Usb Powered Colloidal Silver Generator

LM317 VOLTAGE REGULATOR AS A CONSTANT CURRENT REGULATOR
[Original Post: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR]
https://www.cgcsforum.org/index.php?topic=4359.0
USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR
« on: December 10, 2018, 12:46:29 PM »
I found that USB, which can deliver 5V and up to 2A, is sufficient for the needs of colloidal silver
production, besides being the most easily available supply of DC power.
So, I built my colloidal silver generator based on USB power supply, using easily available commercial
modules.
SOME INFORMATION ON MY EQUIPMENT

1. USB POWER SUPPLY I used a step-up DC-DC converter, with micro USB input and up to 28V
output (0.5$ on Aliexpress, delivery to Italy included). I set the output voltage to 28V and connected its
output to the input of a step down CC/CV converter (Constant Current/ Constant Voltage) provided with
voltage and current displays (4$ on Aliexpress, delivery included). I set the output voltage to 24V and
the current limit to 10 mA (I used a multimeter to read the current, since the resolution of the current
display is 10 mA). With these settings, my first 350 mL batch was ready in 1 hour (10 mAh = 10 mA * 1
hour).
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=micro+usb+step-up
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=Adjustable+Power+CC%2FCV+Step-down
2. GEARMOTOR STIRRER. I fastened a miniature 6V planetary gearmotor on the cap of the jar (2$ on
Aliexpress, including delivery), and connected to its shaft a small plastic paddle underneath. It is
connected directly to the 5V input of the previously mentioned step-up power supply and delivers about
100 RPM).
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=6v+micro+planetary+gearmotor
SOME INFORMATION ON MY PROCESS

1. HONEY REDUCER. I preferred honey, since it has a more consistent composition directly mastered
by bees, instead of commercial syrups, whose composition is not declared: 14 drops of solution (1g
honey + 18 mL distilled water).
2. ELECTRODES. Anode: 999 silver bulllion. Cathode: 999 titanium sheet (To be overly prudent,
titanium is the most biocompatible metal, but any other metal, like copper or stainless steel, would be
OK).
« Last Edit: December 10, 2018, 06:11:44 PM by VS »
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alex79
Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2018, 06:14:27 PM »
Page 1 of 14
if i calculate your ppm solution,it must be something around 120ppm.350ml \10mA\60min.it looks like
40 ppm or maybe 20ppm if the particles are big.did you use heating or gelatine?
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“The more I learn, the more I realize how much I don't know.”
VS

Ooops! Many thanks, Alex79 for your suggestion.
I updated my spreadsheet, which helps me to follow in real time the concentration, but I failed to include
the volume of the batch in the formulas!
I was even deceived by the fact that there was not so much silver oxide on the cathode, and none at all
on the bottom of the jar, and the final color is what would be expected for a 20 PPM colloidal silver.
Now I am wondering where the remaining 40 ppm has gone.
The electrolyte and the reducing agent were abundant (5.4 and 6.6 times the moles of silver), but I think
to understand that this does not increase the solubility of silver (oxide) in the water, and that the excess
should have been collected on the cathode or precipitated.
May be I need to make some more batches in order to "calibrate" my eyes to better estimate how much
silver oxide is collected on the cathode.
I heated the batch at 80 °C after I added the reducing solution.
Regarding the picture, I should better have used a white background, since the color of the table makes
the colloidal silver appear darker than it is. Its true color really matches that of a 20 ppm colloidal silver,
as seen in many pictures.
« Last Edit: December 10, 2018, 10:15:54 PM by VS »

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Neofizz

« Reply #3 on: December 11, 2018, 11:50:41 AM »
Quote from: VS on December 10, 2018, 09:46:00 PM
Now I am wondering where the remaining 40 ppm has gone.
The electrolyte and the reducing agent were abundant (5.4 and 6.6 times the moles of silver), but I think
to understand that this does not increase the solubility of silver (oxide) in the water, and that the excess
should have been collected on the cathode or precipitated.
May be I need to make some more batches in order to "calibrate" my eyes to better estimate how much
silver oxide is collected on the cathode.
You shouldn't get more than a whisper of silver on the cathode. This is part of the job of the sodium
carbonate electrolyte. Try weighting it before and after the run to check. You can also try weighting the
anode before and after to see how much silver left it.
That sure be one massive size cathode as well. You really only need something one tenth the width of
that.
I can't confirm whether or not your electronics set up is delivering the correct current. It seems like you
are getting half or less. Or, you would know what the current is you are getting by using an amp meter
in line.
Page 2 of 14
One last thing, the spacing between the electrodes makes a difference. An inch and a half is what we
are using.
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"Be kinder than necessary, for everyone you meet is fighting some kind of battle."
VS

Thank you for your suggestions, Neofizz.
Since I monitor the current with a multimeter, I will rely on this for the moment, after having corrected
my formulas.
But I will buy a milligram scale, which will better allow me to monitor the process.
I will also try a smaller cathode, because this makes a 550 Ohm solution, which doesnt allow to set a
voltage higher than 5.5V at 10 mA.
The electrodes are spaced 40 mm, so this should be OK.
This evening I will make the next batch!

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Gene

Your cathode needs to be significantly smaller. I run 10ma and found I needed to go to a 24 gauge
copper wire to give me a little more ease in adjusting cell voltage (about 1" submerged) otherwise its a
bit too touchy. Usually I have about 0.5" to 0.75" submerged. At 1" submerged, that comes to about
0.065 square inches of wire surface exposed to the cell (about 1.6 square millimeter and yeah I said
millimeters). Yeah. tiny. That "flag" cathode you have is HUGE. Its no wonder you have issues getting
the cell voltage up over 10V.
With that converter, at 10ma, 28 V out, 5VIn you should only be using about 60ma assuming 90%
converter efficiency. 2amps at 5V is HUGE but then, these phone chargers are tiny.
That constant current/constant voltage unit has been discussed before and it’s not nearly accurate
enough to make good quality colloidal silver (what I recall from the outcome of the discussion). You
really need a home-built current limiter. This could be as simple as an LM317 voltage regulator with
a resistor (or potentiometer) following it and its very stable though it requires 3V minimum above your
cell voltage (just saying) as operating headroom.
I'm about to do the same thing with that exact same boost converter module (been thinking about it for
a while but haven't gotten around to doing it yet). I'm going to power it from one of those little Apple
IPhone chargers (the ones that look like maybe a 2cm cube). Those are 1 amp and that’s way overkill
but TINY [If for this power source the current requirement is only in the range of mA, then my
transformer would be rather small]
Page 3 of 14
You can add the reducing agent at the beginning of the run so long as you keep the cell temperature up
over maybe 120F so the reducing agent reduces somewhat quickly, not hours like it does closer to
room temp. Then, you can just continuously produce and raise the PPM to whatever you want because
you never have a situation where you're over the solubility limit for silver oxide dissolved in water during
the run (what I do) as long as you add enough reducing agent to reduce whatever total PPM your target
is (plus a little extra for "insurance"). The added benefit is that when the run is done, you're fully
reduced (I let the solution sit maybe 30 minutes to make sure every last bit of IS has been reduced
before I gel cap - it does take a little time for the reducing agent to do its thing).
Honey is NOT a good reducing agent. First off, its NOT consistent regardless what you think and
secondly, its dirty. There's even a bit of peroxide in it which I'm not so sure is a good idea as an
ingredient in a reducing agent. Light clear corn syrup is very clean/consistent. Maltodextrin (as long as
you buy it from a reputable source and if you do, try to get one specific DE number so you can compute
how much you really need to use), even glucose are clean and consistent.
Maltodextrin is long chains of glucose molecules each hanging on the tail of the next to put it simply.
Only the "head" at the very end of the chain can reduce. The DE number (if you can get single DE
maltodextrin which at least in the US at the consumer level is quite difficult - its all mixed bag) refers to
its dextrose equivalency. DE is usually a number ranging from 2 or 3 up to 20 or even a little higher
though usually above 20 its referred to as glucose syrup and yeah, its a liquid over 20 usually. If you
can find it you want a single DE maltodextrin because then you can compute exactly how much you
need for reduction. The number is a percentage you divide the weight in glucose you need to
completely reduce your IS to colloidal silver by as a fraction which tells you how much maltodextrin you
need. For instance, if you need 0.1g of glucose (dextrose - same sugar, 2 different names) and you
have maltodextrin with a DE of lets say 5 (a.k.a 5% of the reducing power of glucose) you'd compute
(0.1g/0.05) = 2grams of maltodextrin. As you can see, its advantageous to go to a higher DE number
but the lower the number, the better a stabilizer the maltodextrin is. As I said though, in the US at the
consumer level we don't have a choice as its "mixed" bag so all we can do is assume a DE number of
maybe 3 as a worst case meaning, again for that 0.1g of glucose example, we'd need to use 3.34g of
our unknown maltodextrin.
Just so its said, the solubility of silver oxide in water at room temp (thats 75F, not lower) is a hair over
20PPM. At 150F its about double so about 40PPM.
I do my runs at 150F so the reducer I add at the beginning reduces quickly (maybe 5-10 minutes) so I
never have a situation where I'm exceeding the solubility limit for what hasn't been reduced yet.
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VS

Thank-you, Gene, for your suggestions.
I had already appreciated some of your posts elsewere.
Unfortunately, my generator was born before I met CSGSforum.
Page 4 of 14
Now, having started to learn from the experiences posted here, I realize that it has been only an
intermediate step.
May be I can produce 20 PPM colloidal silver with it, but to get farther, more will be needed: heating the
jar, stirring more vigorously, regulating the depth of the cathode, and so on.
I will design my next generator after I will have read the posts in CSGSforum, and there are a lot!
As for the cathode, fortunately it is easy to adapt. I will use a titanium strip instead of the plate, and I will
use a through plug to adjust its height and get an higher voltage.
As for the constant current/ constant voltage unit, it was really difficult to adjust the current in the
milliamp zone, having it a full scale of 5 A. But I added a 1 kOhm trimmer in parallel to two pins of
the 10 kOhm trimmer that regulates the current limit (you can see it in the last picture on the top of
the module), and now it is pretty easier to adjust. The current was not very stable, but I attributed it
to the variable level of the water, caused by the stirring. However it was stable when using a resistor as
a load, but I did not verify its stability with still water.
Since in Italy corn syrup in not readily avalable, I used honey, which was one of the possible reducing
agents suggested perhaps by Kephra. I think that maltodextrin or glucose are easier to find. The
problem will be to know the DE number of maltodextrine or the real concentration of glucose, since
glucose products are widely used in confectionery and sold at varied and questionable declared
concentrations.
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Gene

Regarding maltodextrin and glucose (dextrose), if you buy powder its probably 100%. If the
maltodextrin doesn't have an associated DE number, its mixed bag and then you have to assume the
DE # is 2, maybe 3.
I bought a pound of each from a homebrew supply shop. They even had a 55 gal drum (white HDPE
plastic) of glucose syrup though there was no state DE on it nor how much water was used to make it a
syrup. They use maltodextrin in beer making because it imparts a kind of "creamy" characteristic to the
beer which I thought was kind of interesting.
I have a friend in Austria who I taught to make colloidal silver and he too has issues with getting light
corn syrup. He bought a small jar of glucose from a pharmacy. It may have cost a bit but you don't
need much though you do need a good electronic balance to weigh-out the powder correctly, especially
with glucose because of how little you actually use.
You probably have issues finding clear gelatine I bet for when you want to gel-cap your result. If so,
perhaps you can buy it from an amazon.com vendor who would ship into Italy - knox clear gelatine in
powder form. Vegetable gelatine will NOT work. You need "animal" gelatine because this is a protein
and thats the trick. If you coat the silver particles with a protein, given proteins aren't digested in the
stomach, all the silver makes it to the upper part of your small intestine where the gelatin is digested,
Page 5 of 14
freeing the silver particles where you get damn near 100% absorption. Gelatine is also a great
stabilizer for higher PPM colloidal silver.
And yes, as I recall, the issue with the current limiter was for one, setting it to maybe single digit
milliamps because for sure, this was NOT the usage model they covered in the design. As I recall, the
other issue was that the display for current didn't have enough decimal places. You really want to
display to 1/100th of a milliamp. You have a multimeter though and these things are highly accurate.
Even crappy ones provide at least 2 decimal places, some 3 or even 4 on low range scales.
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Gene

Regarding a simple current limiter,
https://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/LM317-D.PDF
Figure 26. Use a 10 turn potentiometer and it'll be rock solid stable once you set it. The only
caveat is that the LM317 as I recall, needs 3V minimum of headroom (Vin must be a minimum of 3V
higher than VOut).
VRef is nominally 1.25V for the LM317 so use that in the equation to calculate the resistance you need
for the current you're choosing to use.
Headroom shouldn't be an issue for you. Just set your boost converter to 28V like you're doing and
with the cell set to 10-12V that gives you about 12V of headroom.
This is probably the simplest current limiter you can build - 2 parts.
At least from Aliexpress and off eBay, LM317's in TO-220 (leaded) packages are dirt cheap! You'll
spend dollars buying a good quality panel mount 10 turn potentiometer though but now you'll have a
current limiter that can range from nearly 0ma up to perhaps 25ma+, probably much higher than this.
FWIW...
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drewcifer

I'm not an electronics expert, but I was able to follow the schematic laid out some time ago in this
forum, It used the LM7805 voltage regulator paired with the proper resistor and it seems to work great
for me ... Lately, I hear no mention of the LM7805 and all I read are references to the LM317. Should I
be using the LM317 instead of the LM7805? Can you help me understand the difference in layman's
terms? Even though I was able to build out the LM7805 to my satisfaction, I have to confess, I don't
really understand the underlying electrical engineering involved. What's better for colloidal silver
production the LM7805 or the LM317?
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'Bohr was inconsistent, unclear, willfully obscure and right'
'Einstein was consistent, clear, down to earth and wrong'
—John Bell
Page 6 of 14
(1928-1990)
wgpeters
 Kephra's other account
Either one will produce the same quality colloidal silver.
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wgpeters aka Kephra
VS

Thanks, Gene and drewcifer for your advices on constant current generators.
In this post, I wish to make some more thought about the constant current regulation.
While the water is stirred, the waves in the jar cause some variation in the level of the wet surface of
the electrodes and consequently in the resulting resistance of the solution.
A linear constant current regulator, like LM317 or LM7805, can readily react and vary the output
voltage, in order keep the current constant.
However, my module uses a switching regulator chip, which requires a capacitor in parallel to the
output, in order to filter the PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) and level the output voltage.
This capacitor slows the response time in the constant current mode, so that the output current actually
varies somewhat, as the solution resistance varies.
This is not a significant problem in my set-up, since the stirring is moderate, although the measure on
the multimeter is a little bit unstable.
But when a strong stirring were needed, the variation of the resistance would be substantial, and a
linear regulator would be mandatory.
So I will consider your suggestions in my next set-ups but, before that, I need to read more posts, in
order that the new design will be based on the multiple requirements for the various situations in which
it will be used.
nix2p

I'm not an electronics expert, and the "room" has more than one corner; quoting: "LM7805 or the
LM317", supposed to increase voltage/amperage supplied to it, by increasing output? Or, it has another
purpose.
Nix
« Last Edit: December 13, 2018, 02:33:30 AM by nix2p »
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"I am too old to die young, and too young to grow up"!
Page 7 of 14
Marty Feldman
Gene

An LM317 or an LM7805 are just linear voltage regulators. You get lower voltage out than you put in.
The LM7805 is a fixed 5V linear regulator which needs 2-3V of headroom above the output voltage to
stay in regulation (meaning about 8V).
The higher the headroom requirement, the less voltage thats available to maintain the correct current
flow in the cell. In other words, if you have 20V and need 8V headroom, all you have left to put across
the cell in a worst case is 20-8 or 12V. Not much room.
The LM317 is a variable regulator that can be set with a resistor or two, to any voltage you want above
its headroom requirement which is about 3V. 20-3 is 17v - much better.
Of all the current limiters, the 2 transistor one has the lowest headroom requirement (maybe not even
1V). I built one of these because I had the transistors where I didn't have an LM317 where it didn't
make any sense to buy one.
Heat is definitely something you need to deal with if you're going to be running higher currents.
Lets say you're using that boost regulator and are setting it to 28V. You set your cell voltage to 10V.
That means you have 18V across the current limiter. Lets say you're running 20ma (people do with
bullion bar anodes). How much power is that which is dissipated in the LM317? Well power is voltage
times current so that'd be 18V * 0.020 = 0.36 watts. Thats getting up there and for sure beyond the
capability of a tiny TO92 pass transistor. If you want to run 25ma, thats 0.45watts.
The LM317 (or the LM7805) can survive this in a TO220 leaded package and may only ever get
"warm".
IMHO, the LM317 is a better solution and the whole circuit is just 2 parts - the LM317 and a current
sense resistor (or potentiometer to make it adjustable).
LM317 from china (aliexpress) I've seen as low as 7.8 cents each in the TO220 package (shippping is
free) in 10 quantities so all of 78 cents for 10. Yeah, HOW?
If you're going to make a current variable one, go for a 10 turn potentiometer so you can set
the current accurately with ease. Panel mount ones (though NOT cheap) usually can handle
watts. Somehow (I haven't figured out how yet) those tiny little blue square ones that are only about
3/8" square by about 1/4" thick can handle a lot of power too (easily 0.5 watts). You won't need to be
close to that but those tiny things are a pain to adjust because you need a tiny eyeglass screwdriver to
fit into the tiny slot in the adjustment screw. With a panel mount, you just put a big-old knob on it
and you're good.
Page 8 of 14
You're only ever going to have to build one so even if it costs you $5 to build one, who cares, right?
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Bobby
 "I walk slowly, but I never walk backward" Lincoln

RIGHT!!!
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"Nearly all men can stand adversity, but if you want to test a man's character, give him power"
Abraham Lincoln

@Gene: With a SilverTron Elite in hand, I will probably never need to build a colloidal silver generator,
but just for reference, would you draw out the circuit diagram for a LM317 unit? What would it take to
boost the voltage from USB or a lower voltage wall wart? I thought I had diagrams from earlier posts,
but I lost them.
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chrisflhtc

You could put a few of these https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Semitec/E-501?
qs=wgO0AD0o1vv28tZEOZYnWg%3d%3d in series with your power supply for constant current in
multiples of .5ma I use 3 and with a 24 v .750ma power supply I measure 15.6ma it drifts with temp so I
have them clamped to a small sink. you can have .5 ma with one piece.
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VS

TheDen, in order to boost the voltage from a standard micro USB cable, you can use this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=micro+usb+step-up
Regarding the current regulator, I did not know this device proposed by chrisflhtc.
Since each one works up to 10 V, three in series are needed for <30V power supply.
Smart device, but not flexible like LM317 with a potentiometer.
With these diodes, if you need to change the current, you need a set of diodes for each current you
need.
Page 9 of 14
« Last Edit: December 15, 2018, 08:27:19 AM by VS »
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chrisflhtc

100 volts! I use three in parallel to get 15ma. I do .5L at a time at 15ma 3 hours for 320ppm. No need
for me to be flexible with this I have other devices to vary the current. I like simple it works.
C
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drewcifer

@chrisflhtc
If each diode is .5mA's, wouldn't 3 in parallel only equal 1.5mA's? I purchased (10) 5mA diode's from
Mouser a few years ago and when I started adding more than one in parallel it increased the current by
5, i.e., (1) gave me 5mA, (2) gave me 10mA's, (3) gave me 15mA's. How did you get 15 mA's from 3
diode's in parallel if each one is only .5mA?
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'Bohr was inconsistent, unclear, willfully obscure and right'
'Einstein was consistent, clear, down to earth and wrong'
—John Bell
(1928-1990)
Gene

Those current regulator diodes were discussed here years ago. They have a serious issue. By virtue of
current flowing through them, they heat up which moves the current set-point. As such, they're not
overly stable. If the set current drifts during a run you're not going to have any clue exactly what PPM
you made.
FromTheDen, look back to my post (#8) in this thread. I explained it there (LM317) and pointed to a
link to a datasheet where there's a schematic for it (its only 2 parts - LM317 and current setting
resistor). As I said though, the better solution would be to use a potentiometer connected as a variable
resistance in place of the fixed resistor so you can adjust it to get whatever current you want. The
equation will help you determine how large your potentiometer must be in resistance to give you the
range you're looking for. This is about the simplest current limiter you can build that is stable and can
handle fairly large currents (depending on the power rating of the resistor or potentiometer you choose
to use). Surely up to 30ma isn't an issue, perhaps much higher.
As far as a boost regulator, there's a little module about the size of your first digit of your thumb that can
boost any input voltage from maybe 2V up to as high as 28V. 5V is perfect.
Page 10 of 14
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-Smart-Electronics-DC-DC-SX1308-Step-UP-Adjustable-Power-
Module-Step-Up-Boost-Converter-2/32789443916.html?
spm=2114.search0104.3.120.1d361a25ckj2g5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_1006
5_10068_10130_10890_5730315_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_453_10084_454_10
083_10618_5729215_10307_538_537_536_10059_10884_10887_100031_321_322_10103-
5729215,searchweb201603_51,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=eea97d72-3093-488b-8033-017aed59b9a7-
17&algo_pvid=eea97d72-3093-488b-8033-017aed59b9a7
Thats a link to one of many vendors on aliexpress who is selling those things. Nope, not much to it at
all. The only caveat is that its a BOOST converter meaning that you can't set it for an output voltage
lower than what your input supply voltage is (not that you would in this usage). Thats probably obvious
to most people but just so its said...
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FromTheDen

Thank you all
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VS

Quote from: FromTheDen on December 14, 2018, 01:31:38 PM
@Gene: With a SilverTron Elite in hand, I will probably never need to build a colloidal silver generator,
but just for reference, would you draw out the circuit diagram for a LM317 unit? What would it take to
boost the voltage from USB or a lower voltage wall wart? I thought I had diagrams from earlier posts,
but I lost them.
FromTheDen, I opened a new thread about LM317 Constant Current power supply, where I
posted the circuit and parameters:
https://www.cgcsforum.org/index.php?topic=4380.0
I also added a link to download a spreadsheet, which allows to adapt the circuit to particular set-ups.
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FromTheDen

Sweet!
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Dashx
Page 11 of 14
« Reply #24 on: March 20, 2019, 01:50:33 AM »
Hi all, I'm new to CSCGforum and very humbled by the experience you guys have..
I make 40 litre batches of silver (and gold) in a 50 litre fish tank. Each Litre @ 200ppm uses approx
200mg silver, 3g maltodextrin, 3g gelatin.
I use silver bullion coins 99.999%

49 volts @ 6 amps.
A small fish pump passes water rapidly past the coins in the tank.
I have the tank sitting on an induction cooker and have a pot inside the tank to heat it to 60-80 deg.
This usually takes nearly two days/batch.
Please critique...
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kephra
 The older I get, the better I was

« Reply #25 on: March 20, 2019, 02:14:56 AM »
How do you know its 200ppm?
At 6 amps, you should liberate 400mg of silver per minute, so 1/2 minute per liter and 20 minutes for a
batch.
No, I don't think so. That doesn't work out.
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Colloidal Silver is only a bargain if you make it yourself.
Dashx

« Reply #26 on: March 21, 2019, 06:40:57 AM »
Hi Kephra, much respect to you, your knowledge is impressive and well renowned.
I however follow rudimentary chemistry, use recipes, and didn't consider the reaction continuing beyond
the reducing agent.
Without measuring the weights of the coins before and after each batch, the 200ppm+ I'm chasing is
amber in colour and I've yet to have a batch take 20 minutes, or even 20 hours.
Any advice would be most appreciated.

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kephra
 The older I get, the better I was
Page 12 of 14
« Reply #27 on: March 21, 2019, 10:56:05 AM »
Quote
I however follow rudimentary chemistry, use recipes, and didn't consider the reaction continuing beyond
the reducing agent.
So are you saying that the rules of physics and chemistry do not apply to you?
I suggest that you actually measure your current. I bet it is not 6 amps.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2019, 12:02:53 PM by kephra »
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Colloidal Silver is only a bargain if you make it yourself.
Mer2112

« Reply #28 on: May 30, 2019, 12:03:43 PM »
This could be an interesting add on. http://www.icstation.com/um24-color-display-tester-voltmeter-
ammeter-battery-capacity-tester-voltage-current-meter-cable-resistance-tester-p-13213.html
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Gene

« Reply #29 on: May 30, 2019, 09:43:08 PM »
Not for current because the resolution is 1ma. Thats not nearly good enough. 0.01ma is and
thats 2 orders of magnitude better than what that thing can do.
None of this stuff is designed for the purposes we need. Our needs are a bit unique.
Current limiters on power supplies, if you're lucky, can resolve to 1ma but then this makes
sense - its over-current, not maintaining a set current to high accuracy.
People have looked at many commercial products and I can't recall anyone finding anything that
regulates current to a high enough accuracy to be useful to us. That doesn't mean something
doesn't exist - just that no one has found anything yet.

« Reply #30 on: May 30, 2019, 11:26:53 PM »
This one has 4 digit resolution, but the accuracy is 1/1000. Voltage 4-24V:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-UM25-UM25C-for-APP-USB-2-0-Type-C-LCD-
Voltmeter-ammeter-voltage-current-meter/923042_32855845265.html
This other one claims 5 digit resolution (!), but the same 1/1000 accuracy. Voltage 3.5-24V:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-TC66-TC66C-Type-C-PD-trigger-USB-C-Voltmeter-
ammeter-voltage-2-way-current-meter/923042_32968303350.html
Page 13 of 14
Should your current regulator be not very precise, these devices measure with good precision
the total mAh.
What you dont have is the automatic shut-off at the desired mAh, but you can use an alarm
clock to alert you a few minutes before the required time, in order to manually switch off the
power supply when you reach the target mAh.
« Last Edit: May 30, 2019, 11:48:35 PM by VS »
Page 14 of 14

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LM317 VOLTAGE REGULATOR AS A CONSTANT CURRENT REGULATOR

[Original Post: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR]

USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

« on: December 10, 2018, 12:46:29 PM »

SOME INFORMATION ON MY EQUIPMENT

SOME INFORMATION ON MY PROCESS

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Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

Re: USB POWERED COLLOIDAL SILVER GENERATOR

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