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Seji Hong's sundubu jiggae (spicy tofu and seafood stew)
Seji Hong’s sundubu jiggae, or spicy tofu and seafood stew. Photograph: Louise Hagger/Octopus Books. Food styling: Jake Fenton. Prop styling: Max Robinson.
Seji Hong’s sundubu jiggae, or spicy tofu and seafood stew. Photograph: Louise Hagger/Octopus Books. Food styling: Jake Fenton. Prop styling: Max Robinson.

Seji Hong’s recipe for sundubu jjigae, or spicy Korean tofu and seafood stew

A big, Korean hug in a bubbling stew of seafood, tofu, garlic, chilli and an egg for good measure

In the vast and varied realm that is Korean cuisine, the bubbling jjigae reigns supreme. This family of hot stews and flavourful broths are mainstays of home and restaurant kitchens alike, and of all of them, sundubu jjigae, a fiery, silken tofu stew, is a perennial favourite.

Thanks to its frequent appearances in Korean dramas and films, sundubu jjigae has even become something of a global phenomenon. The sight of those protagonists sweating over their spicy soup piques the curiosity of overseas viewersabout our cuisine, and they head to their local Korean restaurants to try it. And with the increasing appetite for K-food, especially among the younger generation, it’s no wonder this is now considered one of the key representative dishes of our culinary culture.

Korean food, which is renowned for its generous portions and communal dining, is generally associated with comfort and connection, but sundubu jjigae presents a rather different proposition. Usually served individually in small pots, it is a stark contrast to the shared feasts that characterise our cooking, and for me, at least, it somehow represents loneliness. Living away from home in London, I often find myself drawn to the restaurants of Europe’s largest ex-pat Korean community in New Malden, south London, for this taste of home. There’s nothing quite like a bowl filled with precious memories and affection in a cosy, steamy room, especially on a chilly day, to ease my sense of isolation and narrow the distance from my family. The silken tofu trembles in the bubbling broth, the aromas of garlic, chilli and seafood fill the air, and the egg slowly mingles with the spicy soup.

It’s a comforting, warm embrace with a soul-soothing hot kick – and, thanks to a list of ingredients that you can pick up in just about any large supermarket, the ideal one-pot dish with which to replicate the flavours of Korea at home.

There are two types of tofu, firm and soft, and it’s important to use soft, or silken tofu here, because the best part is when you crush the delicate, custard-like bean curd with your spoon. The spring onions and gochugaru, sauteed in sesame oil, add a satisfying heat – simply adjust the amounts to your liking. It’s also easy to customise to suit your taste: add some pork mince or pork belly to make a heartier, heavier stew, say, or take it down a vegetarian/vegan route by omitting the seafood and fish sauce and using sliced mushrooms and extra soy sauce instead – I love shiitake here, but any variety will work well.

Whether you’re a seasoned cook or a kitchen novice, this stew is a worthy and almost effortless introduction to Korean home cooking. You never know, it might just become your new go-to comfort food, as it is mine already.

Sundubu jjigae, or spicy tofu and seafood stew

Prep 20 min
Cook 10 min
Serves 1

8-10 fresh clams
2 tbsp sesame oil, plus a little extra to garnish
1 tbsp vegetable oil

1 spring onion, trimmed and finely sliced, plus a little extra to garnish
30g finely sliced onion
2 tbsp
gochugaru (Korean chilli powder)
1 tbsp minced garlic
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp fish sauce
½ tbsp
granulated sugar
1-2 shell-on king prawns (or 60-120g defrosted frozen seafood mix)
300g block silken tofu

Fine salt and black pepper
, to taste
1 egg

Steamed rice, to serve

Soak the clams in salted water for at least 20 minutes. Meanwhile, put the sesame oil and vegetable oil in a medium, heavy-based saucepan (ideally a cast-iron one) on a low-medium heat. Add the spring onion and onion, and fry just until they start to sizzle. Add the gochugaru and minced garlic, and stir well for about a minute, taking care that they do not catch and burn.

Pour in 450ml water and turn up the heat to medium-high. When the soup starts to simmer, add the soy sauce, fish sauce, sugar, drained clams and king prawns. After a couple of minutes, when the clams start to open, gently lay the block of silken tofu in the broth and cook for another two to three minutes.

Take the pan off the heat, season the broth with fine salt, if need be, then turn off the heat. Season with fine salt, if need be. Carefully crack in the egg, then finish with a drizzle of sesame oil, some more sliced spring onion and black pepper to taste. Serve in the pot with a bowl of steamed rice on the side.

  • Seji Hong is the author of Korean Made Easy: Simple Recipes to Make from Morning to Midnight, published by Octopus at £22. To order a copy for £19.80, go to guardianbookshop.com

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