"You truly feel free on ice" — sub-zero sports help foreigners embrace Finnish winters

Learning to ski or skate as an adult comes with its fair share of stumbles, but many say winter sports have helped them unlock new experiences and enjoy Finland's long winters.

Skaters and walkers on the frozen Jyväsjärvi lake.
Many who have picked up outdoor sports say it helps them shake off the winter blues, and connect with nature. Image: Heli Kaski / Yle
  • Priya Ramachandran D'souza

A pair of skis or skates could be the key to turning Finland’s long, daunting winters from something to endure into something to enjoy. At least, that’s what many foreigners in Finland who have taken up winter sports as adults have come to discover.

These cold-weather converts say picking up outdoor sports has been a fun way to shake off the winter blues while finding joy and connection along Finland’s winding forest trails and frozen landscapes.

For Ekaterina Chernyaeva, heading out on long cross-country skiing trips feels like "stepping into Narnia".

"Skiing in Finland fills me with a sense of discovery, it's like going on an adventure. The forest trails are absolutely magical, especially for someone who grew up in a city environment. I've even encountered foxes and hares on my trails," she said.

Chernyaeva, who skis every day she can and takes all-day trips on weekends, said she fell in love with the sport as soon as she first tried it during the pandemic to keep herself active.

"Cross-country skiing is not a known sport in the southernmost region of Russia where I am from. When I wanted to try the sport for the first time, I bought my former colleague's old beginner skis. I wasn't ready to invest in something expensive in case I hated it. And from day one, it felt natural to me. I’m no expert and Í can’t ski as fast as the locals, but a few years into this sport and I am truly obsessed," she said.

Ekaterina Chernyaeva on a skiing trail.
Ekaterina Chernyaeva fell in love with cross country skiing during the pandemic.

Now the sport is a big part of Chernyaeva's winter experience in Finland.

"We try and ski every day we can. On weekends, my partner and I often ski the whole day — packing snacks, chocolate and hot tea. You enjoy fresh air, a vigorous workout and a sauna afterwards — you feel relaxed and tired in the best way possible. Apart from the obvious physical benefits, skiing helped me with my anxiety and has been great for my mood and mental health," she said.

Listen to Priya Ramachandran D'souza talk about winter sports in this edition of the All points North podcast. The episode is available via this embedded player, on Yle Areena, via Apple, Spotify or wherever you get your podcasts.

Are winter sports the secret hack to surviving Finnish winters?

Ski like no one's watching

For many aspiring winter sports enthusiasts who have never tried any of these sports in their childhood, the fear of falling and worrying about judgment are obstacles to overcome before they can feel fully confident.

Claudia Diaz Armas from Mexico had her first tryst with winter sports while au pairing for a Finnish family.

"I tried downhill skiing when we were on a trip to a ski resort. Needless to say, the three-year-old from the family learning alongside me was far more successful than I was!"

Armas started cross-country skiing in 2021 with her boyfriend’s help but admitted she often felt intimidated skiing during peak hours, worrying about falling in front of others or inconveniencing them.

"I’d head out during quieter times or at night when I knew fewer people would see me. Though I kept falling, I kept going and now I have made so much progress," she shared.

Armas noted that the fear of judgment is often misplaced, as fellow skiers are usually helpful and understanding. For beginners, she suggests starting out with a supportive friend.

"I am no professional, but I've taken a bunch of friends cross-country skiing and ice skating. It’s encouraging for them to see I’m not perfect. If a course feels too expensive, find someone willing to learn with you and just start from there," she suggested.

Claudia Díaz Armas poses on a cross country skiing trail.
Claudia Diaz Armas said she feared judgement when she started learning cross country skiing but learnt that fellow skiers can be very helpful.

Falling before flying

For some, the support of well-meaning friends isn't enough — professional guidance can be the key to staying on track and gaining momentum in mastering a winter sport.

Faizan Abid from Pakistan decided to take a crash course in downhill skiing with his wife to be better prepared for a scheduled skiing trip to Levi with his friends from Norway.

"It would have been nice to learn with friends, but from my research, I found that those who have been natural skiers since their childhood can't necessarily teach someone else effectively. Professional classes could be better to ensure you get the basics right," he said.

Abid and his wife took a few classes — including group sessions and private lessons — at a ski resort in Espoo before they felt confident enough to go down beginner slopes.

"When we finally made it to Levi, we were able to practice on the training slopes and take on some easier slopes. I fell a lot and it didn't go perfectly, but it was great fun! I hope to be able to hit the slopes this season too," Abid said.

Abid said the biggest challenge was letting go of the fear, but once you take the leap, you've conquered the hardest part.

"We saw fearless young kids on the slopes we were on. If they can’t balance, they just fall and get back up. For adults, there’s a point where you have to take the risk and go for it. If you’re not confident and waver, you’ll fall. You need to let your body go and move with the flow," he said.

Faizan Abid tries downhill skiing.
Faizan Abid who recently learnt downhill skiing said falling is part of the process and once you take the risk, you will start having fun.

Neo Karlsson, manager of Suomen Latu Paloheinä, which is part of the Finnish Outdoor Association, agreed that learning to ski as an adult presents unique challenges.

"Balance is one of the most common challenges, along with mastering the right rhythm and technique needed to grip and glide on skis effectively. Unlike children, who are often fearless and unbothered by falls, adults tend to approach skiing with more caution, frequently fearing both falling and being judged by others," he said.

The popular Paloheinä Cross-Country Skiing Centre in Helsinki welcomes many first-time skiers, which includes foreigners living in Finland and tourists visiting the city.

According to Karlsson, approximately 200-300 people enrol in the ski rental company's "First time on skis" group courses and private lessons.

"This includes people from all around the world, also from very different cultural backgrounds and climates without snow. We have seen many people starting with beginner courses, who went on to buy their skis and enjoy skiing as a hobby on the same ski trails," Karlsson said.

Learning from professionals

Apart from learning faster, turning to the experts for guidance also means you learn how to enjoy sports safely, according to Jalmari Kettula, ski school manager at Tampereen Slalomseura's Ski School. The school provides downhill skiing and snowboarding courses, as well as private lessons, for all skill levels at the Mustavuori ski resort in Tampere.

"During a ski lesson, you can learn in two hours what might take weeks or even months to figure out on your own. You risk teaching yourself the wrong techniques, which would then be hard to unlearn. With just a lesson or two, you can learn safe and efficient techniques, allowing you to practice on your own and enjoy winter sports with friends and family."

Kettula said that having the right equipment cannot be overstated, as common rookie mistakes include using boots that are too big or the wrong size skis.

"Boots should fit snugly, allowing some toe movement, but the heel should stay firmly in place. The foot shouldn't slide forward or backwards inside the boot. It needs to be tight enough to secure the foot without causing discomfort," he said.

Two people ski down a hill.
Tampereen Slalomseura's Ski School provides courses for all skill levels at the Mustavuori ski resort in Tampere. Image: Mauri Kivistö

A good starting point for beginners is to choose skis that come up to around the nose or chin when standing upright, according to Kettula. Shorter skis are easier to control, making them ideal for those just starting.

"My advice is to rent equipment a few times, and once you’ve fallen in love with the sport, it’s a good time to invest in your own gear," said Kettula. He also recommends purchasing a new helmet rather than a used one to ensure safety isn’t compromised.

Easy accessibility and affordability

While downhill skiing involves a greater investment of time and money to travel to ski centres, cross-country skiing is far more accessible, a quality skiing aficionado Ekaterina Chernyaeva particularly appreciates.

"You don’t need to travel far, head to Lapland, or book a flight to enjoy skiing. I live in Vantaa, and there’s a ski track just 100 metres from my building. If there’s enough snow and I have the energy, I could ski to Espoo or Helsinki’s Central Park. The capital area offers so many options, and there are websites to check track conditions, making skiing both accessible and organised. It’s not an elitist sport."

Keeping an eye on municipal websites for special free winter sports events could also be a good idea. The City of Tampere, for instance, offers a few free skating lessons each winter.

"We organise a couple of skating events every winter, where we offer free lessons and loan skates. The next one is on February 14th at the Pyynikki skating rink. These events are usually very popular," said Satu Jarva from the City of Tampere's communication unit.

Breaking the ice

Most foreigners in Finland agree that the biggest draw of learning winter sports is that it unlocks a whole new set of experiences in Finland.

When Mariana Perez moved to Finland from Mexico in 2016, she realised that a big part of experiencing Finland is through nature, as most hobbies here are centred around outdoor activities.

"My Finnish partner introduced me to Nordic skating (retkiluistelu in Finnish) — long-distance skating on natural water a few years ago. My partner learned to skate as a kid, and it feels like everyone here has been skating their whole lives — it’s so integrated into the culture. There was a big threshold I had to overcome, coming from a tropical place like Cancun, Mexico," Perez said.

 Mariana Perez.
Mariana Perez says Nordic skating has changed her attitude towards winters in Finland.

Now, Perez goes on long skating trips, exploring places with a new set of friends she's made on ice. She started by joining the Suomen Retkiluistelijat group, which arranges trips, offers information on skating safely on the ice, and organises practice meetups for skating technique.

"They organise trips based on skill levels with guides who monitor the ice and find safe paths. Sometimes when the conditions are just perfect and the ice is like terasjää (steel ice) — smooth and bump-free — it feels like you are flying. There’s a deep connection with nature and the people around you. When you immerse yourself in the experience, where you truly feel free on the ice."

The sport has permanently changed Perez's attitude toward winters in Finland, and now she looks forward to the coldest days, as they mean she can skate on the frozen lakes.

"My advice to anyone hesitating to try a winter sport is not to take it too seriously — just have fun with it. Find a friend who’s willing to join you, rent some equipment, bring warm coffee and snacks, and make a day of it," Perez said.

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