race
1
2
07/15/2010 f350516 3
Fig. 3, Oil Slinger
16. Align the output bearing remover (see Table 1)

with the notches in the rear of the carrier hous-
ing, then attach it to the housing with bearing 08/04/2010 f350526
cage capscrews, and use it to remove the output 1. Shift Shaft Bushing
bearing race. See Fig. 4. 2. Shift Shaft Bushing Remover
3. Slide Hammer
17. If the brass shift shaft bushing is damaged or
worn, assemble the slide hammer and shift shaft
Fig. 5, Installing the Bushing Remover
bushing remover (see Table 1), and slide the
hammer handle to remove the bushing. See 19. As in the previous step, clean the groove at the
Fig. 5. piston bushing bore.
18. Using a suitable solvent (such as brake cleaner), 20. If the brass shift shaft bushing was removed, in-
clean any remaining sealant from the threaded stall a new one using a mallet and the Shift Shaft
ring and mating surfaces of the carrier housing Bushing Installer. See Fig. 6.
and the bearing cage. Dry the surfaces with
compressed air, ensuring no cleaning solvent 21. A new output bearing race is included with the
remains. new IAD. Install it as follows.
21.1 To get it started, lightly tap the race into
place with a hammer handle or wood

block. The race must be square in the stalled, slight jerks can be felt and heard.
housing or damage will occur when it is See Fig. 8.
pressed. See Fig. 7.
22. Lubricate the output gear and bearing of the new
IAD assembly with white grease.
2
1
08/04/2010 f350527
1. Shift Shaft Bushing Installer

2. Shift Shaft Bushing
Fig. 6, Installing the Bushing
07/15/2010 f350519
Fig. 8, Pressing a New Race into the Housing
23. Install the IAD assembly and output gear. Do not

allow the assembly to rest on the oil slinger.
24. Install the clutch collar and shift fork.
25. Apply a thin film of white grease to the shift shaft
piston, and insert it with the piston spring into the
housing until about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the piston
protrudes from the bore.
26. The half-moon device (see Table 1) helps align
the shift fork and shift shaft piston. To install it,
slide it between the oil slinger and the shift fork.
See Fig. 9.
27. Install the shift shaft piston as follows.
27.1 The shift shaft piston installer (see
Table 1) is designed to install the piston
07/15/2010 f350518 without damaging it or the carrier housing.
Use two bearing cage capscrews to mount
Fig. 7, Setting the Race it to the carrier housing. See Fig. 10.
21.2 Fasten the output bearing installer to the 27.2 Adjust the hex screw until the shift fork is
carrier housing, and use it to press the snug but not bound.
race into the housing. As the race is in-

27.4 Once the piston is seated, remove the

shift shaft piston installer and the half-
moon device.
28. Remove the input bearing race from the bearing
cage. Place the new race into the cage so that it
is more forward than in the final position. As the
preload is adjusted, the race will seat to its final
position.
29. Apply Loctite® 577 sealant to the threads of the
threaded ring and tighten it until it is snug
against the race.
IMPORTANT: Do not overapply sealant. Do not
allow sealant to enter the oil return or touch the
shift shaft piston.
30. Apply a small bead of Loctite 5900 to the carrier
housing. See Fig. 11. To help ensure a good
seal, spread it uniformly over the surface area.
07/19/2010 f350520
Fig. 9, The Half-Moon Device, Installed

1
1
08/04/2010 f350521
1. Capscrews 2. Hex Screw 08/31/2010 f350522a
1. Oil Return 2. Shift Shaft Piston
Fig. 10, Shift Shaft Piston Installer, Mounted
Fig. 11, Sealant Applied to Carrier Housing
27.3 In a single movement of moderate force,
use the lever of the installer to press the 31. Install the bearing cage, and using a star pattern
piston into the bore until only about 1/8 to tighten the capscrews to 103 lbf·ft (140 N·m).
1/16 inch (2 to 3 mm) of the piston pro-
32. The push-pull device (see Table 1) is used to set
trudes from the carrier housing. When the
pre-load on the input bearing. Remove the two
piston seats, a "click" sound may be au-
upper capscrews from the cover plate and install
dible. If the piston does not seat readily,
the device as shown in Fig. 12.
adjust the hex screw, and try again.
33. Set the correct end play as follows.

07/16/2010 f350523 07/21/2010 f350524
Fig. 12, Push-Pull Device, Installed Fig. 13, Dial Indicator and Push-Pull Device
33.1 Set up a dial indicator as shown in

Fig. 13.
33.2 Turn the input shaft three revolutions and
tighten the threaded ring until there is be-
tween 0.002 and 0.003 inch (0.05 and
0.08 mm) of end play. Turn the input shaft
three more revolutions and verify the mea-
surement.
33.3 When there is between 0.002 and 0.003
inch (0.05 and 0.08 mm) of end play, align
a mark on the threaded ring with one on
the bearing cage. See Fig. 14. 07/19/2010 f350525
33.4 Tighten the threaded ring almost one
notch. Fig. 14, Threaded Ring and Bearing Cage, Marked
IMPORTANT: Do not loosen the threaded tion that fits best, install it, and tighten the
ring. If the threaded ring is loosened, the capscrew 18 lbf·ft (24 N·m).
bearing cage must be removed and the race 33.6 Remove the push-pull device and dial indi-
re-installed. cator, and install the the two upper cap-
screws on the cover plate. Tighten the
33.5 The locking plate has six positions that capscrews 63 lbf·ft (85 N·m).
can lock the threaded ring. Find the posi-

34. Install a new input shaft seal and the yoke, nut,
and washer; see Subject 170 for instructions.
35. Clean, install, and adjust the IAD adjustment
screw and locknut as follows.
35.1 Clean the IAD adjustment screw and lock-
nut with a suitable solvent (such as brake
cleaner). Dry the cleaned surfaces, ensur-
ing no solvent remains.
35.2 Connect an air line at the interaxle lock.
35.3 Apply air, and by hand, turn the input shaft
to ensure the gear cogs fully engage.
35.4 Coat the threads of the adjustment screw
with Loctite® 577.
35.5 Install the adjustment screw, with the lock-
nut, into the carrier housing, and
handtighten the screw until it touches the
engaged shift shaft piston.
35.6 Disengage the IAD to relieve the air pres-
sure exerted on the adjustment screw.
35.7 Hand-tighten the adjustment screw one
quarter turn, then tighten the locknut 30
lbf·ft (41 N·m).
36. Connect the main driveshaft; for instructions, see
Section 41.00, Subject 120.
Forward-Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity

Capacity: quarts (liters)
Approved Oil Type
Hubs Full Hubs Dry
80W-90 Gear Oil
14.3 (13.5) 15.9 (15.0)
75W-90 Synthetic Gear Oil
Table 2, Forward-Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity
38. To lubricate the wheel ends, tilt the axle to the

left and right by jacking the opposite side 8
inches (20 cm). Hold the tilted position for two
minutes on each side to allow oil to run into the
wheel end. Return the axle to a level position,
and add oil through the axle housing filler hole.
About two more pints (1 liter) of lubricant will be
needed to bring the oil level even with the base
of the filler hole.

Specifications
Torque Values
Application Size Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Freightliner Axles (all models)
M12 115 (156)
Carrier Capscrews
M16 200 (270)
1/2–20 75–115 (102–156)
Drive Axle Stud Nuts
5/8–18 150–170 (203–230)
Pinion Nut (model 2 axles) M40 x 1.5 370 (500)
Pinion Nut (model 4 axles) M45 x 1.5 627 (850)
Tandem Forward Axles (Model 4 only)
Bearing Cage Capscrews M12 107 (145)
Input Yoke Nut M45 x 1.5 627 (850)
Output Yoke Nut M39 x 1.5 516 (700)
Table 1, Torque Values
Single Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity

Approved Oil Type Capacity: quarts (liters)
Model
Model 2 5.8 (5.5) 7.4 (7.0)
80W-90 75W-90
Model 4 10.6 (10.0) 12.2 (11.5)
Table 2, Single Rear Axle Oil Type and Capacity
Special Tools for Freightliner Rear Axles


f580400
Rear Pinion Seal Installer* Kent-Moore J-47354
f580406

Specifications

f580410
Output Seal Installer* Kent-Moore J-47368
f580408
Yoke Nut Socket† Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 742589020700
f580450
Output Bearing Remover and

Installer
f580478
Shift Shaft Bushing Remover

and Installer
f580480
Slide Hammer Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 060589003300
f580476

Specifications

Half-Moon Device Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 420589006300
f580479
Push-Pull Device Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 420589001600
f580477
Shift Shaft Piston Installer Axle Alliance Special Tool MBA 420589023300
f580481

Table 3, Special Tools for Freightliner Rear Axles

Wheels and Tires 40.00
General Information
General Information
The tires support the weight of the vehicle, and are
integral parts of the transmission and braking sys-
tems. The wheels serve as load carrying members
between the tires and the axle.
Only hub-piloted disc wheels are used on Business
Class M2 vehicles. Standard eight-hole and optional
ten-hole disc wheels consist of a rim and disc. The
rim, the portion of the wheel on which the tire is
mounted and supported, is welded to the disc
(Fig. 1). After the tire is mounted on the wheel, the 05/13/94 f400029a
assembly is held in place on the hub with two-piece
flange nuts. Fig. 2, Radial Ply Tire Construction
IMPORTANT: Review and follow these require-

2
ments for matching and mixing tires, before in-
stalling any tire and wheel or rim assembly on a
1 vehicle.
Before changing wheels and tires, consider the effect
that the change may have on the Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating (GVWR) of the vehicle. At the time of
vehicle certification, the GVWR is calculated by add-
ing the vehicle’s Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR).
The GVWR and each of the GAWRs are shown on a
certification label (U.S.-purchased vehicles) or "State-
ment of Compliance" label (Canadian-purchased ve-
05/13/94 f400036a hicles) attached to the left rear door post. See Fig. 3.
1. Disc 2. Rim
1 3
Fig. 1, Disc Wheel
Only radial tires are used on Business Class M2 ve-

hicles. Radial tires have ply cords that run from bead
to bead, and at a right angle to the belt plies and tire 11/14/2001 2 f080118
tread (Fig. 2). The belt plies constrict the radial ply 1. Date of Manufacture
cords and give rigidity to the tread. 2. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
3. Gross Axle Weight Rating
Tire body plies and belt plies are made of polyester,
rayon, nylon, fiberglass, steel, or aramids (fibrous
Fig. 3, Certification Statement, U.S.
reinforcements). In radial ply tires, these materials
are used in various combinations, including steel Tire and rim labels (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4) certify the
body/steel belt, polyester body/fiberglass belt, or minimum tire and rim combinations that can be in-
nylon body/steel belt. stalled on the vehicle for the given GAWRs. Each
Wheels and tires operate either with or without tubes. GAWR is determined by considering each compo-
Tube-type tires require a tube and flap for correct nent of the axle system, including suspension, axle,
assembly on a two-or three-piece rim. Tubeless tires wheels, and tires. The lowest component’s capacity
require only the tire, and a one-piece drop-center is the value used for the system. Therefore, the tires
wheel or rim. See Fig. 1. and rims installed on the vehicle at the time of ve-
hicle manufacture may have a higher load capacity
than that certified by the tire and rim label. Tires and

40.00 Wheels and Tires
General Information
rims of the minimum capacity can be installed with-

out changing the load limitations. If tires and rims are
installed that have a lower load capacity than that 1
shown on the tire and rim label, then the tires and
rims determine the load limitations (the GAWRs and
GVWR will be lower).
1 2
05/13/94 f400028a
11/14/2001 f080119
1. Endless Pi Tape
NOTE: Examples only. Actual specifications may vary
from vehicle to vehicle.
Fig. 5, Endless Pi Tape
1. Gross Weight Rating by Component
2. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating By Component in
Vehicle as a Whole
Fig. 4, Tire and Rim Labels
When pairing tires in a dual assembly, the tire diam-

eters must not differ by more than 1/4 inch (6.4 mm),
or the tire circumference by more than 3/4 inch (19
mm). The total tire circumference of one driving rear
axle must match, as nearly as possible, the total tire
circumference of the other driving rear axle.
1
CAUTION
Mismatching dual tires overloads the larger diam-
eter tire, causing it to overdeflect and overheat. 05/13/94 f400089a
The smaller diameter tire, lacking proper road 1. Square
contact, wears faster and unevenly. Tread or ply
separation, tire body breaks, and blowouts can Fig. 6, Square
occur from mismatched duals.
single tire and wheel. Operating in this manner
With an endless pi tape (Fig. 5) or square (Fig. 6), can cause damage to the wheel and tire.
measure the diameter of the tires 24 hours after in-
flation. A matching stick (Fig. 7), string gauge Inflate all tires on an axle, or on both axles of a tan-
(Fig. 8), or tire straight edge (Fig. 9) can also be dem unit, to within 5 psi (35 kPa) of one another. For
used to determine the difference in tire radius, which tire inflation specifications, see Specifications, 400.
is then doubled to calculate the diameter difference. There must be sufficient space between dual tires for
When pairing tires of unequal diameters (but within air to flow and cool the tires, and to prevent them
the above limits), mount the larger tire on the out- from rubbing against one another. Rims and wheels
side. of the same size, but of different makes and types,
can have different offsets, which would affect dual
spacing. If there is sidewall contact between tires, or
CAUTION between the inside tire and the chassis, refer to the
Driving a vehicle on one tire of a dual assembly tire manufacturer’s catalog to determine the minimum
dangerously exceeds the carrying capacity of the dual spacing. Refer to the rim or wheel manufactur-
er’s catalog to determine the correct offset.

General Information
CAUTION
Mixing radial and bias ply tires should be done
as an emergency measure only. Some loss of
steering control and premature tire wear could
occur when driving under such conditions.
Better tire and vehicle performance is usually ob-
tained by using tires of the same size and construc-
tion. Using tires of different construction is permitted
if the following rules are observed:
• Do not mix radial and bias ply tires on the
same axle.
05/13/94 1 f400088a
• If both radial and bias ply tires are used, better
1. Matching Stick handling is usually obtained by using the bias
ply tires on the front axle.
Fig. 7, Matching Stick
• Use either all radial or all bias ply tires on the
non-driving rear axles of a vehicle. However,
all radial or all bias ply tires must be used on
1 vehicles with tandem drive-axles.
05/13/94 f400038a
1. String Gauge
Fig. 8, String Gauge
05/13/94 f400087a
1. Tire Straight Edge
Fig. 9, Tire Straight Edge
Federal Motor Carrier Safety regulations require the

removal of all tires with less than 4/32 inch (3 mm)
remaining groove depth on a front axle, and tires
with less than 2/32 inch (1.5 mm) remaining groove
depth on a rear axle. However, tires with the word
"Regroovable" on the sidewall, may be regrooved.

Disc Wheel Removal and Installation
Removal 2. Apply a few drops of light engine oil to the wheel

studs and the area between the body and the
flange of each two-piece flange nut. See Fig. 1.
1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Shut down
Wipe off any excess oil.
the engine.
2. To prevent vehicle movement, chock all tires that
will not be serviced. If removing the front wheels 1
A
and tires, apply the parking brake.
3. Raise the end of the vehicle until the tires clear
the floor. Place safety stands under the axle be-
ing serviced.
4. If the tire or wheel is damaged, or if there is rea- 2
son to suspect damage, deflate the tire (or tires,
on a dual assembly) being serviced by removing
the valve core.
5. Turn the wheel until one hub-pilot pad is in the
top-center position. 3
6. Leaving the top and bottom nuts until last, re-
move the other two-piece flange nuts.
08/20/93 f400051a
7. Place a jack or wheel-and-tire dolly under the NOTE: Apply oil here.
wheel assembly being serviced. Remove the top 1. Flange
and bottom nuts. 2. Nut Threads
3. Nut Body
CAUTION Fig. 1, Lubricating a Two-Piece Flange Nut
The wheel center hole and hub pilot have close
tolerances. If the wheel is not kept square to the CAUTION
hub, it could bind during removal and damage
the stud threads or pilot pads. Keep the wheel The wheel center hole and hub pilot have close
square to the hub during removal. tolerances. If the wheel is not kept square to the
hub, it could bind during installation and damage
IMPORTANT: On both sides of the vehicle, the the stud threads or pilot pads. Keep the wheel
two-piece flange nuts have right-hand metric square to the hub during installation.
threads.
IMPORTANT: Before installing the wheels, make
8. Remove the wheel. Do not let it drop on or drag sure the drum is positioned on the raised step
across the stud threads. of the pilot pad. One of the hub’s pilot pads
must be at the top location. To help keep the
Installation drum in place, it may be necessary to apply the
brakes before installing the wheels.
NOTE: Before installing a wheel and tire assem- 3. Locate one hub-pilot pad in the top-center posi-
bly, inspect it using the instructions in Sub- tion. Using a jack or wheel-and-tire dolly, position
ject 120. Follow the tire matching and mixing the wheel assembly (inner wheel assembly on
requirements in Subject 050. duals) on the hub. Make sure the wheel is
1. Clean the hub and wheel mounting surfaces, and square to the hub and that the threads are not
all disc faces of dual wheels. Make sure the tire damaged by contact with the wheel during instal-
is correctly inflated. For instructions, see Sub- lation. On dual assemblies, mount the outer
ject 130. wheel against the inner wheel using the same
procedure.

4. Make sure the hub-pilot pad is still centered at

the top. 1
IMPORTANT: Install the wheel assembly so that 10 8
the balance weight(s) on the wheels are 180
degrees opposite the balance weight(s) on the 3 6
brake drum. If this causes the valve stems to be
in the same wheel hole on the rear wheel as-
semblies, mount the outer wheel so that the
5 4
outer wheel balance weight(s) is on the same
side as the brake drum balance weight(s).
7 9
5. Install and hand-tighten a two-piece flange nut
on the top and bottom studs.
2
08/20/93 f400080a
CAUTION Fig. 3, 10-Stud Disc Wheel Tightening Sequence
The two-piece flange nuts have right-hand metric

threads. Do not try to install a similar size SAE
WARNING
nut on a stud or the stud and nut will be dam- If the wheel nuts cannot be tightened to minimum
aged. torque values, the studs could be turning in the
6. Install and hand-tighten the remaining two-piece hub flange, having lost their locking ability. In
flange nuts. Tighten the nuts 50 lbf·ft (68 N·m) this case, the wheel hub assembly is damaged
following the sequence in Fig. 2 or Fig. 3. and must be replaced with a new assembly.
Failure to reach minimum torque values could
A also be caused by stripped threads on the wheel
1 2 studs or wheel nuts. Damaged parts must be re-
placed with new parts. Failure to replace dam-
aged parts could result in the loss of a wheel or
7 4 loss of vehicle control, causing property damage
or personal injury.
IMPORTANT: Replace damaged parts following
the instructions in Group 33 or Group 35.
5 6 9. Remove the safety stands, lower the vehicle and
remove the chocks.
10. After operating the vehicle for 50 to 100 miles
3 8 (80 to 160 km), retighten the wheel nut 450 to
08/20/93 f400052a 500 lbf·ft (610 to 678 N·m). Follow the sequence
A. Top in Fig. 2 or Fig. 3.
Fig. 2, 8-Stud Disc Wheel Tightening Sequence
CAUTION
7. Check that the wheel is correctly seated against
the hub and on the hub-pilot pads. Too little wheel nut torque can cause wheel
shimmy, wheel damage, stud breakage and ex-
8. Following the sequence in Fig. 2 or Fig. 3, treme tire tread wear. Too much wheel nut torque
tighten the two-piece flange nuts 450 to 500 lbf·ft can break studs, damage threads and crack discs
(610 to 678 N·m). in the stud hole area. Use the specified torque
values and follow the tightening sequence in
Fig. 2 or Fig. 3.

IMPORTANT: The two-piece flange nuts seat

during vehicle operation. It is necessary to peri-
odically tighten the wheel nuts to the specified
torque. Tighten the two-piece flange nuts to the
specified torque 50 to 100 miles (80 to 160 km)
after service work and check the torque every
10,000 miles (16 000 km).

Wheel and Components Inspection
Inspection
WARNING
Inspect the tires and wheels, and correct any
problems. Failure to do so could cause tire or rim
damage while servicing or while in use. An incor-
rectly mounted tire can burst causing personal
injury and equipment damage.
Examine the wheel or rim, and all parts. Remove any
grease, dirt, or rust. Using a wire brush, remove any 1 1
rubber from the bead seat. Use special care when 05/16/94 f400030a
cleaning the rim gutter. Rust or other foreign matter 1. Crack
can prevent the correct fitting of side rings. Replace
corroded parts. Paint the rim to prevent corrosion. Fig. 2, Cracked Wheel and Rim
Sprung or broken rings (Fig. 1), a cracked rim, wheel
(Fig. 2), or brake drum, damaged inner or outer
wheel nuts (Fig. 3), or an out-of-round wheel or rim,
requires the replacement of the damaged part. Re-
place the wheel if it has out-of-round stud holes.
05/16/94 f230014a
Fig. 3, Damaged Outer Wheel Nut
A
01/20/93 1 2 f400086a
1. Sprung Side Ring 2. Broken Side Ring
05/16/94 f400078a
Fig. 1, Sprung and Broken Side Rings A. End of wedge must be at least 1/16-inch (1.5-mm)
thick.
NOTE: Refer to Group 33 and Group 35 for
inspection and service procedures for the hub, Fig. 4, Rim Clamp
wheel studs, wheel, and brake drum assem-
rim spacer must not be bent, distorted, or crushed.
blies.
Replace all damaged or broken parts.
Inspect valve cores for cracks, bends, and air reten- Do not attempt to rework, weld, heat, or braze any
tion. Replace damaged or leaky cores.
rim or wheel parts that are cracked, broken, or dam-
Check the clamps, rim spacer, rim studs, and wheel aged. Use new parts or parts that are not cracked,
nuts for damage or wear. The clamps must not be broken, or otherwise damaged, and that are of the
excessively worn. The end of the wedge portion must same size and type.
be at least 1/16-inch (1.5-mm) thick. See Fig. 4. The

Wheel and Components Inspection
Remove all foreign matter, such as grease and dirt,

from the wheel mounting surface. Smooth any pro-
jections on the mounting surface to ensure even
pressure when tightening the wheel nuts.

Tire and Components Inspection
Inspection on the same size rim as the one from which it was
removed. Michelin Tire Corporation recommends us-
ing only new tubes, flaps, valve cores, caps, and
WARNING O-rings in a new mounting.
Inspect the tires and wheels, and correct any

problems. Failure to do so could cause tire or rim
damage while servicing or while in use. An incor-
rectly mounted tire can burst, causing personal
injury and equipment damage.
Inspect the inside and outside of the tire for out-of-

roundness, loose cords, cuts, foreign objects, and
other damage. Repair as needed. Contact the tire
manufacturer for repair procedures.
Do not repair tires with the following problems:
• Cuts in the tread that are wire or breaker fiber
deep.
• Tread worn to the wire or breaker fibers.
• Tread that is scalloped or otherwise worn un-
evenly.
• Visible, broken, deformed, or otherwise dam-
aged bead wires.
• Deteriorated rubber.
• Rubber cracked to the wire or cord.
• Separations in the casing.
• Exposed cord (for example, due to weather
checking or sidewall scuffing).
Inspect the tread for abnormal or excessive wear.
Refer to Troubleshooting, 300 for possible causes
of abnormal wear. If the tires are wearing irregularly,
they should be rotated. If the front axle tires become
irregularly worn, they should be moved to the drive
axle(s) or trailer axles. The front-end alignment
should be checked. In a dual assembly, if one tire
wears faster than its mate, the position of the two
tires should be reversed. See Group 40 of the Busi-
ness Class M2 Maintenance Manual for tire rotation
procedures.
Government regulations require the removal of any
tire with less than 2/32-inch (1.5-mm) tread remain-
ing. Retread the tire (if possible), regroove it (only if
marked "Regroovable" on the sidewall), or discard it.
Clean and inspect the tube and flap of tube-type
tires. Discard tubes or flaps that are buckled or
creased. Do not use an old tube in a new tire, and
always mount a used flap in the same size tire and

Tire Inflation
Tire Inflation
1. Check all parts to make sure they are correctly
seated prior to inflation.
NOTE: Inflate tires in a safety cage (Fig. 1) or
an approved portable restraining device. Always
use a clip-on chuck with an inline valve and
gauge. Make sure the inflation hose is long
enough to permit standing to the side of the tire
during inflation. Never sit on or stand in front of
an assembly that is being inflated.
WARNING
During initial tire inflation, there is the possibility
of an explosion of the assembly. Observe the fol-
lowing safety rules to reduce the possibility of
serious physical injury in the event of an explo-
sion.
IMPORTANT: Inflate tires immediately after
mounting, before the tire lubricant dries. Once
the lubricant dries, bead positioning is not pos-
05/16/94 f400023a
sible, even with increased inflation pressure.
Water in the tire can cause ply separation. Dur- Fig. 1, Safety Cage
ing tire inflation, air tank reservoirs and lines 3. If there are no problems with the assembly at 10
must be dry. Use well-maintained air line mois- psi (69 kPa), continue to inflate the tire to the
ture traps, and service them regularly. recommended pressure. See Specifica-
2. After placing the tire in a safety cage, or an ap- tions, 400 for correct cold inflation pressures.
proved portable restraining device, inflate the tire Michelin Tire Corporation recommends an initial
to 10 psi (69 kPa). Check the parts for correct inflation pressure of 90 to 100 psi (620 to 690
seating. If the seating is not correct, completely kPa) to correctly seat the tire beads.
deflate the tire and correct the problem. Never NOTE: The position of the beads, flap, and tube
attempt to seat rings or other parts by hammer- with 4 to 5 psi (28 to 35 kPa) pressure is shown
ing on an inflated or partially inflated tire. in Fig. 2. The tube is fully rounded-out within
IMPORTANT: Due to the different flex character- the tire, but there isn’t enough pressure to move
istics of radial sidewalls, it may be necessary to the beads on wide-base rims. Depending on the
use an inflation aid to help seat tubeless tire tire size and rim condition, from 20 to 40 psi
beads: (140 to 275 kPa) pressure is needed to push
• Metal rings, which use a blast of com- the beads onto the bead seat. See Fig. 3.
pressed air to seat the beads. 4. After the initial inflation, completely deflate the
tire by removing the valve core. This ensures
• Rubber rings, which seal between the tire
correct bead seating, and prevents buckling or
bead and rim, allowing the bead to move overstretching the tube in tube-type tires. Then
out and seat correctly. A well-lubricated, inflate the tire to the recommended cold inflation
heavy-duty bicycle tube can be used to pressure listed in Specifications, 400. Install the
help seal between the tire bead and rim. valve caps and tighten them finger-tight.

Tire Inflation
ger of cuts, snags, and punctures. Overinflation

1 1
will overstress and damage the rims. Driving on
underinflated tires will generate excessive heat.
This weakens the tire body, and reduces tire
2
strength.
WARNING
05/16/94 3 f400074a Inflate tires to the specified pressure. Tire under-
inflation or overinflation will damage wheels and
1. Tapered Bead Seat
2. Flap
tires, and could result in a blowout, causing pos-
3. Valve Base sible personal injury and property damage.
5. Check the inflation pressure 24 hours after
Fig. 2, Position of Beads, Flap, and Tube at 4 to 5 psi mounting new tires.
(28 to 35 kPa)
NOTE: When testing a vehicle on a dynamom-
eter, severe tire damage can occur. Because
1 1 the manufacturers differ in their recommenda-
tions for preventing tire damage, refer to the
manufacturer’s instructions for testing a vehicle
2 on a dynamometer.
05/16/94 3 f400073a
1. Tapered Bead Seat
2. Flap
3. Valve Base
Fig. 3, Beads Pressured Onto the Bead Seat
CAUTION
Improperly inflating tube-type tires can crack or
tear the edge or inside of the valve base. Once
seated, the tube can stretch only in the rim area.
Because resistance to stretch is greatest at the
valve base, there is often enough tension to
break the tube at the edge of the valve base or in
the valve base.
IMPORTANT: Use tires of the same size, type,
and capacity to carry the load at the recom-
mended cold pressure. Attempting to increase
the load capacity of a tire by overinflation will
damage the tire assembly.
NOTE: Inflate the tires to the recommended
pressure. Driving on overinflated tires will
weaken the cords by reducing their ability to
absorb road shocks, and will increase the dan-

Tire Demounting and Mounting Service Precautions
Service Precautions These tools must be smooth, and used with

care, to avoid gouging the rim.
• Loosening tire beads may be difficult, since
WARNING considerable force may be needed. The use of
Read the following information. Failure to follow a machine designed for loosening tire beads is
the safety precautions, before and during tire de- recommended.
mounting and mounting, could cause tire or rim • Handle the wheels and rims on a wooden floor
damage while servicing or in use. An incorrectly or rubber mat to prevent nicking or gouging
mounted tire can burst causing personal injury the wheel or rim.
and equipment damage.
• Do not use a duck-bill hammer, or any steel
IMPORTANT: Don’t mount or demount tires hammer on wheel or rim parts. Use rubber,
leather-faced, or plastic mallets to tap parts
without proper training as required in Occupa- together, if necessary.
tional Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)
Rules and Regulations 1910.177, Servicing • Lubricate the tire with an approved tire-
Multi-Piece and Single Piece Rim Wheels. Ser- mounting lubricant. Never use antifreeze, sili-
vice information containing mounting and de- cones, petroleum-based lubricants, or any
flammable material (ether/starting aid).
mounting instructions are available through your
rim supplier. Charts detailing service procedures • When lubricating a tire prior to mounting, make
are available through OSHA area offices. The sure excess lubricant does not run into the tire.
address and telephone number of the nearest • Michelin Tire Corporation recommends apply-
OSHA area office can be obtained by looking in ing lubricant to the valley of the tire, formed by
the local telephone directory under U.S. Govern- the tire and rim, before using tools to break the
ment, Labor Department of Occupational Safety bead.
and Health Administration. • Michelin also recommends applying a sufficient
Use the information from the above sources with the but sparing amount of lubricant to the entire
following precautions before and during the demount- rim face when mounting a tire on a rim, to en-
ing and mounting of tires: sure correct bead seating and ease of mount-
ing.
• Examine all wheel and tire parts as explained
in Subject 110 and Subject 120. Replace • Don’t reinflate a tire that has been run flat or
damaged, rusted, or worn parts. has been run at 80 per cent or less of its rec-
ommended operating pressure. Use your
• Since wheels and rims are under stress, and spare. Before removing the low tire from the
are dangerous if improperly assembled, be vehicle, make sure it is completely deflated.
sure all parts of an assembly match in size, Later, have the assembly taken apart and all
manufacturer, and classification within a manu- the parts checked for damage, including the
facturer’s line. Before assembling the wheel or side or lockrings.
rim, check the catalog issued by the wheel or
rim manufacturer for the correct part numbers • The air pressure contained in a tire is danger-
and sizes of approved parts. Never use a part ous. When servicing a tire, stay out of any po-
that does not bear clear, legible, and correct tential path or route that a rim wheel compo-
numbers and manufacturer’s identification, nent may travel during an explosive
even if that part appears to fit. separation.
• Make sure that tires are stored indoors, or out-
doors under cover, to prevent water collecting
inside the tire.
• Use special tools, as recommended by tire
suppliers, for mounting and demounting tires.

Demounting and Mounting Tubeless Tires
WARNING
Read the information in Subject 140. Failure to
follow the precautions, before and during tire de-
mounting and mounting, could cause tire or rim
damage while servicing or in use. An incorrectly
mounted tire can burst causing personal injury
and equipment damage.
Five Degree Full Drop Center

To demount or mount tubeless tires on 5 degree full
drop center rims, regular or safety type, follow the
same procedures used to demount or mount tube-
less automobile tires.
05/13/94 f400003a
Fifteen Degree Tapered Drop Fig. 1, Loosening the Beads
Center
Demounting
1. Deflate the tire being serviced by removing the
valve core. Check the valve stem by running a
piece of wire through the stem to make sure it is
not plugged.
2. Loosen both beads from the rim by driving the
flat end of the tire tool between the tire bead and
the rim flange. Holding the tool upright, hammer
on the neck to free the tire bead from the rim
(Fig. 1). Repeat at 8-inch (20 cm) intervals
around the flanges, until both beads are free
from the rim.
3. Place the wide side of the rim down. Lubricate
the tire bead and the rim. Insert the curved end 05/13/94 f400004a
of two tire tools between the bead and the rim,
and just to one side of the tire valve. Step on the Fig. 2, Forcing Bead into the Rim Well
side of the tire, opposite from the valve, to force
the first bead into the rim well (Fig. 2). Hold one tool and use a rocking or bouncing action to pry
of the tools in place with your foot and pry with the rim out of the tire. See Fig. 3.
the second tool, forcing the bead over the rim 5. Clean and inspect all parts. See Subject 110
flange. Continue to work the first bead off of the and Subject 120 for procedures.
rim.
4. When the first bead is off the rim, and the sec- Mounting
ond bead is in the rim well, stand the assembly
upright with the valve stem near the top. Lubri- 1. Place the valve stem, with a rubber washer,
cate the second bead and rim. Insert the straight through the valve hole from the tire side of the
end of the tool between the tire bead and the rim. Screw on the valve nut from the opposite
back rim flange, hooking the tool over the sec- side. Make sure the rubber bushing and metal
ond flange. Lean the tire assembly toward the

3. Lay the tire on the rim. If there is a balance mark

on the tire, line up this mark with the valve stem.
Push the lower bead over the flange and into the
rim well. Using the straight end of the tire tool
(with the stop resting on the rim flange), take
small bites to work the remaining section of the
bead into the rim. See Fig. 5.
05/13/94 f400005a
Fig. 3, Prying the Rim Out of the Tire
collar or nut are centered and fit snugly in the

valve hole (Fig. 4). Tighten the nut securely.
05/13/94 f400007a
Fig. 5, Working the Lower Bead into the Rim
4. Start the upper bead over the rim flange and into
the rim well by standing on the tire. If necessary,
push a section of the bead into the rim well, and
anchor it by attaching Vise-Grip® pliers to the rim
flange (snub side toward the tire). Using the
spoon end of the tire iron, with the stop toward
the rim, work around the bead (Fig. 6). Use
small bites until the bead slips over the flange
and into the rim well. If necessary, insert a sec-
ond tire iron and relubricate the last 8 inches (20
cm) of bead.
05/13/94 f400006a 5. Inflate the tire. See Subject 130 for procedures.
Fig. 4, Valve Stem Installation
2. Place the rim on the floor with the wide side

down. Using a brush or swab, lubricate both
bead seats (flanges) of the rim, and both tire
beads, with an approved lubricant. Apply enough
lubricant to enable correct bead seating, and to
make mounting easier. Don’t let excess lubricant
run inside the tire.

05/13/94 f400008a
Fig. 6, Working the Upper Bead into the Rim

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting Tables
Problem—Abnormal Tire Wear
Problem—Abnormal Tire Wear
Tires are not inflated to the correct Operate the tires at the recommended inflation pressure and use the proper
pressure size tires, wheels, and rims for the load to be carried. See
Specifications, 400.
Inflation pressures in a dual assembly are Inflate all tires to a uniform pressure, within 5 psi (35 kPa). See
unequal. Specifications, 400 for the proper cold inflation pressures.
Dual tires are mismatched. Examine all tires and match them according to the specifications in this
section.
The vehicle is vibrating severely. Follow the recommendations under "Vehicle Vibration" in this chart.
The brakes are grabbing. Examine and adjust the brakes. See Group 42 for instructions.
Axles are improperly aligned. Align the axles. See Group 33 and Group 35 for instructions.
Wheel bearings are loose or damaged, or Examine, and repair or replace the wheel bearings. See Group 33 and
bushings are excessively worn. Group 35 for instructions.
Wear is uneven among tire sets. Rotate the tires. See Group 40 of the Business Class M2 Maintenance
Manual for instructions.
The driver is abusing the equipment. Caution the driver.
Problem—Vehicle Vibration
Problem—Vehicle Vibration
Axles are improperly aligned. Align the axles. See Group 33 and Group 35 for instructions.
Wheels, rims, or tires are out-of-round, Replace damaged components.
bent, or distorted.
Tires, wheels, rims, or brake drums are Determine the out of balance component and balance.
out-of-balance.
Tire beads are not properly seated. Demount and mount the tire. Make certain adequate lubrication is used and, if
necessary, use an inflation aid to help seat tubeless tire beads.
Rim spacers are worn or distorted. Replace the rim spacers.
Driveline, suspensions, or steering Determine the location of the vibration, then repair or replace the loose or
components are loose or worn. worn components.
Problem—Excessive On-the-Road Tire Failures

Tires are not inflated to the correct Operate the tires at the recommended inflation pressure and use the proper
pressure. size tires, wheels, and rims for the load to be carried. See
Specifications, 400.
Dual tires are mismatched. Examine all tires and match them according to the specifications in this
section.

Troubleshooting

Water or foreign material is inside the Clean and dry the tires and tubes prior to mounting. Make sure excess
casing. lubricant does not flow down into the tire. Store unmounted tires indoors, or
under cover, to prevent moisture from collecting inside.
Tires are contaminated with oil. Clean the tires and inspect the engine seals, transmission seals, axle-end and
drive axle seals, oil filters and oil lines for leakage. Make sure the lubricant
used in mounting does not contain a petroleum derivative.
The vehicle is vibrating severely. Follow the recommendations under "Vehicle Vibration" in this chart.
Wheel or rim components are Check the catalog issued by the applicable wheel or rim manufacturer for the
mismatched. proper part numbers and sizes of approved components. Make sure that all
parts of an assembly match in size, manufacturer, and classifications within a
manufacturer’s line. Never use a component which does not bear clear,
legible, and proper numbers and manufacturer’s identification, even if it
appears to fit.
Parts are corroded, worn, or otherwise Clean or replace parts as necessary.
damaged.

Specifications
Tire Pressure wheel manufacturer for the correct tire inflation

pressure for the vehicle load. If the load ex-
Do not reduce the pressure of a hot tire if it exceeds ceeds the maximum rim or wheel capacity, the
the specified pressure. In normal driving, tire tem- load must be adjusted or reduced.
perature and inflation pressure increase. Increases of For further information on rims and tires (other than
10 to 15 psi (70 to 105 kPa) are common. Higher Michelin), and for inflation and load limits, refer to the
pressures may be signs of overloading, underinfla- "Tire and Rim Association Yearbook."
tion, excessive speed, improper tire size, or any
combination of these factors, and must be checked For further information on Michelin tires, refer to the
when the tire is cool. Michelin web site, www.michelin.com. A connection
to the Internet is required.
IMPORTANT: The load and cold inflation pres-
sure must not exceed the rim or wheel manu-
facturer’s recommendations, even though the Disc Wheel Fastener Torque
tire may be approved for a higher load or infla- Values
tion. Some rims and wheels are stamped with a
maximum load and maximum cold inflation rat- For torque values for disc wheel fasteners, see
ing. If they are not stamped, consult the rim or Table 1.
Disc Wheel Fastener Torque

Description Nut Size Wheel Manufacturer Torque (dry threads): lbf·ft (N·m)
8-Hole and 10-Hole Disc Wheels With Inner and Outer Nuts
Front Wheel Nut 1-1/8–16 Accuride 450–500 (610–680)
Rear Wheel Inner Nut 3/4–16 Accuride 450–500 (610–680)
Rear Wheel Outer Nut 1-1/8–16 Accuride 450–500 (610–680)
Wheel Stud Retainer Nut 3/4–16 Accuride 175–200 (235–270)
Table 1, Disc Wheel Fastener Torque

Driveline Components 41.00
General Information
General Information Driveline Configurations

The specific type and number of drivelines used on
The simplest driveline consists of a transmission
each vehicle depends on its number of transmis-
output-shaft end-yoke, an axle input-shaft end-yoke,
sions, its number of drive axles, and its wheelbase.
and a single slip-jointed driveshaft connecting the
See Fig. 2. A driveline is used between each driving
two end-yokes. See Fig. 1. The driveshaft is made
and driven component. A driveline connecting a main
up of a universal joint (U-joint), a sleeve-yoke, a
transmission (or an auxiliary transmission) to a single
splined stub shaft, a driveshaft tube, a tube-yoke,
drive axle or forward-rear axle of a dual-drive vehicle
and a second U-joint.
is always referred to as a No. 2 driveline. See Fig. 2,
examples A, B, C, D, and E. An interaxle driveline of
a dual-drive vehicle is always called a No. 3 drive-
15
14
13
16
3
8 9
7 12
11
1
2
10
6
5
4
3
05/01/95 f410067b
NOTE: Not all fasteners are shown.
1. Transmission 6. U-Joint Cross 11. Dust Cap
2. Transmission Output-Shaft End- 7. Bearing Cup (for half-round 12. Splined Stub Shaft
Yoke (half-round) yoke) 13. Driveshaft Tube
3. U-Joint Assembly 8. Bearing Strap and Bearing-Strap 14. Tube-Yoke (full-round)
4. Bearing Plate Self-Locking Capscrew 15. Axle Input-Shaft End-Yoke (half-
Capscrew 9. Slip-Joint Assembly round)
5. Bearing Cup (for full-round yoke) 10. Sleeve-Yoke (full-round) 16. Rear Axle
Fig. 1, Components of a Basic Driveline

41.00 Driveline Components
General Information
line. See Fig. 2, examples B and C. A driveline con- A long driveshaft, supported only at its ends, will sag
necting a main transmission to an auxiliary transmis- in the middle from its own weight. When turning at
sion is always referred to as a No. 1 driveline. See high rpm, it will flex, causing an out-of-balance vibra-
Fig. 2, example C. tion. Therefore, vehicles having a long wheelbase
1 2 3
A
1 2 5
B 4
6
1 8
7 2 5
C 4
6
1 2 3
D 10
9 11
1 2 3
E
10 10
9 12 11
09/14/95 f410069a
1. Main Transmission 5. No. 3 Driveline 9. Primary Coupling Shaft
2. No. 2 Driveline 6. Rearmost Axle 10. Midship Bearing
3. Rear Axle 7. No. 1 Driveline 11. No. 2 Driveshaft
4. Forward-Rear Axle 8. Auxiliary Transmission 12. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
Fig. 2, Driveline Configurations

General Information
use a midship bearing, mounted on a frame cross- 1

member, for additional support. See Fig. 2, example
D. This allows the No. 2 driveline to be separated
into two, shorter shafts (a coupling shaft and a No. 2 2
driveshaft), thus improving balance and stability. 3
Vehicles having an even longer wheelbase use two 4 5 6
crossmember-mounted midship bearings, allowing 3 3 5
the No. 2 driveline to be separated into three short
shafts, joined by four U-joints. See Fig. 2, example 4
E. The first shaft is the primary coupling shaft, the 3 8
9
second is the intermediate coupling shaft, and the 10 7
third is the No. 2 driveshaft.
10
Slip-Joints, U-Joints, and Yokes 11
11 5
The basic function of the driveline is to send torque 7
from the transmission to the axle in a smooth and 5
6 2
continuous action. Because the vehicle axles are not 05/01/95 f410066b
attached directly to the frame, but are suspended by
1. Bearing-Plate Capscrews
springs, they ride in an irregular, floating motion 2. Bearing Cup (for full-round yoke)
(when going over bumps or depressions), thus 3. Bearing-Strap Capscrew
changing the distance between the transmission (or 4. Bearing Strap
coupling shaft) and the rear axle, and the distance 5. Bearing-Cup Seal
between the rear axles. The slip-joints of the No. 2 6. Bearing Cup (for half-round yoke)
and No. 3 driveshafts, by expanding and contracting, 7. Bearing Needles
allow for length changes between drivetrain compo- 8. U-Joint Cross
nents. Coupling shafts do not require a slip-joint. 9. Grease Fitting
10. U-Joint Cross Slinger
Motion of the rear axle(s) also causes changes to the 11. Trunnion
relative angles between drivetrain components.
U-joints allow transfer of torque from an output shaft Fig. 3, Typical U-Joint
(or coupling shaft) to the driveshaft, and from the
driveshaft to an input shaft, even though the angles equipment, all No. 2 driveline end-yokes are half-
between the shafts may be constantly changing. round, with full-round optional. And, as standard
equipment, all No. 3 driveline end-yokes are full-
Each U-joint consists of a cross with a close- round, with half-round optional. End-yokes are in-
tolerance ground cylindrical surface (trunnion) at the stalled on the transmission output shaft, on each axle
end of each of the four arms. Installed on each trun- input and output shaft, and behind the midship bear-
nion is a bearing cup lined with bearing needles. All ing of most coupling shafts. See Fig. 4, items 2, 7,
bearing cups are sealed to retain lubricants, and to 12, and 14.
prevent entry of foreign material. See Fig. 3. In op-
eration, the four bearing cups are held stationary in a Meritor 17T and 18T U-joints are coupled to half-
pair of yokes, while the U-joint cross pivots on its round end-yokes by capscrews inserted through
trunnions. semicircular bearing straps that hold the bearing
cups in place under tabs in the yoke cross-holes.
Full-round yokes are installed at the front of coupling See Fig. 5.
shafts and at both ends of the No. 2 and No. 3 drive-
shafts. All tube-yokes (yokes that are welded into Meritor RPL Series U-joints are coupled to half-round
driveshaft tubes) and all sleeve-yokes (yokes that are end-yokes by capscrews inserted through the bear-
part of the internally splined half of slip-joints) are ing cups. See Fig. 6.
full-round yokes. See Fig. 4, items 4 and 9. U-joints are installed in full-round tube-yokes, sleeve-
An end-yoke is an internally splined yoke, held on an yokes, and end-yokes, by inserting the cross through
externally splined shaft by a locknut. As standard from the inside of both yoke cross-holes, then install-

General Information
8
4
6
5
4 13 14
3
1 7
2
12
4 3
11
10
9
3
6
4
7
15
10
9 12
3 16
05/01/95 f410068b
1. Transmission 7. Coupling Shaft End-Yoke (half- 12. Axle Input-Shaft End-Yoke (half-
2. Transmission Output-Shaft End- round) round)
Yoke (half-round) 8. Intermediate Coupling Shaft 13. Forward-Rear Axle
3. U-Joint Assembly Tube 14. Axle Output-Shaft End-Yoke
4. Full-Round Tube-Yoke 9. Sleeve-Yoke (full-round) (half-round)
5. Primary Coupling Shaft Tube 10. Slip-Joint Assembly 15. No. 3 Driveshaft Tube
6. Midship Bearing Assembly 11. No. 2 Driveshaft Tube 16. Rearmost Axle
Fig. 4, Dual-Drive Installation With Primary and Intermediate Coupling Shafts
ing the bearing cups into the outsides of the yoke self-locking capscrews are installed into the yoke to
and over the ends of the trunnions. Snap rings or secure the cups. See Fig. 7.

General Information
3
2 3
1
4
6
5
4
3
2
05/02/95 1 f410072b 2
1. Bearing-Strap 4. U-Joint Cross
Capscrew 5. Half-Round Yoke 1
2. Bearing Strap 6. Yoke Cross-Hole Tab
3. Bearing Cup 08/11/95 f410154
1. Bearing-Plate Self-Locking Capscrew

Fig. 5, Coupling of a U-Joint With a Half-Round End- 2. Bearing Cup (bearing-plate-type)
Yoke 3. Full-Round Yoke
4. U-Joint Cross
3 Fig. 7, Installation of a U-Joint in a Full-Round Yoke
The U-joint working angle is the angle formed by the

intersection of the driveshaft centerline and the ex-
tended centerline of the shaft of any component (or
other driveshaft) to which the U-joint connects. See
5 Fig. 8. Because the double oscillating motion of a
U-joint that connects angled shafts causes a fluctuat-
1 2 4 ing speed difference between the shafts, the effect
created by the U-joint at one end of the shaft must
cancel the effect created by the U-joint at the other
12/09/97 f410178 end. This is done by making U-joint working angles
1. Capscrew 4. Half-Round Yoke at both ends of the driveshaft approximately equal,
2. Bearing Cup 5. Yoke Cross-Hole Tab with the U-joints in phase. If the yoke lugs at both
3. U-Joint Cross ends of the shaft are lying in the same plane (a
plane that bisects the shaft lengthwise) the U-joints
Fig. 6, Coupling of a RPL Series U-Joint will be in phase. See Fig. 9.
U-Joint Angles, Phasing, and NOTE: Some driveshafts are designed and
phased with their end yokes clocked 90 degrees
Driveline Balance from each other. This is referred to as cross
Correct U-joint working angles, U-joint phasing, and phasing.
driveline balance are vital to maintaining a quiet- After manufacture, each driveline yoke is statically
running drivetrain and long life of drivetrain compo- balanced. After assembly, each driveshaft and cou-
nents (including driveline components).

General Information
1
2 4
3 3
5
11/28/94 f410073a
1. Transmission 4. Rear Axle
2. No. 2 Driveshaft 5. Extended Centerlines
3. U-Joint Working Angles
Fig. 8, U-Joint Working Angles
pling shaft is checked for out-of-roundness, straight-

ened as necessary, then dynamically balanced.
Avoiding Driveline Problems

To ensure that U-joints turn in phase, sleeve-yokes,
splined shafts, coupling shaft end-yokes, and cou-
pling shafts, should be marked for assembly refer-
A
ence before disassembly. A misaligned slip-joint will
seriously affect driveline balance (and U-joint phas-
ing). Even if a slip-joint is assembled 180 degrees
from its original position (which will keep the U-joints
in phase), the dynamic balance of the driveshaft will
be negatively affected.
A driveline can become unbalanced or greatly weak-
ened if a driveshaft has been dented, bent, twisted,
or otherwise damaged. Operating a vehicle at
B speeds that exceed the speed of the driveshaft’s de-
sign specifications will cause an out-of-balance vibra-
tion. Any condition that allows excessive movement
of a driveshaft will cause driveline imbalance: loose
end-yoke nuts, loose midship bearing mounts, loose
U-joint bearing cup retaining capscrews, worn U-joint
trunnions and bearings, and worn slip-joint splines.
Among the most common causes of U-joint and slip-
C joint damage is lack of lubrication.
To keep a vehicle operating smoothly and economi-
cally, the driveline must be carefully checked and
05/21/2008 f410525 lubricated at regular intervals. For inspection and lu-
A. In Phase (parallel phased) brication intervals and procedures, see Group 41 of
B. In Phase (cross phased) the Business Class M2 Maintenance Manual.
C. Out of Phase
Fig. 9, U-Joint Phasing

U-Joint Uncoupling and Coupling With a Half-Round
End-Yoke
U-Joint Uncoupling CAUTION

NOTE: It is easier to check driveline parts, and Do not expose the U-joint trunnions or bearing-
to replace a U-joint or midship bearing assembly cup needles to dirt or grit. The smallest bits of
if the driveshaft is removed from the vehicle. If a dirt or grit can cause rapid wear and serious
driveshaft requires straightening or balancing, it damage to the U-joint.
must be removed, and installed on a lathe or a
balance machine. Removal is required for re- U-Joint Coupling
placement of slip-joint parts, a driveshaft tube,
or a tube-yoke. To remove the driveshaft, see 1. Check and clean the end-yoke.
Subject 120. 1.1 Check the torque on the end-yoke nut.
NOTE: Many service operations do not require See Specifications 400.
driveshaft removal from the vehicle: end-yoke 1.2 Check the end-yoke cross-holes for burrs
nut tightening; drive component shaft seal or or raised metal. Using a half-round file,
end-yoke replacement; changing U-joint phasing remove burrs or raised metal. See Fig. 3.
at the slip-yoke; and transmission or axle re-
1.3 Using fine emery cloth, smooth and clean
moval (for overhaul, repair, or replacement). To the entire surface of the yoke cross-holes
perform these operations, uncouple the U-joint and bearing straps. See Fig. 4.
at the applicable end of the appropriate drive-
shaft. 1.4 Turn the end-yoke until its cross-holes
are horizontal. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2.
1. Roll the vehicle forward or backward as needed 2. Check, clean, and lubricate the U-joint.
to turn the rearmost end-yoke (of the driveline
that is being uncoupled) until the centerline 2.1 Remove the bearing-cup retaining wire or
through its cross-holes is horizontal. See Fig. 1, safety wire. See Fig. 1, Ref. C.
Ref. A and Ref. B.
2. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. CAUTION
3. If the half-round bearing cups do not already Do not expose the U-joint trunnions or bearing-
have a retaining wire installed, install a bearing- cup needles to dirt or grit. The smallest bits of
cup retaining wire. See Fig. 1, Ref. C. Or, install dirt or grit can cause rapid wear and serious
safety wire from the retaining-wire groove of one damage to the U-joint.
half-round bearing cup to the other.
4. Support the driveshaft with a nylon support strap. the outside surfaces of both bearing cups.
See Fig. 5.
When uncoupling a coupling shaft, install two or
three support straps, as needed. Remove the 2.3 Check the U-joint trunnions and bearing
fasteners that attach the midship bearing(s) to its cups for minute particles of dirt or grit.
bracket(s). See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. Clean if necessary. See Subject 140.
5. Remove the capscrews that secure the bearing 2.4 Using NLGI grade 2 grease with EP addi-
cups or straps to the half-round yoke. Remove tives, wipe a small amount of grease on
the bearing straps, if equipped. the needles in the bearing cups.
6. Compress the slip-joint to remove the U-joint 2.5 Using a light-weight oil, lubricate the lips
from the yoke. of the bearing-cup seals. See Fig. 6.
2.6 Install the bearing cups on the cross.
2.7 Install a bearing-cup retaining wire. See
Fig. 1, Ref. C. Or, install safety wire from

End-Yoke
A
A
A
6
2 5
08/11/95 f410074b
A. End-yoke cross-hole centerline is horizontal. C. Install a half-round bearing-cup retaining wire (or
B. Before uncoupling/coupling the U-joint, turn the end- safety wire) before removing the bearing straps.
yoke until its cross-hole centerline is horizontal.
1. Primary Coupling Shaft 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
2. Midship Bearing 5. Half-Round Bearing-Cup Retaining Wire
3. Intermediate Coupling Shaft 6. Retaining-Wire Groove
Fig. 1, U-Joint Uncoupling/Coupling for Drivelines With Half-Round End-Yokes, Except RPL U-Joints
the retaining-wire groove of one half- Seating the cross by tightening the bearing
round bearing cup to the other. straps can deform the bearing straps, allowing
the bearing cups to spin, which will cause rapid
3. Extend the slip-joint, while pressing the cross wear and serious damage to the U-joint.
and bearing cups into place in the yoke cross-
holes. Using a rubber or plastic mallet, gently tap 4. Place the bearing straps (if equipped) over the
the bearing cups to seat them in the yoke. See cups. Install the capscrews, finger-tight.
Fig. 7.
WARNING
CAUTION
The self-locking capscrews must not be reused.
Do not use the capscrews and bearing straps (if Replace the capscrews with new ones. Also, do
equipped) to seat the bearing cups in the yoke. not undertighten or overtighten the capscrews. A

End-Yoke
3
1
A
2
10/21/98 f410180
A. End-yoke cross-hole centerline is horizontal.
B. Before uncoupling/coupling the U-joint, turn the end-
yoke until its cross-hole centerline is horizontal.
1. Primary Coupling Shaft 3. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
2. Midship Bearing 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
Fig. 2, U-Joint Uncoupling/Coupling for Drivelines With Half-Round End-Yokes, RPL U-Joints
loose or broken fastener at any point in the drive- 5. Alternately tighten the capscrews in increments
line weakens the driveline connection, which of 20 lbf·ft (27 N·m) to the applicable torque
could cause serious vehicle damage, or could value in Specifications 400.
result in a driveshaft separating from the vehicle.
6. If they were removed, install the fasteners that
Driveline separation can cause loss of vehicle
attach each midship bearing to its bracket;
control that could result in serious personal in-
jury or death. tighten the flanged locknuts 91 lbf·ft (123 N·m).
Separation of the driveline can also cause dam- 7. Lubricate the U-joint, following the procedure in
age to the driveline, driveline components, or Group 41 of the Business Class M2 Maintenance
other areas of the vehicle. Manual.

End-Yoke
11/28/94 f410077a
A. Use fine emery cloth on this surface.
Fig. 5, Smooth a Half-Round End-Yoke U-Joint Bearing

11/28/94 f410075a Cup
Fig. 3, Remove Burrs from a Half-Round End-Yoke
Cross-Hole 1
11/28/94
A f410078a
A. Lubricate seal lips here.

1. Bearing Cup 3. Bearing-Cup Seal
A
2. Bearing Needle
Fig. 6, Sectional View of a Half-Round End-Yoke

U-Joint Bearing Cup
11/28/94 f410076a
Fig. 4, Smooth a Half-Round End-Yoke Cross-Hole

8. Remove the nylon support straps, then remove
the chocks.

End-Yoke
1
05/02/95 f410124a
1. Retaining Tab
Fig. 7, Seat a U-Joint in a Half-Round End-Yoke

U-Joint Uncoupling and Coupling With a Full-Round
End-Yoke
U-Joint Uncoupling dirt or grit can cause rapid wear and serious
damage to the U-joint.
NOTE: It is easier to check driveline parts, and
to replace a U-joint or midship bearing assembly U-Joint Coupling
if the driveshaft is removed from the vehicle. If a
driveshaft requires straightening or balancing, it 1. Check and clean the end-yoke.
must be removed, and installed on a lathe or a 1.1 Check the torque on the end-yoke nut.
balance machine. Removal is required for re- See Specifications 400.
placement of slip-joint parts, a driveshaft tube, 1.2 Check the end-yoke cross-holes for burrs
or a tube-yoke. To remove the driveshaft, see or raised metal. Using a rat-tail or half-
Subject 120. round file, remove burrs or raised metal.
NOTE: Many service operations do not require See Fig. 3.
driveshaft removal from the vehicle: end-yoke 1.3 Using a mill file, and holding it flat against
nut tightening; drive component shaft seal or the machined surface of the yoke lug,
end-yoke replacement; changing U-joint phasing remove any burrs or raised metal. See
at the slip-yoke; and transmission or axle re- Fig. 4.
moval (for overhaul, repair, or replacement). To 1.4 Using fine emery cloth, smooth and clean
perform these operations, uncouple the U-joint the entire surface of the yoke cross-holes.
at the applicable end of the appropriate drive- See Fig. 5.
shaft.
1.5 Turn the end-yoke until the centerline
1. Roll the vehicle forward or backward as needed through its cross-holes is vertical. See
to turn the end-yoke (of the driveline that is being Fig. 1.
uncoupled) until the centerline through its cross- 2. Check, clean, and lubricate the U-joint.
holes is vertical. See Fig. 1.
2. Apply the parking brakes, and chock the tires. the outside surfaces of both bearing cups.
3. Support the driveshaft with a nylon support strap. See Fig. 6.
When uncoupling a coupling shaft, install two or 2.2 Check the U-joint trunnions and bearing
three support straps, as needed. Remove the cups for minute particles of dirt or grit.
fasteners that attach the midship bearing(s) to its Clean if necessary; see Subject 140.
bracket(s).
4. Remove and discard all four bearing-cup-plate CAUTION
self-locking capscrews. Do not expose the U-joint trunnions or bearing-
5. Using one of the U-joint pullers listed in Specifi- cup needles to dirt or grit. The smallest bits of
cations 400, remove both bearing assemblies dirt or grit can cause rapid wear and serious
from the end-yoke cross-holes. See Fig. 2. damage to the U-joint.
6. Compress the slip-joint and pivot the end of the 2.3 Using NLGI grade 2 grease with EP addi-
U-joint cross to remove it from the yoke. Install tives, wipe a small amount of grease on
the bearing cups on the U-joint cross, and se- the needles in the bearing cups.
cure them with tape. 2.4 Using a light-weight oil, lubricate the lips
of the bearing-cup seals. See Fig. 7.
CAUTION 3. Couple the U-joint cross to the end-yoke.
Do not expose the U-joint trunnions or bearing- 3.1 Extend the slip-joint, while pivoting the
cup needles to dirt or grit. The smallest bits of U-joint cross into place in the yoke cross-
holes.

End-Yoke
05/02/95 f410148

A. End-yoke cross-hole centerline is vertical.
Fig. 1, U-Joint Uncoupling/Coupling of a Driveline With Full-Round End-Yokes

3.2 Move one end of the cross until a trun- tight, with no gaps; do not tighten the
nion projects through the cross-hole, be- capscrews to their final torque value.
yond the outer machined face of the yoke
lug. Using a Spicer trunnion (journal) lo- WARNING
cator ( Specifications 400), hold the
trunnions in alignment with the cross- Self-locking bearing-cup-plate capscrews must
holes, while placing a bearing assembly not be reused; replace the capscrews with new
over the projected trunnion, and aligning ones. Also, do not undertighten or overtighten
it with the cross-hole. See Fig. 8. any bearing-cup-plate capscrews. A loose or bro-
IMPORTANT: A Spicer trunnion (journal) lo- ken fastener at any point in the driveline weakens
cator should be used, to prevent damage to the driveline connection, which could cause seri-
ous vehicle damage, or could result in a drive-
the U-joint trunnions and slingers.
shaft separating from the vehicle, possibly caus-
3.3 By hand, press the bearing assembly ing loss of vehicle control that could result in
flush with the face of the yoke. If the serious personal injury or death.
bearing assembly binds in the cross-hole,
3.5 Move the cross until it projects beyond
tap the center of the bearing plate with a
the machined surface of the opposite
rubber or rawhide mallet; do not tap the
yoke lug. Repeat applicable substeps to
outer edges of the bearing plate. See
install the opposite bearing.
Fig. 9.
3.6 Alternately tighten the bearing-cup-plate
3.4 Install new bearing-cup-plate self-locking
capscrews in increments of 5 lbf·ft (7
capscrews. See Fig. 10. Tighten the cap-
screws until all the parts are drawn down

End-Yoke
05/03/95 f410102b
NOTE: Sleeve-yoke shown.

Fig. 4, Remove Burrs from the Machined Surface of a
Full-Round Yoke Lug
05/03/95 f410143
Fig. 2, Remove a Bearing Cup from a Full-Round End-

Yoke
05/03/95 f410103b

Fig. 5, Smooth a Full-Round Yoke Cross-Hole
B
05/03/95 f410101b

Fig. 3, Remove Burrs from a Full-Round Yoke Cross- 11/29/94 f410108a
Hole
N·m), to the torque value in Specifica- B. Use a mill file on this surface.
tions 400. Fig. 6, Smoothing a Full-Round Yoke U-Joint Bearing
Cup

End-Yoke
3
A
05/03/95 f410115b
08/02/96 f410145a NOTE: Sleeve-yoke shown.
A. Lubricate seal lips here. Fig. 9, Seat a U-Joint Bearing Cup in a Full-Round
1. Bearing Needle 3. Bearing-Cup Seal Yoke
2. Bearing-Cup Plate
Fig. 7, Sectional View of a Full-Round Yoke U-Joint

Bearing Cup
R I T OR
ME
1 1
1
04/13/98 f410155a
1. Self-Locking Capscrew
11/29/94 f410113a 2. Adhesive Band
Fig. 10, Meritor U-Joint Fasteners for Full-Round
1. Trunnion Locator Yokes
Fig. 8, Use a U-Joint Trunnion Locator
4. If they were removed, install the fasteners that
attach each midship bearing to its bracket;
tighten the flanged locknuts 91 lbf·ft (123 N·m).
5. Lubricate the U-joint, following the procedure in
Group 41 of the Business Class M2 Maintenance
Manual.
6. Remove the nylon support straps, then remove
the chocks.

Driveshaft Removal and Installation
NOTE: Many service operations do not require 2. Uncouple the No. 2 driveshaft from the transmis-
driveshaft removal from the vehicle: end-yoke sion or coupling shaft. See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 . If
nut tightening; drive component shaft seal or the No. 2 driveshaft is coupled to half-round end-
end-yoke replacement; changing U-joint phasing yokes, follow the uncoupling procedure in Sub-
at the slip-yoke; and transmission or axle re- ject 100. If the No. 2 driveshaft is coupled to full-
round end-yokes, follow the uncoupling
moval (for overhaul, repair, or replacement). To procedure in Subject 110.
perform these operations, uncouple the U-joint
at the applicable end of the appropriate drive- 3. Lift the No. 2 driveshaft out of the chassis.
shaft. See Subject 100 for uncoupling from a
half-round end-yoke, or see Subject 110 for un- Intermediate Coupling Shaft
coupling from a full-round end-yoke.
Removal
NOTE: It is easier to check driveline parts, and
to replace a U-joint or midship bearing assembly 1. If the No. 2 driveshaft is also being removed,
if the driveshaft is removed from the vehicle. If a remove it first.
driveshaft requires straightening or balancing, it If the No. 2 driveshaft is not being removed, use
must be removed, and installed on a lathe or a nylon support strap to support its forward end.
balance machine. Removal is required for re-
2. Uncouple the intermediate coupling shaft from
placement of slip-joint parts, a driveshaft tube, the No. 2 driveshaft. If the intermediate coupling
or a tube-yoke. shaft has a half-round end-yoke, follow the un-
coupling procedure in Subject 100. If the inter-
No. 3 Driveshaft Removal mediate coupling shaft has a full-round end-yoke,
follow the uncoupling procedure in Subject 110.
1. Uncouple the No. 3 driveshaft from the rearmost 3. Uncouple the intermediate coupling shaft from
axle. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. If the No. 3 drive- the primary coupling shaft. See Fig. 5 and
shaft is coupled to half-round end-yokes, follow Fig. 6. If the primary coupling shaft has a half-
the uncoupling procedure in Subject 100. If the round end-yoke, follow the uncoupling procedure
No. 3 driveshaft is coupled to full-round end- in Subject 100. If the primary coupling shaft has
yokes, follow the uncoupling procedure in Sub- a full-round end-yoke, follow the uncoupling pro-
ject 110. cedure in Subject 110.
2. Uncouple the No. 3 driveshaft from the forward- 4. Lift the intermediate coupling shaft out of the
rear axle. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. If the No. 3 chassis.
driveshaft is coupled to half-round end-yokes,
follow the uncoupling procedure in Subject 100.
If the No. 3 driveshaft is coupled to full-round Primary Coupling Shaft
end-yokes, follow the uncoupling procedure in
Subject 110.
Removal
3. Lift the No. 3 driveshaft out of the chassis. 1. For a vehicle with one coupling shaft:
If the No. 2 driveshaft is also being removed,
No. 2 Driveshaft Removal remove it first.
If the No. 2 driveshaft is not being removed, use
1. Uncouple the No. 2 driveshaft from the single or
a nylon support strap to support its forward end.
forward-rear axle. See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 . If the
No. 2 driveshaft is coupled to half-round end- For a vehicle with two coupling shafts:
yokes, follow the uncoupling procedure in Sub-
ject 100. If the No. 2 driveshaft is coupled to full- If the No. 2 driveshaft is also being removed,
remove it first; then, remove the intermediate
round end-yokes, follow the uncoupling
coupling shaft.
procedure in Subject 110.

B
5
2
D
4
C
3
A
B
1
05/04/95 f410096b
A. No. 3 Driveshaft Coupled to Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 3 Driveshaft Coupled to Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Forward-Rear Axle Output-Shaft Half-Round End- 3. Rearmost Axle Input-Shaft Half-Round End-yoke
Yoke 4. Forward-Rear Axle Output-Shaft Full-Round End-Yoke
2. No. 3 Driveshaft 5. Rearmost Axle Input-Shaft Full-Round End-yoke
Fig. 1, Removal/Installation of a No. 3 Driveshaft Without RPL U-Joints

If the intermediate coupling shaft is also being forward end of the No. 2 driveshaft and both
removed (but not the No. 2 driveshaft), remove ends of the intermediate coupling shaft. Then,
the intermediate coupling shaft first. remove the fasteners that attach the intermediate
coupling shaft midship bearing to its bracket. See
If only the primary coupling shaft is being re-
Fig. 7 and Fig. 8.
moved, use nylon support straps to support the

B
3
A
1
10/21/98 f410181
A. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. B. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
1. Forward-Rear Axle Output-Shaft Half-Round End- 2. No. 3 Driveshaft
Yoke 3. Rearmost Axle Input-Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke
Fig. 2, Removal/Installation of a No. 3 Driveshaft With RPL U-Joints

2. If not already done, uncouple the primary cou- coupling procedure in Subject 100. If the primary
pling shaft from the No. 2 driveshaft or intermedi- coupling shaft is coupled to a full-round end-
ate coupling shaft. If the primary coupling shaft yoke, follow the uncoupling procedure in Sub-
has a half-round end-yoke, follow the uncoupling ject 110.
procedure in Subject 100. If the primary coupling
5. Lift the primary coupling shaft out of the chassis.
shaft has a full-round end-yoke, follow the un-
coupling procedure in Subject 110.
3. Using two nylon support straps, support the pri-
Primary Coupling Shaft
mary coupling shaft. Then remove the fasteners Installation
that attach the primary coupling shaft midship
bearing to its bracket. See Fig. 7 and Fig. 8. IMPORTANT: Before installing a coupling shaft,
4. Uncouple the primary coupling shaft from the make sure the yokes are aligned to keep the
transmission. If the primary coupling shaft is U-joints in phase. See Fig. 9.
coupled to a half-round end-yoke, follow the un-

B
5
7
3
B 4
D
6
C
B
1
2 A
05/05/95 f410080b
A. No. 2 Driveshaft Coupled to Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 2 Driveshaft Coupled to Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Transmission Output-Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke 5. Transmission Output-Shaft Full-Round End-Yoke
2. Coupling Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke 6. Coupling Shaft Full-Round End-Yoke
3. No. 2 Driveshaft 7. Single Axle or Forward-Rear Axle Input-Shaft Full-
4. Single Axle or Forward-Rear Axle Input-Shaft Half- Round End-Yoke
Round End-Yoke
Fig. 3, Removal/Installation of a No. 2 Driveshaft Without RPL U-Joints

B
4
A
1
2
A
10/21/98 f410183
1. Transmission Output-Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke 4. Single Axle or Forward-Rear Axle Input-Shaft Half-
2. Coupling Shaft Half-Round End-Yoke Round End-Yoke
3. No. 2 Driveshaft
Fig. 4, Removal/Installation of a No. 2 Driveshaft With RPL U-Joints

1. Place the primary coupling shaft under the ve- If the No. 2 driveshaft was not removed, couple it
hicle and support it with nylon support straps so to the primary coupling shaft end-yoke. If the pri-
it can be coupled to the transmission end-yoke. mary coupling shaft has a half-round end-yoke,
follow the coupling procedure in Subject 100. If
2. Couple the shaft to the transmission end-yoke. If the primary coupling shaft has a full-round end-
the primary coupling shaft was coupled to a half- yoke, follow the coupling procedure in Sub-
round end-yoke, follow the coupling procedure in ject 110.
Subject 100. If the primary coupling shaft was
coupled to a full-round end-yoke, follow the cou- For a vehicle with two coupling shafts:
pling procedure in Subject 110.
If the intermediate coupling shaft was also re-
3. For a vehicle with one coupling shaft: moved, install it, as instructed in this subject.
If the No. 2 driveshaft was also removed, install If only the primary coupling shaft was removed,
it, as instructed in this subject. couple the intermediate coupling shaft to the pri-
mary coupling shaft end-yoke. If the primary cou-
pling shaft has a half-round end-yoke, follow the

7
6
C
7
4
7
D
5 6
B
1 2 3
3
4
B
3
C
A
5
2
1
05/04/95 f410084b
A. No. 2 Driveline With Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 2 Driveline With Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Primary Coupling Shaft 5. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
2. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 6. No. 2 Driveshaft
3. Half-Round End-Yoke 7. Full-Round End-Yoke
4. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
Fig. 5, Removal/Installation of an Intermediate Coupling Shaft Without RPL U-Joints

coupling procedure in Subject 100. If the primary coupling shaft has a full-round end-yoke, follow
the coupling procedure in Subject 110.

3
6
3
B
4 5
2
1
10/21/98 f410184
2. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 5. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
3. Half-Round End-Yoke 6. No. 2 Driveshaft
Fig. 6, Removal/Installation of an Intermediate Coupling Shaft With RPL U-Joints
Intermediate Coupling Shaft so it can be coupled to the primary coupling

shaft end-yoke.
Installation 3. Couple the intermediate coupling shaft to the pri-
mary coupling shaft end-yoke. If the intermediate
IMPORTANT: Before installing a coupling shaft,
coupling shaft was coupled to a half-round end-
make sure the yokes are aligned to keep the yoke, follow the coupling procedure in Sub-
U-joints in phase. See Fig. 9. ject 100. If the intermediate coupling shaft was
1. If the primary coupling shaft was also removed, coupled to a full-round end-yoke, follow the cou-
install it first, as instructed in this subject. pling procedure in Subject 110.
2. Place the intermediate coupling shaft under the 4. If the No. 2 driveshaft was also removed, install
vehicle and support it with nylon support straps it, as instructed in this subject.

C 5
7
6
2
7
3
D
B
4
4
1 5
B
6
1
3
2 A
08/29/96 f410086b
A. No. 2 Driveline With Half-Round End-Yokes C. Uncouple this end first; couple this end last.
B. Uncouple this end last; couple this end first. D. No. 2 Driveline With Full-Round End-Yokes
1. Half-Round End-Yoke 5. Intermediate Coupling Shaft
2. Primary Coupling Shaft 6. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
3. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 7. Full-Round End-Yoke
4. No. 2 Driveshaft
Fig. 7, Removal/Installation of a Primary Coupling Shaft Without RPL U-Joints

5
1
6
A
1
B
3
2
10/21/98 f410185
1. Half-Round End-Yoke 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
3. Primary Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing 6. Intermediate Coupling Shaft Midship Bearing
Fig. 8, Removal/Installation of a Primary Coupling Shaft With RPL U-Joints

If the No. 2 driveshaft was not removed, couple it
to the intermediate coupling shaft end-yoke. If
No. 2 Driveshaft Installation
the intermediate coupling shaft has a half-round
end-yoke, follow the coupling procedure in Sub-
IMPORTANT: Before installing a No. 2 drive-
ject 100. If the intermediate coupling shaft has a shaft, make sure the alignment marks on the
full-round end-yoke, follow the coupling proce- slip-joint assembly are aligned, to keep the
dure in Subject 110. U-joints in phase; see Fig. 10.

5. Couple the No. 2 driveshaft to the axle input-

shaft end-yoke. If the No. 2 driveshaft was
coupled to half-round end-yokes, follow the cou-
pling procedure in Subject 100. If the No. 2
driveshaft was coupled to full-round end-yokes,
A follow the coupling procedure in Subject 110.
No. 3 Driveshaft Installation

IMPORTANT: Before installing a No. 3 drive-
shaft, make sure the alignment marks on the
slip-joint assembly are aligned, to keep the
U-joints in phase; see Fig. 10.
1. Place the No. 3 driveshaft under the vehicle with
05/08/95 f410098b its sleeve-yoke at the forward end, and support
its rear end with a nylon support strap.
A. Cross-hole centerlines of both yokes must be in
alignment. 2. Couple the sleeve-yoke to the forward-rear axle
output-shaft end-yoke. If the No. 3 driveshaft was
Fig. 9, U-Joint Phasing of a Coupling Shaft
follow the coupling procedure in Subject 110.
3. Couple the No. 3 driveshaft to the axle input-
shaft end-yoke. If the No. 3 driveshaft was
A
B
05/02/95 f410006b follow the coupling procedure in Subject 110.
A. In Phase B. Out of Phase
Fig. 10, U-Joint Phasing

1. If a primary coupling shaft was also removed,
install it first, as instructed in this subject.
2. If an intermediate coupling shaft was also re-
moved, install it before installing the No. 2 drive-
shaft.
3. Place the No. 2 driveshaft under the vehicle with
its sleeve-yoke at the forward end, and support
its rear end with a nylon support strap.
4. Couple the sleeve-yoke to the coupling shaft
end-yoke or transmission output-shaft end-yoke,
as applicable. If the No. 2 driveshaft was coupled
to half-round end-yokes, follow the coupling pro-
cedure in Subject 100. If the No. 2 driveshaft
was coupled to full-round end-yokes, follow the
coupling procedure in Subject 110.

Driveline Component Removal/Disassembly
U-Joint Removal
1
Full-Round Yokes
1. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle. See
Subject 120.
2. Place the driveshaft in V-blocks or a soft-jawed
vise; do not distort the tube with excessive grip.
3. Remove and discard all four bearing-plate self- 2
locking capscrews. See Fig. 1. 11/28/94 f410088a
1. Trunnions 2. Slingers
Fig. 2, U-Joint Cross
R I T OR
ME
1 1
04/13/98 f410155a
2. Adhesive Band
Fig. 1, Meritor U-Joint Fasteners for Full-Round Yokes
IMPORTANT: If the U-joint will be reinstalled,

use care not to nick the cross trunnions or dam-
age the slingers. See Fig. 2.
11/28/94 f410120a
4. Using one of the U-joint pullers listed in Specifi-
cations, 400, remove both bearing cups from the Fig. 3, Removing a Bearing Cup from a Full-Round
yoke cross-holes. See Fig. 3. Remove the cross Yoke
from the yoke.
1. Remove the driveshaft from the vehicle. See
Subject 120.
RPL Series U-Joint
2. Place the driveshaft in V-blocks or a soft-jawed
NOTE: Do not reuse RPL U-joints. Always re- vise; do not distort the tube with excessive grip.
place an RPL U-joint with a new one after they
3. Remove and discard the snap rings. See Fig. 4.
have been disassembled and removed from a
driveshaft. 4. Cut the weld strap that retains the bearing cups.
See Fig. 5. Remove both bearing cups. See
Fig. 6.

1
1
4 2
2
3
2 3
1
12/09/97 f410179
1. Snap Ring 4. Bearing Cups (RPL
2. Bearing Cups Joint)
05/15/98 f410187
3. Full Round Yoke
1. Press 3. Bearing Cup
Fig. 4, RPL U-Joint Components 2. Bridge Receiver
Fig. 7, Removing Bearing Cups from an RPL U-Joint
Slip-Joint Disassembly
Except RPL Drivelines
1. Check that the driveshaft yokes are aligned to
hold the U-joints at either end in phase, as
shown in Fig. 8. Using a marking stick or paint,
mark the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft with
05/15/2008
1 f410418 alignment marks, as shown in Fig. 9. This will
ensure proper alignment of the slip-joint compo-
1. Weld-Strap
nents when the driveshaft is assembled.
Fig. 5, Cutting the Weld-Strap IMPORTANT: Misaligned driveshaft yokes will
cause the U-joints to be out of phase, which will
cause vibration in the driveline.
2. With the driveshaft uncoupled at one end, or re-
moved from the vehicle, use a strap wrench to
unscrew the slip-joint dust cap from the sleeve-
yoke, then pull the sleeve-yoke off of the splined
shaft. Remove the dust cap, and (if so equipped)
the steel washer and cork seal. See Fig. 10.
05/04/98 f410419
RPL Drivelines
Fig. 6, Removing the Bearing Cups
1. Check that the driveshaft yokes are aligned to
5. Remove both bearing cups from the yoke cross- hold the U-joints at either end in phase, as
holes. See Fig. 7. Remove the cross from the shown in Fig. 8. Using a marking stick or paint,
yoke. mark the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft with
alignment marks, as shown in Fig. 9. This will

05/08/95 f410089b
A. Use a marking stick or paint to add alignment

marks.
B
Fig. 9, Slip-Joint Alignment Marks
7
6
5
4
3
C 2
1
05/21/2008 f410525
A. In Phase (parallel phased)
B. In Phase (cross phased)
C. Out of Phase 11/28/94 f410090a
Fig. 8, U-Joint Phasing 1. Sleeve-Yoke 5. Splined Stub Shaft

2. Cork Washer 6. Tube
ensure proper alignment of the slip-joint compo- 3. Steel Washer 7. Tube-Yoke
nents when the driveshaft is assembled. 4. Dust Cap
IMPORTANT: Misaligned driveshaft yokes will Fig. 10, Slip-Joint Components

cause the U-joints to be out of phase, which will
cause vibration in the driveline. Transmission/Axle End-Yoke
2. With the driveshaft uncoupled at one end, or re- Removal
moved from the vehicle, use a brass hammer
and punch to tap the shroud off the slip seal. IMPORTANT: Before removing a transmission
See Fig. 11. output-shaft end-yoke or an axle shaft end-yoke,
3. Use a screwdriver to pry the seal out of the do the steps under "End-Yoke Cleaning and In-
groove in the slip yoke, then pull the sleeve-yoke spection," in Subject 140.
off of the splined shaft. Remove the shroud and
1. Uncouple the driveshaft from the end-yoke (Sub-
seal.
ject 100 for a half-round yoke or Subject 110 for

1
12/09/97 f410191 2 A
Fig. 11, Shroud Removal
a full-round yoke), or remove the driveshaft from

the vehicle (Subject 120).
2. Remove the end-yoke locknut. See Fig. 12.
3. Using a yoke puller, remove the end-yoke. See
Fig. 13 for a half-round end-yoke, or see Fig. 14 1
for a full-round end-yoke. 2 B
05/08/95 f410146
A. Axle End-Yoke
B. Coupling Shaft End-Yoke
1. Yoke Puller 2. Bearing Strap
Fig. 13, Removing a Half-Round End-Yoke
end-yoke. Then, remove the midship bearing as

follows. See Fig. 15.
3.1 Use a marking stick or paint to mark the
end-yoke and coupling shaft with align-
ment marks. See Fig. 16.
3.2 Remove the coupling shaft end-yoke lock-
05/10/95 f410092b nut.
Fig. 12, Axle End-Yoke Locknut 3.3 Using a yoke puller, remove the end-yoke.
See Fig. 13 for a half-round end-yoke, or
Coupling Shaft End-Yoke and see Fig. 14 for a full-round end-yoke.
Midship Bearing Removal 3.4 Use a hammer and a brass drift to remove
the midship bearing. See Fig. 15.
1. Remove the coupling shaft from the vehicle. See
Subject 120.
2. Clamp the coupling shaft in a soft-jawed vise; do
not distort the tube with excessive grip.
3. Remove the end-yoke; see Fig. 13 for a half-
round end-yoke, or see Fig. 14 for a full-round

11/28/94 A f410099a
A. Use a marking stick or paint to mark the end-yoke
and coupling shaft with alignment marks.
1 1. Half-Round End- 2. End-Yoke Locknut
A
2 Yoke
Fig. 16, Alignment Marks on a Coupling Shaft With an

End-Yoke
1
05/08/95 B f410147
A. Axle End-Yoke
B. Coupling Shaft End-Yoke
1. Yoke Puller 2. Full-Round End-Yoke
Fig. 14, Removing a Full-Round End-Yoke
03/06/2008 f410524
1. Midship Bearing
2. Midship Bearing Shaft
Fig. 15, Midship Bearing

Driveline Component Cleaning and Inspection
Driveshaft Tube, Slip-Joint,

Sleeve-Yoke, and Tube-Yoke 1
Cleaning and Inspection
1. With the driveshaft removed, scrape or soak
away any foreign material.
2. Examine the driveshaft tube for dents, bends,
twists, splitting weld-seams, and signs of missing
balance weights. 2
11/28/94 f410091a
Replace the driveshaft tube if damaged; see
"Driveshaft Tube, Stub Shaft (Slip-Joint), or 1. Sleeve-Yoke 2. Yoke Plug
Tube-Yoke Replacement," in Subject 150. If bal-
ance weights appear to be missing, have the Fig. 2, Sleeve-Yoke Plug
driveshaft balanced to a maximum tolerance of
one inch-ounce per ten pounds weight per end,
at 3000 rpm.
3. Clean the slip-joint (male and female) splines,
then check them for twisting and galling. See
Fig. 1. Replace both the sleeve-yoke and the
splined shaft if the slip-joint is damaged; see
"Driveshaft Tube, Stub Shaft (Slip-Joint), or
Tube-Yoke Replacement," in Subject 150. Re-
move any burrs or rough spots using fine emery
cloth.
05/03/95 f410101b

Fig. 3, Removing Burrs From a Full-Round Yoke Cross-
Hole
6. Using a mill file, and holding it flat against the

machined surface of the driveshaft yoke lug, file
B each yoke lug, to remove any burrs or raised
11/28/94 f410007a metal. See Fig. 4.
A. Twisted Splines B. Galling 7. Using fine emery cloth, smooth and clean the
entire surface of all driveshaft yoke cross-holes.
Fig. 1, Damaged Slip-Joint Splines See Fig. 5.
4. Check for a loose or missing sleeve-yoke plug.
See Fig. 2. Repair or replace the plug as Midship Bearing Cleaning and
needed. Inspection
5. With the U-joint assemblies removed, check all
driveshaft yoke cross-holes for raised metal. 1. With the midship bearing removed from the cou-
Using a rat-tail or half-round file, remove burrs or pling shaft, use clean rags or paper towels to
raised metal. See Fig. 3.

End-Yoke Cleaning and

Inspection
1. With the transmission output-shaft and axle shaft
end-yokes installed, check them for cracks and
looseness.
Replace cracked yokes. If the end-yoke can be
moved in or out on its shaft, or can be rocked on
its shaft, uncouple the driveshaft from the end-
yoke. Check the drive component’s shaft seal for
leakage or other visible damage that may have
been caused by the loose yoke. Replace the
05/03/95 f410102b
shaft seal if needed. Tighten the end-yoke nut to
NOTE: Sleeve-yoke shown. the torque value given in Specifications 400. If
Fig. 4, Removing Burrs From the Machined Surface of the end-yoke is still loose after tightening the
a Full-Round Yoke Lug yoke nut, install a new yoke and yoke nut.
NOTE: If the end-yoke locknut is removed for
any reason, install a new one.
2. With the U-joints uncoupled from the end-yokes,
check all driveshaft and input/output shaft end-
yoke cross-holes for raised metal. Using a rat-tail
or half-round file, remove burrs or raised metal.
See Fig. 3 for full-round yokes, or see Fig. 6 for
half-round yokes.
05/03/95 f410103b

Fig. 5, Smoothing a Full-Round Yoke Cross-Hole
wipe off the outside of the midship bearing and

rubber cushion.
IMPORTANT: Do not immerse the midship bear-
ing in cleaning solvent. The solvent will wash
out the lubricant, requiring bearing-assembly re-
placement.
11/28/94 f410075a
2. Check the midship bearing for roughness or
rattles by holding the outside of the bearing while Fig. 6, Removing Burrs From a Half-Round End-Yoke
manually turning the inner bearing race. Replace Cross-Hole
the bearing assembly if there are any rough
spots or rattles. 3. Using a mill file, and holding it flat against the
machined surface of the full-round end-yoke lug,
3. Check the rubber cushion for deterioration or oil- file each yoke lug, to remove any burrs or raised
soaking, and replace the midship bearing assem- metal. See Fig. 4.
bly if needed.

4. Smooth and clean the entire surface of all end- dry with compressed air. Check for minute par-
yoke cross-holes, using fine emery cloth. See ticles of dirt or grit, and clean again if necessary.
Fig. 5 for full-round yokes, or see Fig. 7 for half- 4. Check each bearing cup for missing bearing
round yokes. needles. Check the bearing-cup seals for nicks.
See Fig. 10 for a half-round-yoke U-joint bearing
cup, or see Fig. 11 for a full-round-yoke U-joint
bearing cup. Replace the U-joint assembly if any
bearing needles are missing or any seals are
damaged.
5. Apply a small quantity of multipurpose chassis
grease to the bearing needles in each cup, then
apply a small amount of light-weight oil to the
lips of the bearing-cup seals. Rotate each bear-
ing cup on the cross to check for wear. Replace
A the U-joint assembly if any bearing surfaces are
worn.
6. Check the underside of each bearing-cup plate
for burrs or raised metal. Use a mill file to re-
move any burrs or raised metal. See Fig. 12.
11/28/94 f410076a
7. Using fine emery cloth, smooth and clean the
outside surfaces of all bearing cups. See Fig. 12
A. Use fine emery cloth on this surface. and Fig. 13.
Fig. 7, Smoothing a Half-Round End-Yoke Cross-Hole
U-Joint Cleaning and

Inspection
1. With the U-joints removed from the yokes, and
the bearing cups removed from the crosses, in-
spect the U-joint cross slingers for damage, then
inspect the U-joint trunnions for spalling (flaking
metal), end galling (displacement of metal),
brinelling (grooves caused by bearing needles),
and pitting (small craters caused by corrosion).
See Fig. 8. If damaged, replace the U-joint as-
sembly.
2. Using a hand-type grease gun, apply multipur-
pose chassis grease to the fitting on each U-joint
cross until all old lubricant is forced out. See
Fig. 9. Examine the old lubricant. If it appears
rusty, gritty, or burnt, replace the U-joint assem-
bly.
3. Soak the bearing cups in a non-flammable
cleaner until particles of grease and foreign mat-
ter are loosened or dissolved. Do not disas-
semble the bearing cups; clean the bearing
needles with a short, stiff brush, then blow them

1 2 3 4
11/28/94 5 f410107a
1. Spalling 3. Brinelling 5. Slinger
2. End Galling 4. Pitting
Fig. 8, Damaged U-Joint Crosses
3
11/28/94 f410106a
A
Fig. 9, Forcing Out Old Lubricant From a U-Joint Cross
1 08/02/96 f410145a

2 1. Bearing Needle 3. Bearing-Cup Seal
2. Bearing-Cup Plate
3
Fig. 11, Sectional View of a Full-Round Yoke U-Joint
Bearing Cup
11/28/94
A f410078a

1. Bearing Cup 3. Bearing-Cup Seal
2. Bearing Needle
Fig. 10, Sectional View of a Half-Round End-Yoke

U-Joint Bearing Cup

11/29/94 f410108a
B. Use a mill file on this surface.
Fig. 12, Smoothing a Full-Round Yoke U-Joint Bearing

Cup
11/28/94 f410077a
Fig. 13, Smoothing a Half-Round Yoke U-Joint Bearing

Cup

Driveline Component Replacement or Installation/
Assembly
Driveshaft Tube, Stub Shaft A A

(Slip-Joint), and Tube-Yoke
Replacement
B
IMPORTANT: Parts for different series drivelines
must not be intermixed. Incorrectly assembled
or worn components can affect the entire drive- C D C
line, resulting in too much vibration or driveline 06/13/96 f410110b
damage.
A. Measurement: 3 inches (76 mm)
To replace a driveshaft tube, a tube-yoke, or a stub B. Measurement: 0.005 inch (0.127 mm)
shaft (Fig. 1), the driveshaft must be chucked in a C. Measurement: 0.010 inch (0.2540 mm)
lathe, so the welds can be removed. Driveshaft re- D. Measurement: 0.015 inch (0.381 mm)
building should be done by a machine shop that spe-
cializes in driveline repair. Fig. 2, Runout Specifications for a Rebuilt (or New)
Driveshaft
1 2 3 or worn components can affect the entire drive-

line, resulting in too much vibration or driveline
damage.
Except RPL Drivelines

1. Place the slip-joint dust cap, and (if so equipped)
11/29/94 f410109a steel washer and cork seal, over the splined
1. Tube-Yoke 3. Stub Shaft shaft. See Fig. 3.
2. Driveshaft Tube
7
Fig. 1, Driveshaft Tube, Stub Shaft, and Tube-Yoke 6
Runout limits for a new (rebuilt) driveshaft (Fig. 2)
are: 5
4
• 0.005 inch (0.127 mm) T.I.R. (Total Indicator 3
Reading) on the smooth portion of the stub 2
shaft neck; 1
• 0.010 inch (0.254 mm) T.I.R. on the tube 3
inch (76 mm) from the front and rear welds;
• 0.015 inch (0.381 mm) T.I.R. at the center of
the tube.
11/28/94 f410090a
Balance the rebuilt driveshaft to a maximum toler-
ance of 1 inch-ounce per 10 pounds weight per end, 1. Sleeve-Yoke 5. Splined Stub Shaft
2. Cork Washer 6. Tube
at 3000 rpm.
3. Steel Washer 7. Tube-Yoke
4. Dust Cap
Slip-Joint Replacement or
Fig. 3, Slip-Joint Components
Assembly
2. Coat the splines of the shaft with multipurpose
IMPORTANT: Parts for different series drivelines chassis grease.

Assembly
3. Insert the splined shaft in the sleeve-yoke, so

that the alignment marks are aligned, and the
U-joints at each end of the driveshaft will be in
phase. See Fig. 4 and Fig. 5.
A
05/08/95 f410089b
A. Use a marking stick or paint to add alignment

marks.
Fig. 5, Slip-Joint Alignment Marks
NOTE: The splines should slide freely, with only

a slight drag from the slip-joint dust cap.
B
RPL Drivelines
1. Remove the grease plug from the sleeve-yoke.
2. Coat the splines of the sleeve-yoke with multipur-
pose chassis grease.
3. Install the shroud on the splined shaft.
4. Install the seal onto the shroud.
C
5. Insert the splined shaft in the sleeve-yoke so that
the alignment marks are aligned, and the U-joints
at each end of the driveshaft will be in phase.
05/21/2008 f410525 See Fig. 4 and Fig. 5.
IMPORTANT: If no alignment marks are visible,
C. Out of Phase or new slip-joint components have been in-
stalled, align the yokes, assemble the slip-joint,
Fig. 4, U-Joint Phasing then have the driveline balanced to a maximum
tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per 10 pounds weight
IMPORTANT: If no alignment marks are visible, per end, at 3000 rpm.
or new slip-joint components have been in-
stalled, align the yokes, assemble the slip-joint, 6. Install the seal into the shaft groove.
then have the driveline balanced to a maximum 7. Install the shroud. Use a brass hammer to tap
tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per 10 pounds weight the shroud over the seal.
per end, at 3000 rpm. 8. Install the grease plug in the sleeve-yoke.
4. Install the slip-joint dust cap. Use only enough NOTE: The splines should slide freely, with only
torque to seat the steel washer and cork seal (if a slight drag from the slip-joint dust cap.
so equipped) snug against the end of the sleeve-
yoke; do not overtighten.

Assembly
Midship Bearing and Coupling the nut off slightly, and tighten it to the
same torque.
Shaft End-Yoke Replacement
or Assembly U-Joint Replacement or
Installation
must not be intermixed. Incorrectly assembled IMPORTANT: Parts for different series drivelines
or worn components can affect the entire drive- must not be intermixed. Also, components of the
line, resulting in too much vibration or driveline various makes of U-joints may not be inter-
damage. changeable, and must be assembled only with
1. Place the coupling shaft in a soft-jawed vise; do compatible products. Incorrectly assembled or
not distort the tube with excessive grip. worn components can affect the entire driveline,
NOTE: Midship bearings are permanently lubri- resulting in too much vibration or driveline dam-
cated when manufactured; it is not necessary to age.
pack the bearing with grease. Worn bearing assemblies used with a new
2. Install the midship bearing on the coupling shaft. cross, or new bearing assemblies used with a
Press the bearing on by hand, as far as it will go. worn cross will wear rapidly, making another
3. Install the end-yoke. See Fig. 6. replacement necessary in a short time. Always
replace the cross and all four bearing assem-
3.1 Apply Loctite® 242 to the shaft threads blies at the same time.
where the end-yoke locknut will be in-
stalled. If the slip-joint of a No. 2 or No. 3 driveshaft has
been disassembled, assemble the slip-joint before
3.2 Align the marks added to the coupling installing the U-joints.
shaft and end-yoke during removal, then
place the end-yoke on the shaft so the
yoke bores are aligned at both ends of the
Full-Round Yokes
shaft. See Fig. 6. 1. Place the assembled driveshaft in V-blocks or a
soft-jawed vise; do not distort the tube with ex-
cessive grip.
1
2. For a No. 2 or No. 3 driveshaft, check that the
slip-joint alignment marks are aligned, so that the
U-joints at each end of the driveshaft will be in
2
phase. See Fig. 4 and Fig. 5.
For a coupling shaft, check that the end-yoke
and tube-yoke are aligned, so that the U-joints at
each end of the coupling shaft will be in phase.
11/28/94 A f410099a See Fig. 6.
A. Use a marking stick or paint to mark the end-yoke IMPORTANT: Misaligned driveshaft yokes will
and coupling shaft with alignment marks. cause the U-joints to be out of phase, which will
1. Half-Round End- 2. End-Yoke Locknut cause vibration in the driveline.
Yoke
3. Inspect and lubricate the U-joint; see Sub-
ject 140.
Fig. 6, Alignment Marks on a Coupling Shaft With an
4. Install the U-joint cross and bearing assemblies
End-Yoke
in the yoke.
3.3 Install the end-yoke nut, and tighten it 475 4.1 Position the U-joint cross in the driveshaft
to 525 lbf·ft (645 to 710 N·m). Then back yoke so one grease fitting points toward

Assembly
the driveshaft, and aligns with the grease IMPORTANT: A Spicer trunnion (journal) lo-
fitting on the sleeve-yoke (if so equipped). cator should be used to prevent damage to
See Fig. 7. the U-joint trunnions and slingers.
4.3 By hand, press the bearing-cup-plate flush
with the face of the yoke. If the bearing
cup binds in the cross-hole, tap the center
of the bearing-cup plate with a leather or
A rubber mallet; do not tap the outer edges
of the plate. See Fig. 9.
11/29/94 f410112a
A. Install the cross with grease fitting pointing toward
the driveshaft, and aligned with the sleeve-yoke
grease fitting.
Fig. 7, U-Joint Grease Fitting Positioning
4.2 Move one end of the cross until a trunnion

projects through the cross-hole, beyond
the outer machined face of the yoke lug. 05/03/95 f410115b
Using a Spicer trunnion (journal) locator
(see Specifications 400), hold the trun- Fig. 9, Seating a U-Joint Bearing Cup In a Full-Round
nions in alignment with the cross-holes, Yoke
while placing a bearing cup (plate-type)
over the projected trunnion, and aligning it 4.4 Install new bearing-cup-plate self-locking
capscrews. See Fig. 10. Tighten the cap-
with the cross-hole. See Fig. 8.
screws until all the parts are drawn down
tight, with no gaps; do not tighten the cap-
screws to their final torque value.
WARNING
Self-locking bearing-cup-plate capscrews must
not be reused; replace the capscrews with new
ones. Also, do not undertighten or overtighten
any bearing-cup-plate capscrews. A loose or bro-
ken fastener at any point in the driveline weakens
the driveline connection, which could cause seri-
ous vehicle damage, or could result in a drive-
shaft separating from the vehicle, possibly caus-
ing loss of vehicle control that could result in
1 serious personal injury or death.
4.5 Move the cross until it projects beyond the
11/29/94 f410113a machined surface of the opposite yoke
NOTE: Sleeve-yoke shown. lug. Using the above procedure, install the
1. Trunnion Locator opposite bearing assembly and its fasten-
ers.
Fig. 8, Using a U-Joint Trunnion Locator

Assembly
each end of the coupling shaft will be in phase.

See Fig. 6.
IMPORTANT: Misaligned driveshaft yokes will
1 cause the U-joints to be out of phase, which will
cause vibration in the driveline.
2 3. Inspect the U-joint. See Subject 140.
4. Install the U-joint cross and bearing assemblies
in the yoke.
4.1 Position the U-joint cross in the driveshaft
ME
R I T OR yoke so that the wing bearing weld strap
faces inboard, and the arrows point to-
ward the end of the coupling yoke. See
Fig. 11.
1 1
1
04/13/98 f410155a
2. Adhesive Band
Fig. 10, Meritor U-Joint Fasteners for Full-Round Yokes
4.6 Slightly back off all four capscrews, then 4

alternately tighten them in increments of 5
lbf·ft (7 N·m), to the applicable torque 3
value in Specifications 400. 2
08/15/2008 f410526
NOTE: The U-joint should flex, and be free 1. U-Joint Cross 3. Wing Bushing
of excessive bind. A slight drag is the most 2. Weld Strap 4. Arrows
desirable condition for new U-joints. Exces-
sive looseness is not desirable, and may Fig. 11, Fitting the U-Joint
result in an unbalanced driveshaft.
4.2 Move one end of the cross until a trunnion
projects through the cross-hole, beyond
RPL Series U-Joint the outer machined face of the yoke lug.
NOTE: Do not reuse RPL U-joints. Always re- Place a bearing cup over the projected
place an RPL U-joint with a new one if they trunnion, and align it with the cross-hole.
have been disassembled and removed from a 4.3 Press the bearing cup into the yoke
driveshaft. slightly past the snap ring groove. See
1. Place the assembled driveshaft in V-blocks or a Fig. 12. Check that the bearing cup is
soft-jawed vise; do not distort the tube with ex- aligned with the universal joint trunnion.
cessive grip. 4.4 Install the snap ring into the snap ring
2. For a No. 2 or No. 3 driveshaft, check that the groove. See Fig. 13.
slip-joint alignment marks are aligned, so that the 4.5 Use a snap ring installation gauge to
U-joints at each end of the driveshaft will be in check that the snap ring is fully seated in
phase. See Fig. 4 and Fig. 5. the snap ring groove. See Fig. 14.
For a coupling shaft, check that the end-yoke 4.6 Move the cross until it projects beyond the
and tube-yoke are aligned, so that the U-joints at machined surface of the opposite yoke

Assembly
lug. Using the above procedure, install the

opposite bearing cup assembly.
NOTE: The U-joint should flex, and be free
of excessive bind. A slight drag is the most
desirable condition for new U-joints. Exces-
sive looseness is not desirable, and may
result in an unbalanced driveshaft.
4.7 If the universal joint does not move freely,
strike the yoke ear with a brass or copper
hammer. See Fig. 15.
05/04/98 f410422
Fig. 12, Installing Bearing Cups, RPL Series U-Joint
1
05/15/98 f410426
1. U-Joint Cross
1
Fig. 15, Striking the Yoke Ear
Transmission/Axle End-Yoke
Replacement or Installation
05/06/98 f410423
1. U-Joint
or worn components can affect the entire drive-
Fig. 13, Installing the Snap Rings line, resulting in too much vibration or driveline
damage.
1. Apply Loctite® 242 to the input- or output-shaft
threads where the end-yoke locknut will be in-
stalled. See Fig. 16.
2. By hand, install the end-yoke on the input or out-
put shaft as far as it will go.
3. Install a new end-yoke locknut, and tighten it to
the applicable torque value in Specifica-
tions 400.
12/09/97 f410189
Fig. 14, Checking Snap Ring Installation

Assembly
05/10/95 f410092b
Fig. 16, Axle End-Yoke Locknut

Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting CAUTION
Noise or vibration associated with the driveline can Do not overtighten the bearing-cup-plate or
be caused by non-driveline parts. To find the cause bearing-strap capscrews. A loose or broken fas-
of noise or vibration, first road test the loaded ve- tener at any point in the driveline weakens the
hicle. Drive in all gears and at all speed ranges for driveline connection, which could result in seri-
which the vehicle was designed, including those at ous vehicle damage.
which problems are reported.
6. Check all U-joint assemblies, slip-joint splines,
NOTE: Operating a vehicle at speeds that ex- and midship bearings for wear.
ceed its drivetrain design specifications may 6.1 Try to move each driveshaft up and
cause an out-of-balance vibration. down, and from side to side. If movement
is greater than 0.006 in (0.15 mm) of a
The following is a troubleshooting elimination pro-
U-joint cross in its bearings,replace the
cess; checks should be made in the order listed. At
U-joint assembly.
each step where a problem is found, correct the
problem before proceeding to the next step, then test 6.2 If the midship bearing rattles or is loose
drive the vehicle to see if other problems still exist. If on its shaft, replace it.
no other problems exist, the elimination process may
be ended at that step. 6.3 Try to bend the sleeve-yoke and splined
shaft up and down, and from side to side.
1. Check all tires for uneven wear and for out-of- See Fig. 1. If looseness is greater than
roundness. Check for mismatched tires. Look for 0.007 in (0.18 mm), replace the sleeve-
wheels and rims that are out of alignment. For yoke and splined shaft.
If driveline components must be replaced,
2. Check the rear suspension for loose or broken see Subject 150.
U-bolts; broken, shifted, or mismatched rear
springs; or broken spring seats. If so equipped,
check the air suspension for incorrect air spring
height. Look for anything that could cause angu-
lar misalignment of the rear axle pinion(s). For
3. Check the frame rails and crossmembers for
bends, twists, or breaks; for frame-alignment-
checking and crossmember-replacement instruc-
4. Check the engine and transmission mounts; see
Group 01 (Engine) and Group 26 (transmis-
sion). Check the coupling shaft’s midship bearing 05/27/93 f410012a
mounts. Replace mountings that are deteriorated Try to bend the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft up and
or oil-soaked; tighten loose mounting bolts. Oil- down, and from side to side.
soaked or deteriorated mountings,or loose Fig. 1, Check for Slip-Joint Spline Wear
mounting bolts, can cause driveline angular mis-
alignment. 7. Check each driveshaft for an indication of miss-
ing balance weights. If any weights appear to be
5. Check for loose U-joint bearing-cup-plate and missing, have the driveshaft balanced to a maxi-
bearing-strap capscrews. Tighten any loose fas- mum tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per 10 pounds
tener to the applicable torque value in Specifica- weight per end, at 3000 rpm.
tions 400.
8. Check each driveshaft for dents, bends, twists,
or other damage.

Troubleshooting
If damaged, jack up the rear axle, support it on NOTE: To disassemble the slip-joint, un-
jackstands, place the transmission in neutral, and couple the U-joint at one end of the drive-
turn the driveshaft by hand to check runout. shaft, unscrew the slip-joint seal from the
The driveshaft must be straight within 0.015 inch sleeve-yoke, then pull the sleeve-yoke and
(0.38 mm) on the slip-joint seal surface of the splined shaft apart. Reverse the procedure
splined shaft, 0.020 inch (0.51 mm) on the tube to assemble the slip-joint.
3 inch (76 mm) from the front and the rear
9.2 If no alignment marks are present, disas-
welds, and 0.025 inch (0.635 mm) at the center
semble the slip-joint, and reassemble it
of the tube. See Fig. 2.
with the U-joints in one of the two in-
If the driveshaft is not straight within specifica- phase positions (180 degrees apart).
tions, replace the tube. See Subject 150 for
Test drive the vehicle, then assemble the
runout specifications for a new (or rebuilt) drive-
shaft. slip-joint in the other in-phase position.
Test drive the vehicle again.
A A Determine which in-phase position pro-

vides vibration-free operation. Assemble
the slip-joint in the correct in-phase posi-
tion, and mark the slip-joint with align-
B ment marks.
9.3 If the U-joints are out of phase on a cou-
pling shaft, uncouple the U-joint from the
C D C coupling shaft end-yoke, then remove the
06/13/96 f410110b end-yoke nut. Remove the end-yoke, us-
ing a yoke puller. See Fig. 4 for a half-
A. Measurement: 3 inch (76 mm)
B. Measurement: 0.015 inch (0.38 mm)
round end-yoke, or see Fig. 5 for a full-
C. Measurement: 0.020 inch (0.51 mm) round end-yoke. Align the end-yoke, then
D. Measurement: 0.025 inch (0.635 mm) install it by hand. Install the end-yoke nut,
and tighten it 475 to 525 lbf·ft (645 to 710
Fig. 2, Runout Specifications for a Used Driveshaft N·m). Slightly back off the nut, and again
tighten it to the same torque. Couple the
9. Check each driveline for proper U-joint phasing. coupling shaft to the driveshaft U-joint.
See Fig. 3.
10. Check the torque on all of the end-yoke nuts in
9.1 On No. 2 and No. 3 driveshafts, if the the drivetrain; see the applicable torque values in
U-joints are out of phase, check the slip- Specifications 400.
joint for alignment marks. If necessary,
disassemble the slip-joint, and align the If any yoke nut was not at its specified torque,
marks. check the yoke for wear by trying to move it up
and down, and back and forth. If the yoke can be
rocked on its shaft, or moved in or out on its
shaft, replace the yoke and yoke nut. See Sub-
ject 150.
If the yoke is not worn, tighten the yoke nut to its
torque value.
A B
11. On single-drive vehicles:
Have the No. 2 driveshaft balanced to a maxi-
05/02/95 f410006b
mum tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per 10 pounds
A. In Phase B. Out of Phase weight per end, at 3000 rpm.
Fig. 3, U-Joint Phasing On dual-drive vehicles:

Troubleshooting
11.3 Have the No. 3 driveshaft balanced to a

maximum tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per
1 10 pounds weight per end, at 3000 rpm.
11.4 Have the No. 2 driveshaft balanced to a
maximum tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per
10 pounds weight per end, at 3000 rpm.
12. If so equipped, balance the coupling shaft(s) to a
maximum tolerance of 1 inch-ounce per 10
pounds weight per end, at 3000 rpm.
2
05/01/95
3 f410121b
1. Midship Bearing 3. Bearing Strap
2. Yoke Puller
Fig. 4, Remove a Half-Round End-Yoke from a

Coupling Shaft
3
1
05/08/95 f410014b
1. Yoke Puller 3. Midship Bearing

2. Full-Round Yoke
Fig. 5, Remove a Full-Round End-Yoke from a

Coupling Shaft
11.1 Remove the No. 3 driveline; then, with

the interaxle differential locked, test drive
the vehicle.
11.2 If vibration still exists, install the No. 3
driveline, then have the No. 2 driveshaft
balanced to a maximum tolerance of 1
inch-ounce per 10 pounds weight per
end, at 3000 rpm.
If no vibration exists, check that both rear
axle gear ratios are matched. If the gear
ratios do not match, replace one of the
gear sets with a gear set having the cor-
rect ratio, then install the No. 3 driveline.

Specifications
Fastener Torques
Description Size Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
End-Yoke Nut
RT 8609 1-1/2–18 400–450 (542–610)
T/X 14607
RT 8608 /7608LL
RTO 11909MLL /14909MLL /11908LL
RTX 16709 /15710 /16710
Fuller
RT/X 11609 /11709 /12609 /12709 /13609 /13709 2–16 450–500 (610–678)
/14609 /14709 /11710 /12710 /13710 /14710
Transmission
Output Shaft RTO/X 11708LL /14708LL
RT/O/X 14715 /15715
RTLO 12610 /13610 /14610 /15610 /16610 /12713
/14713 /16713 /14718 /16718 /18718
RM/O/X 9–115 /–125 /–135 /–145 /–155
Meritor RM/X 10–115 /–125 /–135 /–145 /–155 /–165 2–16 450–500 (610–678)
RMO 13–145
Allison HD Series 2–16 600–800 (813–1085)
Single Axle Input Eaton 23105S/D, 23080S/D 1-3/4–12 840–1020 (1139–1383)
Shaft Meritor RS–21–160 /–23–160 /–23–161 /–23–185 /–25–160 M45 x 1.5 996–1232 (1350–1670)
DT 402/P, DS/DD 404/P, DT/DP 451P 1-5/8–18 780–960 (1058–1302)
Eaton
Forward-Rear Axle DP/DS/DT 461P 1-7/8–12 840–1020 (1139–1383)
Input Shaft RT–40–145 /–44–145 M39 x 1.5 922–1132 (1250–1535)
Meritor
RT–46–160 M45 x 1.5 996–1232 (1350–1670)
DT 402/P, DS/DD 404/P, DT/DP 451P 1-1/4–12 480–600 (651–813)
Forward-Rear Axle Eaton
DP/DS/DT 461P 1-3/4–12 840–1020 (1139–1383)
Output Shaft
Meritor RT–40–145 /–44–145 /–46–160 M39 x 1.5 600–700 (815–950)
DT 402/P, DS/DD 404/P, DT/DP 451P 1-1/2–18 560–700 (759–949)
Eaton
Rearmost Axle DP/DS/DT 461P 1-3/4–12 840–1020 (1139–1383)
Input Shaft RT–40–145 /–44–145 M39 x 1.5 922–1132 (1250–1535)
Meritor
RT–46–160 M45 x 1.5 996–1232 (1350–1670)
Midship Bearing (Coupling Shaft) 1-1/4–18 475–525 (645–710)
U-Joint Capscrew
Bearing Plate (for full-round yoke) 3/8–24 43 (49)
Bearing Strap (for half-round yoke) 1/2–20 125 (169)
RPL U-joints 1/2–20 125 (169)
Midship Bearing Locknut
Bracket to Crossmember 1/2–13 91 (123)

Specifications
Fastener Torques
Description Size Torque: lbf·ft (N·m)
Bearing Mount to Bracket 1/2–13 91 (123)
Table 1, Fastener Torques

Driveline Angularity and Balance 41.01
General Information
Driveline Angularity Driveline angularity may be adversely affected if rear

suspension U-bolts are loose or broken; rear springs
are broken, shifted, or mismatched; spring seats are
The most important consideration of driveline angu-
broken; frame rails are bent, twisted, or broken; or
larity is the U-joint working angle. A U-joint working
transmission or engine mounts are loose or deterio-
angle is the angle formed by the intersection of the
rated.
driveshaft centerline and the extended centerline of
the shaft of any component to which the U-joint con-
nects. See Fig. 1. Because the action of a U-joint U-Joint Phasing
causes a fluctuating speed difference between the
shafts it connects, the effect created by the U-joint at The fluctuating speed difference, caused by the ac-
the input-shaft end-yoke must cancel the effect cre- tion of a U-joint connecting angled shafts, can be
ated by the U-joint at the output-shaft end-yoke. This cancelled only if the U-joint at the other end of the
is done by making the U-joint working angles at both driveshaft is in phase with that U-joint (and the
ends of the driveshaft approximately equal, with the U-joint working angles are approximately equal). If
U-joints in phase. the yoke lugs at both ends of the driveshaft are lying
The U-joint working angles may be made approxi- in the same plane (a plane that bisects the shaft
mately equal by either of two basic arrangements: a lengthwise) the U-joints will be in phase. See Fig. 3.
parallel arrangement (Fig. 1), or an intersecting ar-
rangement (Fig. 2).
1 2 A
3
04/25/95 f410045a
A. Equal U-Joint Working Angles B. Parallel Centerlines

1. Transmission 2. No. 2 Driveshaft 3. Rear Axle
Fig. 1, Parallel Arrangement for Single-Drive Vehicles
1
2 B
3 4 C 5
A
A B
07/24/95 f410031a
A. Parallel Centerlines B. Equal U-Joint Working Angles C. Intersecting Centerlines
1. Transmission 3. Forward-Rear Axle 5. Rearmost Axle
2. No. 2 Driveshaft 4. No. 3 Driveshaft
Fig. 2, Intersecting Planing Arrangements for Dual-Drive Vehicles

41.01 Driveline Angularity and Balance
General Information
NOTE: Some driveshafts are designed and shaft is checked for out-of-roundness, and straight-
phased with their end yokes clocked 90 degrees ened as necessary; then each shaft is dynamically
from each other. This is referred to as cross balanced.
phasing. If the driveshaft slip-joint is disassembled for any rea-
son, the sleeve-yoke and splined shaft should be
marked for assembly alignment. Misaligned slip-joints
will seriously affect the U-joint phasing and balance
of the driveline. Even if the slip-joint is assembled
180 degrees from its original position (which will
keep the U-joints in phase), the dynamic balance of
the driveshaft will be negatively affected.
A driveline can become unbalanced or greatly weak-
A ened if a driveshaft has been dented, bent, twisted,
or otherwise damaged. Operating a vehicle at
speeds that exceed the speed of the driveshaft’s de-
sign specifications will cause an out-of-balance vibra-
tion. Loose end-yoke nuts, loose midship bearing or
auxiliary transmission mounts, loose bearing retainer
capscrews, worn U-joint trunnions or bearings, and
worn slip-joint splines can lead to excessive move-
ment of the driveshaft and cause driveline imbalance.
B
Midship Bearings
A long driveshaft, supported only at its ends, will sag
in the middle from its own weight. When turning at
high rpm, it will flex, causing an out-of-balance vibra-
tion. Therefore, most vehicles having a long wheel-
base use a midship bearing, mounted on a cross-
member in the frame, for additional driveline support.
C See Fig. 4. This allows the driveshaft to be sepa-
rated into two shorter shafts, thus improving balance
and stability.
05/21/2008 f410525
Angularity Standards and
C. Out of Phase Drivetrain Configuration
Fig. 3, Driveline U-Joint Phasing The U-joints require a minimum working angle of 1/2
degree to ensure needle-roller movement in the
To ensure that the U-joints turn in phase, the sleeve- U-joint bearings. Without this movement, brinelling of
yoke and splined shaft of driveshaft slip-joints, and the trunnion bearing-contact surfaces would occur.
the coupling shaft and midship bearing end-yoke, Suspension movement causes driveshaft angles to
should be marked for assembly reference before dis- change (and therefore, needle-roller movement) in
assembly. both of the U-joints attached to driveshafts that con-
nect to the axles. However, no angle change occurs
Driveline Balance in the U-joints attached to a driveshaft that connects
the main transmission to a midship bearing or auxil-
After manufacture, each driveline yoke is statically iary transmission. Their working angles must be es-
balanced. After assembly of the slip-joint, each drive- tablished during installation.

General Information
1
2 3
4 5
A
B
A
C
05/08/95 f410054a
A. Parallel Centerlines C. Working Angles Unequal by 1/2
B. 1/2 to 1 Degree to 1 Degree
1. Main Transmission 3. Midship Bearing 5. Rear Axle
2. Coupling Shaft 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
Fig. 4, Midship Bearing in a Single-Drive Vehicle
When a midship bearing is included in the drivetrain, Every U-joint has a maximum working angle, deter-
it is installed so that the centerline of the coupling mined by the design and size of its cross assembly
shaft is in horizontal (side-to-side) alignment within and yokes. Exceeding the maximum working angle
1/2 degree, and within 1/2 to 1 degree of vertical can cause rapid U-joint wear, or in severe cases, de-
alignment, with the centerline of the main transmis- struction of the U-joint. For smooth operation and
sion output shaft. See Fig. 4. long drivetrain component life, the U-joint working
angles must be kept small and approximately equal
When an auxiliary transmission is included in the
for each shaft.
drivetrain, it is installed so that the centerline of the
inter-transmission (no. 1) driveline is in exact hori- The U-joint working angles may be made approxi-
zontal (side-to-side) alignment (within 1/2 degree), mately equal by either of two basic arrangements: a
and down 1/2 to 1 degree from vertical alignment, parallel arrangement (Fig. 1) or an intersecting ar-
with the centerline of the main transmission output rangement (Fig. 2). The parallel arrangement con-
shaft. Further, the auxiliary transmission thru-shaft sists of installing the drivetrain components so that
centerline must be parallel (horizontally and verti- all of the input, output, and thru-shaft centerlines are
cally) to the centerline of the main transmission out- approximately parallel. The intersecting arrangement
put shaft, in order to achieve equal working angles. (used only for some interaxle drivelines) consists of
See Fig. 5. installing the drive components so that the rearmost
1 3
2 4 5 C 7
6
B
A A A
07/24/95 f410052a
A. Parallel Centerlines B. 1/2 to 1 Degree C. Intersecting Centerlines
1. Main Transmission 4. No. 2 Driveshaft 6. No. 3 Driveshaft
2. No. 1 Driveline 5. Forward-Rear Axle 7. Rearmost Axle
3. Auxiliary Transmission
Fig. 5, Auxiliary Transmission in a Dual-Drive Vehicle

General Information
axle pinion shaft’s extended centerline intersects the shaft unsatisfactory. For those drivetrain configura-
forward-rear axle thru-shaft’s extended centerline ap- tions, it is necessary to use a modified parallel or
proximately midway between the U-joints, when all of modified-intersecting arrangement for the no. 3 drive-
the other shafts (including the forward-rear axle thru- shaft.
shaft) are approximately parallel.
On drivetrain configurations that require a modified
All single-drive vehicles, and the forward-rear axles parallel arrangement, the rearmost-axle pinion shaft
of dual-drive vehicles, use the parallel arrangement. centerline is placed at an angle that is 2 degrees
Rearmost axles of dual-drive vehicles may use the higher above horizontal than are the other input and
parallel arrangement or the intersecting arrangement, output shafts. See Fig. 7.
depending on the drivetrain configuration.
On drivetrain configurations that require a modified-
The specific drivetrain configuration of each Freight- intersecting arrangement, the "proper" intersecting
liner vehicle consists of its wheelbase, number and angle is determined, then the rearmost-axle pinion
type of axles, axle spacing, type of suspension, and shaft centerline is placed at an angle that is 2 de-
number of transmissions. The specific drivetrain con- grees closer to horizontal than the "proper" intersect-
figuration determines the driveline arrangement and ing angle. See Fig. 8.
required installation angles of all the vehicle’s driv-
The axle pinion angles for all suspensions are
etrain components.
factory-set for correct driveline angularity. On Freight-
The simplest drivetrain configuration consists of a liner spring suspensions, tapered axle planing shims
single short driveline connecting a main transmission at the springs maintain the correct axle pinion angle.
to a single-drive axle, in a parallel arrangement. This On Hendrickson suspensions, spacers at the torque
driveshaft is always referred to as the no. 2 drive- rods are used to maintain the correct axle pinion
shaft. The parallel arrangement always used on angles.
single-drive vehicles is shown in Fig. 1.
In the field, whenever axle or suspension compo-
On dual-drive vehicles that have both axle input nents are changed, the axle pinion angles may also
shafts of approximately the same height, a parallel change. If this occurs, contact your district service
arrangement is used. The driveshaft connecting the manager for the correct axle pinion angle adjustment
main (or auxiliary) transmission to the forward-rear procedure.
axle is always referred to as the no. 2 driveshaft; and
the interaxle driveshaft is always referred to as the
no. 3 driveshaft. See Fig. 6, which shows a parallel
arrangement when used on dual-drive vehicles.
Most dual-drive vehicles have a high thru-shaft on
the forward-rear axle, and a low pinion on the rear-
most axle. When the vehicle is on level ground, the
interaxle (no. 3) driveshaft may create very sharp
U-joint working angles with the input and output
shafts when they are parallel. In normal driving, the
U-joints could momentarily exceed their maximum
working angle, and driveline or drivetrain damage
could result. By using an intersecting arrangement at
the no. 3 driveshaft, smaller U-joint working angles
are created, promoting longer U-joint life and re-
duced driveline vibration. An intersecting arrange-
ment used on dual-drive vehicles is shown in Fig. 2.
However, some axle spacings, axle models, and sus-
pension designs allow additional axle movement or
axle windup that requires additional clearances be-
tween the driveshaft and the frame or suspension
components, or that creates other conditions that
make the intersecting arrangement of the no. 3 drive-

General Information
1
2 B
3 4
5
A
A
B A
09/14/95 f410053a
A. Parallel Centerlines B. Equal U-Joint Working Angles

Fig. 6, Parallel Arrangement for Dual-Drive Vehicles
1
2 B
3 C
4 5
A
A D
07/24/95 f410056a
A. Parallel Centerlines C. Modified-Parallel Centerlines
B. Equal U-Joint Working Angles D. U-Joint Working Angles Not Equal by 2 Degrees
Fig. 7, Modified-Parallel Arrangement for Dual-Drive Vehicles
1
2 B C 5
3 4
A
A D
07/24/95 f410055a
A. Parallel Centerlines C. Modified-Intersecting Centerlines

B. Equal U-Joint Working Angles D. U-Joint Working Angles Not Equal by 2 Degrees
Fig. 8, Modified-Intersecting Arrangement for Dual-Drive Vehicles

Engine and Pinion Angle Measurement
Engine and Pinion Angle See Section 41.00 for full-round end-yoke bear-
ing cup removal.
Measurement 5. Turn the end-yoke until the machined surface of
the yoke lug is horizontal. See Fig. 2.
Before checking the pinion angles or engine angle,
check that the engine and transmission mounts are
tight and in good condition. Loose or deteriorated
mounts will cause inaccurate readings.
1
IMPORTANT: When using a digital angle ana-
lyzer (DAA), be sure to always take readings
from the same side of the vehicle. Also, keep 2
the same end of the DAA pointed toward the
front of the truck.
Using a DAA (Fig. 1), measure the engine angle,
driveshaft angles, and pinion angles. Read all angles 10/15/2001 f410495
to the nearest one-tenth of a degree (6 minutes). NOTE: Full-round end-yoke is shown.
1. Digital Angle Analyzer
2. End-Yoke
Fig. 2, Horizontal Positioning of Yoke Lug Machined

Surface
NOTE: To turn the driveshaft, raise one side of

the rear (single-drive) or rearmost (dual-drive)
10/03/2001 f410490 axle until the tires are off the ground. Place a
safety stand under the axle. With the transmis-
Fig. 1, Digital Angle Analyzer sion in neutral, and the interaxle differential (if
After adjustment of any driveline angle, check the equipped) unlocked, turn the tire to move the
angle again. Also, verify ride height if the vehicle has driveshaft.
an air suspension. 6. Adjust the DAA to read 0 degrees. Position the
To measure the engine angle (transmission output- DAA alongside the U-joint trunnion, on the ma-
shaft angle) or axle pinion angles, do the following: chined surface of the end-yoke, and at a 90-
degree angle to the frame centerline. See Fig. 2.
1. Inflate the vehicle tires to their normal operating Then turn the end-yoke until the bubble in the
pressure. level vial is exactly between the two marks on
2. Park the unloaded vehicle on a level surface. Do the vial. Remove the jack stand and lower the
not try to level the vehicle frame by jacking the rear axle to the ground.
front or rear axles. If the frame cannot be leveled 7. Without changing the position of the end-yoke,
from front to rear, determine and record the off- turn the DAA until it is parallel to the frame cen-
level inclination of the frame, and add or subtract terline. See Fig. 3. Adjust the calibrated scale so
that value from the measured values. the bubble is exactly between the two marks on
3. Chock the tires and place the transmission in the level vial. Record the calibrated scale reading
neutral. Release the parking brakes. opposite the "0" mark. Correct this value for any
previously recorded off-level inclination.
4. The transmission output-shaft, coupling-shaft,
and axle input- and output-yoke angles can be 8. For a full-round end-yoke, install the bearing cup.
measured at either the top or bottom lug of the See Section 41.00 for full-round end-yoke bear-
end-yoke being checked. For a full-round end- ing cup installation.
yoke, remove the bearing cup from the yoke lug.

Engine and Pinion Angle Measurement
10/15/2001 f410487
NOTE: Full-round end-yoke is shown.
1. Digital Angle Analyzer
2. End-Yoke
3. Transmission
Fig. 3, Measuring Pinion Angles

Driveline Angle Checking
Driveline Angle Checking 2. If the driveline includes a midship bearing, place

a digital angle analyzer (DAA) on top of the cou-
pling shaft. Align the DAA with the shaft center-
NOTE: Driveline suppliers have made angle line. See Fig. 2. Read the scale to the nearest
checking software availble. Contact your local one-tenth of a degree (6 minutes). The centerline
driveline representative or check the manufac- of the coupling shaft must be 1/2 degree out of
turers website for the software. Angles need to vertical alignment with the transmission output
be mearsure at the locations shown in Fig. 1. shaft. See Fig. 3. Compare this reading with the
If a vehicle is equipped with a Freightliner spring sus- measured engine angle.
pension, the axle pinion angles are factory-set using If the driveline angles are out of specification,
alignment shims at the rear springs. These shims contact your district service manager for midship
have notches on the thick end of the shim. Count the bearing mount adjusting procedures.
number of notches in the thick end of each shim to
make sure that the correct shim is used. Also, make 3. On single-drive installations, measure the rear
sure the thick end of the shim is positioned correctly. axle pinion angle at the back of the no. 2 drive-
See the applicable table in Specifications, 400 for line; for instructions, see Subject 100.
shim identification and use. If the axle pinion angles The measured rear axle pinion angle must be
on these suspensions are incorrect, contact your dis- equal ±1 degree to the measured engine angle.
trict service manager for the adjustment procedure. If the rear axle pinion angle does not meet the
If the vehicle is equipped with an air suspension, above specification, contact your district service
verify ride height is correct. See Group 32. manager.
If a vehicle is equipped with a Hendrickson suspen- 4. On dual-drive installations, measure the forward-
sion, spacers at the torque rods are used to maintain rear-axle pinion angle (at the rear of the no. 2
the correct axle pinion angles. If the measured axle driveline); for instructions, see Subject 100.
pinion angles on these suspensions are not the The measured forward-rear-axle pinion angle
same as the angles listed in the applicable table in must be equal ±1 degree to the measured en-
Specifications, 400, contact your district service gine angle. If the forward-rear-axle pinion angle
manager for the adjustment procedure. does not meet the above specification, contact
NOTE: In any of the following steps, if an off- your district service manager.
level inclination was added to or subtracted from Measure the rearmost-axle pinion angle (at the
the engine angle, the same figure must be rear of the no. 3 driveline); for instructions, see
added to or subtracted from the coupling shaft Subject 100.
or axle pinion reading before comparing the Compare the measured angle with that shown in
angles. Also, avoid inperfections in paint. the applicable table in Specifications 400. The
IMPORTANT: DO NOT make any driveline angle measured rearmost-axle pinion angle must be
adjustments before contacting your district ser- equal ±1 degree to the angle shown in the table.
vice manager. If the measured angle is incorrect, contact your
district service manager.
1. Check the engine angle at the transmission
output-shaft end-yoke. The engine angle must be
3 degrees ±1/2 degree. For instructions, see
Subject 100.
IMPORTANT: When using a digital angle ana-
lyzer (DAA), be sure to always take readings
from the same side of the vehicle. Also, keep
the same end of the DAA pointed toward the
front of the truck.

Driveline Angle Checking
F
E
A B
C
D
10/03/2001 f410489
A. Tranmission C. Second Driveshaft E. Inter-Axle Driveshaft
B. First Driveshaft D. Rear Drive Axle F. Rear Drive Axle (rear-most)
Fig. 1, Driveline Angle Analysis (measuring locations)
1 3
2 4
10/03/2001 f410488
1. Transmission 3. Digital Angle Analyzer (DAA)

2. Coupling Shaft 4. Midship Bearing
Fig. 2, Coupling Shaft Angularity
1
2 3
4 5
A B
C
05/08/95 f410005a
A. 1/2-Degree Minimum C. Working Angles Unequal by 1/2
B. Parallel Centerlines to 1 Degree
1. Transmission 3. Midship Bearing 5. Rear Axle
2. Coupling Shaft 4. No. 2 Driveshaft
Fig. 3, Midship Bearing in a Single-Drive Vehicle

Specifications
Planing Angle Specifications Dual-Drive-Axle—Hendrickson Suspensions With 52-

Inch Axle Spacing: Adjust axle pinion angles to the
values in Table 4, ±1 degree.
Engine Angle (for All Single-Drive-Axle Suspensions):
Adjust to 3 or 5 degrees ±1/2 degree depending on Dual-Drive-Axle—Hendrickson Suspensions With 54-
vehicle specification in modules 101 and 109. Inch Axle Spacing: Adjust axle pinion angles to the
Engine Angle (for All Dual-Drive-Axle Suspensions): values in Table 5, ±1 degree.
Adjust to 3-1/2 or 5 degrees ±1/2 degree depending Dual-Drive-Axle—Hendrickson Suspensions With 56-
on vehicle specification in modules 101 and 109. Inch Axle Spacing: Adjust axle pinion angles to the
Single-Drive-Axle Suspensions (All): Adjust rear axle
pinion angle to 3 or 5 degrees ±1 degree depending Dual-Drive-Axle—Hendrickson Suspensions With 60-
on vehicle specification in modules 420 and 431. Inch Axle Spacing: Adjust axle pinion angles to the
Dual-Drive-Axle—Freightliner AirLiner Suspensions
With Meritor RT–40/–44/–46 Axles: Adjust axle pinion Dual-Drive-Axle—Hendrickson Suspensions With
angles to the values in Table 1, ±1 degree. 72.5-Inch Axle Spacing: Adjust axle pinion angles to
Dual-Drive-Axle—Freightliner Spring Suspensions the values in Table 8, ±1 degree.
(with Meritor RT–40/–44/–46 Axles): Adjust axle pin- Business Class M2 Single Spring Suspension Ride
ion angles to the values in Table 2, ±1 degree. See Heights and Planning Angles in Table 9.
Table 3 for shim notch decoding.
Freightliner AirLiner Suspensions With Meritor RT–40/–44/–46 Axles

Rear Suspension Load (pounds)
Axle Seat Measured
Angle Suspension Unladen 30,000 34,000 36,000 40,000
(degrees) Height * Axle Pinion Angle (degrees)
(Inches)
Fwd Rear Fwd Rear Fwd Rear Fwd Rear Fwd Rear Fwd Rear
2.375 (min) 2.1 10.6 3.0 11.5 3.2 11.7 3.3 11.8 3.5 12.0
2.5 2.4 10.9 3.3 11.8 3.5 12.0 3.6 12.1 3.7 12.2
3.0 5.5 2.625 2.7 11.2 3.6 12.1 3.8 12.3 3.8 12.3 4.0 12.5
2.75 2.9 11.4 3.9 12.4 4.0 12.5 4.1 12.6 4.3 12.8
2.87 (max) 3.2 11.7 4.2 12.7 4.3 12.8 4.4 12.9 4.6 13.1
* Measure suspension height at the forward drive-axle stop on the driver’s side; see Section 32.04 for complete instructions.
Table 1, Freightliner AirLiner Suspensions With Meritor RT-40/-44/-46 Axles
Freightliner Spring Suspensions (with Meritor RT–40/–44/–46 Axles)

Forward-Rear Axle Rearmost Axle
Axle Pinion Spring Shim Orientation Number Pinion Spring Shim Orientation Number
Model Angle Seat Angle of Shim’s of Shim Angle Seat Angle of Shim’s of Shim
(degrees) Spacer (degrees) Thick End Notches (degrees) Spacer (degrees) Thick End Notches
* †
RT– 3.0 Yes None — — 11.0 None 1.0 Aft 2

40/–
44/–46
* See Table 3 for shim notch decoding.
† See Table 3 for shim notch decoding.
Table 2, Freightliner Spring Suspensions (with Meritor RT-40/-44/-46 Axles)
Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 1, April 2002 400/1

Specifications
07/19/2006 f320426
Shim Angle A (degrees) Notches (N) at X Notches (N) at Y

0.5 One
(total at x plus y)
1.0 Two none
1.5 Three none
2.0 Four
(total at x plus y)
2.5 Five
(total at x plus y)
3.0 Six
(total at x plus y)
3.5 Zero Zero
4.0 One One
4.5 Two One
Table 3, Shim Notch Decoding
Hendrickson Suspensions With 52-Inch Axle Spacing

Planing Angle (degrees) Suspension Control Rod
Saddle Unladen Laden Forward Axle Rear Axle
Suspension
Axle Model Height
Model Rod Spacer Rod Spacer
(inches)
Front Rear Front Rear Length Thickness Length Thickness
(inches) (inches) (inches) (inches)
RT40/44–145(P) RS–400, –460 12.88 3.2 11.6 3.0 11.8 22.5 — 25.75 0.125
RT40/44–145(P) RS–400, –460 14 3.3 11.5 3.0 11.8 22.5 — 25.75 —
RT40/44–145(P) RT2–400 7.19 4.2 12.6 3.0 11.8 22.25 — 25.75 —
RT40/44–145(P) RT2–460 6 4.4 12.6 3.0 11.8 22.5 0.125 25.75 —
RT40/44–145(P) RT2–460 7.19 2.8 10.8 3.0 11.8 22.5 — 26 0.125
400/2 Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 1, April 2002

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Rear Axle Wheel Hubs, Brake Drums, and Wheel

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Fig. 2, Identifying a ConMet PreSet Hub

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Fig. 1, Typical Drive Axle and Hub Assembly (exploded view)

5. Remove the safety stands from under the axle;

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NOTE: Pilot pad at 12 o’clock position

Fig. 2, Hub Pilot Pads

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Removal surfaces of the wheel hub assembly, including

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Replacement Constant, smooth movement of the wheel stud is

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Fig. 2, Thread Stamp Location

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Problem — Broken Wheel or Rim Studs

Problem — Damaged Hub

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Problem — Loss of Lubricant From the Wheel Hubs

Problem — Service Brakes Grab or Pull

Problem — Poor Lining-to-Drum Contact

300/2 Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002

Problem — Brake Linings Are Tapered Across the Width

Problem — Brake Shoes on the Same Brake Are Wearing Unequally

Problem — Edge of the Lining Is Showing Wear

Problem — Brake Linings Are Scored or Grooved

Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002 300/3

Problem — Brake Linings Are Loose

Problem — Brake Lining is Cracked at the Rivet Holes or Bolt Holes

Problem — Out-of-Round Rivet Holes or Bolt Holes

Problem — Brake Drums Are Heat-Checked

300/4 Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002

Problem — Brake Drums Are Heavily Scored

Problem — Excessive Brake Lining Wear

Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002 300/5

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General Information • Dana Spicer (Outrunner™)

Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002 050/1

Fig. 1, Chicago Rawhide Scotseal

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1. Dana Spicer Outrunner Installation Tool

Fig. 2, Dana Spicer Outrunner Seal

Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002 050/3

Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002 100/1

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NOTE: Rear hub shown.

Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002 100/3

Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002 110/1

4.5 Inspect the bearings and hub components

1 Fig. 4, Seal Placement on Tool

110/2 Business Class M2 Workshop Manual, Supplement 0, January 2002