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Unit I SPREADING AND CUTTING MACHINES
Objectives of Spreading – Spreading types - Study of automatic spreading machine. Types

of Cutting machines – Straight Knife, Band Knife, Round knife, Die Cutting and Laser Cutting
- Brief study about computerized cutting machine
Objectives of Spreading:
Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting table or specially designed surface in
preparation for the cutting process.
A spread or Lay-up is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker.
Methods:-
1. Spreading By Hand
2. Spreading Using a Travelling Machine
Types of Fabric Spreading:

The spreads can be of two basic types:
Flat spreads: All plies are of the same length.

Stepped spreads: This as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with all the plies in one step having the same length. A
stepped spread is generally used when the quantities to be cut precludes the use of a flat spread. The cut order plan details the
colors and ply lengths for a stepped spread, if it is needed.
Study of automatic spreading machine:

Types of Cutting machines:
Semi automatic cutting machines:
Straight Knife, Band Knife, Round knife, Die Cutters.
Fully automatic cutting machine:
Laser Cutting machine, computerized cutting machine.
Study on Straight knife cutting machine:

Theory:
It is the most useful cutting instrument in apparel cutting. In apparel industry, more than 99% cases this knife is used. This
machine is called straight knife cutting machine because its cutter is straight in shape. It is used for both woven & knit fabric. In
this machine different types of straight knife are used according to the different cutting objects. This machine provides good
efficiency.
Working principle: Two kind of power are required to operate a straight knife.
Motor power drives the reciprocating blade.
Operator power drives the knife through the lay.
The motor power needed is determined by

Height of the lay.
The construction of the fabric.
The curvature of the line being cut.
The stroke of the blade.
The greater the power of the motor the heavier will be the machine. The taller stand, the thicker its cross-section and the
greater its width, adding resistance to the forward movement on a curve. The greater the blade movement the faster the
blade cuts the fabric and the more rapidly and easily the operator can push the machine. Operator effort is affected by the
weight of the motor, the shape of the stand, handle height, stroke, sharpness of blade and the effect of the base plate rollers
on the table surface.
Advantages:-
1. Easily available
2. Cheaper
3. Can be used for various types of fabrics & styles
4. Knife blades are easily available & replaceable
5. Have the option of changing the blade size within a machine
Disadvantages:-
1. Problem with sharp turns

2. Not very safe for the operator
3. It has a issue of grip on the fabric (stretchable fabrics)
Study on Band knife cutting machine:

Feature or working principle:
A band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by an electric motor with a continuous rotating steel blade
mounted on them.
The principal of operation is different from a straight or around knife in that the band knife passes in a fixed position and the
selected of lay to be cut is moving past it.
Band knife cutting m/c
1. Cutting knife is endless in shape and flexible.

2. A blade is usually narrower than with a straight knife and there is no standard behind it.
3. A band knife work place may be so arranged that the operator either pushes or pulls the selection of lay towards the
knife.
4. In this method m/c stationary, but fabric movable.
5. This is like seeing the mill cutter.
The band knife machine has the following main parts:
1. Bodywork,
2. Band knife,
3. Motor,
4. Work surface, and
5. Knife sharpener.
Advantages:-
1. Speed is high
2. Precision cutting
3. Easier to cut very small pieces of pattern
4. Cutting of single layer or multiple layers can be done easily
5. Possible to cut in 90° angle the fabric lay
Disadvantages:-
1. Expensive
2. Power loses high
3. More space is required
4. Safety is a major issue
5. Maintenance is difficult comparatively
Study on round knife cutting machine:
Introduction: round knife cutting are used for fabric cutting in the garments factories. Through it is not used as commonly as
the straight knife cutting machine but for some specific purpose round knife cutting machine is normally we for small
production.
Figure:-
round knife
Machine parts:
1. Handle
2. Motor
3. Power switch
4. Blade
5. Threat plate
6. Base plate
7. Central handle
8. Power supply
9. Sharpner push rood button
10. Locking disc
11. Guard
12. Grease inlet
13. Emery wheel
Procedure;
1. We observed the working system, along with the machine parts of the machine
2. We took some fabric and cut it by the help of the machine
3. As well as we know about the machine carefully
Advantages:-
* Larger surface area in contact with the fabric, so better grip.
Disadvantages:-
* Ply cutting is staggered (not uniform in all plies)
* V-necks, scoop necks, steep curve cutting is almost impossible.
* Knife clearance area (KCA) required is very high
* Lay height should not be more than the radius of blade
* Costlier than straight knife
* Changing of blade is difficult
Conclusion: Normally round knife machine is used for small production. It is handing operation is easy. But it is RPM is Low. By
the experiment about this machine.
Study on Die cutting machine:
Working Principle:
Die is prepared with metal strip according to the shape of pattern. Steel strip and forged die are used as metal strip. One end
of the strip is sharpened and tie bar is placed to the other end. The die press generally has a cutting arm supported be a single
pillar at the back of the machine. It swings to the side to allow the placing of dies on top of the fabric. The downward cutting
stroke of the press should be so controlled that the edge of the die just penetrates the cutting pads or surface in order that
fibers of the lowest ply are completely separated. The spread is cut into sections to allow transport to cutting the pad. The gap
between the two dies 2 to 4 mm are placed when dye is placed on fabric lay.
Features or machine description:

1 The main components of die cutting machine is-
 Cutting table,
 Ram head,
 Die,
 Motor,
 Method of driving ram,
 Controlling arrangement of ram height.
2 Die cutting machine is mainly two types-
 Clickers,
 Presses.
3 The die is a knife in the shape of a pattern periphery including notches.
4 It involves pressing a rigid blade through the lay of fabric.
Die cutting
Advantages:
 It provides a high standard of accuracy of cutting.
 Die cutting offers much faster cutting than knife cutting.
 Suitable for knitted fabric.
 Suitable for cutting sharp corners.
Disadvantages:
 Not suitable for higher production.
 The capital cost of large area die presses is high.
 Greater uses of fabric in machine i.e. more fabric wastage.
 Power lose is high.
 Labor cost is high.
Study on Laser cutting machine:
Laser Cutter
Laser cutting works by directing the output of a high power laser, by computer, at the fabric to be cut. The material then either
melts, burns, vaporizes away, or is blown away by a jet of gas, leaving an edge with a high quality surface finish.
Principle
✓ A laser produces a beam of light which can be forced onto a very small spot (0.25mm), producing a very high energy density.
The energy transfers to the material upon which it is focused, producing a rapid increase in temperature.
✓ Cutting takes place by vaporization.
✓ Charring of the fabric is prevented by the use of a jet of inert gas which also removes debris & smoke from the cutting area.
✓ A laser beam does not become blunt but it does suffer with limited depth of focus.
Laser cuts with incredible speed
Study on computerized cutting machine:

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Unit I SPREADING AND CUTTING MACHINES

Objectives of Spreading – Spreading types - Study of automatic spreading machine. Types

Types of Fabric Spreading:

Flat spreads: All plies are of the same length.

Study of automatic spreading machine:

Study on Straight knife cutting machine:

The motor power needed is determined by

1. Problem with sharp turns

Study on Band knife cutting machine:

Band knife cutting m/c

1. Cutting knife is endless in shape and flexible.

3. Easier to cut very small pieces of pattern

4. Cutting of single layer or multiple layers can be done easily

5. Possible to cut in 90° angle the fabric lay

2. Power loses high

3. More space is required

4. Safety is a major issue

5. Maintenance is difficult comparatively

Study on round knife cutting machine:

Features or machine description:

✓ Cutting takes place by vaporization.

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