This is my complete full guide to counterfeit USA $20 bill.

This is my personal
Photoshop template and supplies (links below) I have used over the last couple of
years. This is just a single bill PSD as you will have to do some editing to get
your colors right with your printers. Once that is done, you can make a master PSD
that prints 4 bills per page. This should be very easy to do as I have the PSDs
pretty well organized.

Now the bills are printed in multiple printing passes with several printers to give
maximum resolution and quality. Bills are printed from lowest layer up. I've also
included what I have tried and tested and other things that I just can't seem to
get to work.

What is and isn't included on the bills:

right paper = yes

TOOLS:

Inkjet Printer:

First you will need a high quality photo inkjet printer. I would get an inkjet that
has a multipurpose feeder much like laser printers have as this will help with
center printing alignment. I highly recommend Epson or Cannon printers. If you have
another brand, you can test it out. Also, no need to worry about "Rules of Use" on
any printer as my PSD template will totally bypass it. The inkjet printer will be
used on most of all the printing except the black portion of the front of the bill.
Please be advised that my PSD colors are setup to my printers. You will have to
adjust your brightness/contrast/color/etc..settings to get the colors close to a
real bill. So I highly recommend getting a brand new uncirculated $20 bill to
compare with as used ones are usually darker.

I have multiple layers that are categorized into "SETS" on the PSDs. Each SET is to
be printed separately.

Open up 20front.psd file:

1.) Print SET 1

2.) Allow ink to dry

(warning here: different printer inks take different amounts of time to dry
thoroughly. You want to make sure the ink is completely dry before printing over it
again otherwise the quality will come out like crap. You can use a heat gun to
speed up the process. There should be a minimum of 1 minute wait time between
prints)
3.) Print SET 2

4.) Allow ink to dry

5.) Flip page over and open up 20Back.psd

6.) Print SET 1

7.) Allow ink to dry

8.) Print SET 2

(SET 3 is not printed; I've just included its layers for template reasons in case
there is a good way to print them in the future.)

9.) Open Black20Front.psd and print using B/W laser printer that is listed below.

OPTIONAL: If you do not use the paper I recommend further below, then I highly
recommended reading the below color laser part for printing on all SET 2's.
Color laser printer: OKIdata C331dn
This is the printer I used to use to print SET 2s on the front and back after I
printed all the SET 1's in inkjet. Furthermore, it will not print the yellow
tracking dots that are common on many types of laser printers .

1.) Print SET 1 from 20front.psd with inkjet

2.) Allow ink to dry

3.) Flip page over and Print SET 1 from 20Back.psd with inkjet

4.) Allow ink to dry

5.) Open up 20front.psd

6.) Print SET 2 with color laser

7.) Flip page over and open 20back.psd

8.) Print SET 2 with color laser

9.) Open Black20Front.psd and print using B/W laser printer that is listed below.
Again, the color laser parts (1 through 8) above is only needed if your not using
the paper I recommend below as most papers will produce crap image quality with
inkjet on SET 2 if regular paper is used.

Black and white laser printer: OKI-data B430dn (must have!)

This is the printer I know will work beautifully for the Black20Front.psd. This
printer will print such fine detail that inkjet just can't do. The micro printing
will come out perfect with this printer. As an added bonus, MIRC toner is available
for this printer so that you can print the main image in magnetic ink should you
feel the need to. Please be aware that while this is magnetic ink, real US currency
has a specific magnetic signal pattern in the ink itself, so this ink will only
fool detectors that just check that a magnetic ink is present. I'm not 100% sure
but I would assume advanced counters at banks and other type of machines will
detect it as counterfeit as the ink won't give off the right magnetic strength
signal.

A quick note on B/W laser printers. They are not all created equal. It's like going
to the store to buy a flat screen TV and they are all there displaying the same
show but they all look a little different. The printer I listed above prints out an
image that is just right; not to black and nice thin lines. I have tried several of
my color laser printers and have done grayscale prints but they always come out to
dark or little to thick of lines. Again, the printer I listed above is more than
worth its small price tag; works amazing.

When printing with any laser printer, use the multipurpose tray and set paper size
to medium or whatever is around 83gsm or 20lb-24lb so that you get perfect center
alignment. (make sure to use "center image" in Photoshop print preview to get
alignments rights)

Green UV strip:

If you wish to put invisible green UV on the bill, simply search for UV ink
cartridges for your inkjet printer or buy an invisible green UV ink marker and use
a straight edge. They are all over the web. Print or mark the strip on the front
prior to any printing should you wish to have this on your bills. This can come in
handy in case your bill is put under one of those detector machines that they keep
near registers with a UV light on it. You will be screwed however if held up to the
light as there is no strip but you never know. I personally don't do this anymore
as the stores I hit up don't use UV detection (only pen every great now and then),
so it's not worth my time really.

Color shifting ink:

I have searched all over and have found things that almost work but application to
the bills just isn't there. I have tried screen print and stamps. Both just don't
give good quality or it is very difficult/inconsistent to apply as the detail they
need to replicate is just to fine. The best method I believe would be to use an
offset press with the right ink. I haven't tested this as I don't have an offset
press/plate maker yet. The closest and most efficient way I have to getting the
sparkly eagle and a sparkly copper "20" is I use my Xerox colorqube printer. This
is a solid ink printer that prints like an offset press but uses a wax layer that
goes on top of the paper instead. So what I do is print the eagle/20 then I stick
the bill sheet under my screen print dyer (IR heat dryer that semi re-melts the
wax) and I dust them with a little fine gold embossing powder. I may soon just toss
the gold powder into the printer's wax containers themselves but I fear this may
clog the print heads. I don't know but I will update this if I ever try. Honestly
though, after literally hundreds of these bills passed, I just print these layers
like normal on the regular inkjet printer. I have come to find out it's just not
worth the extra time as this security feature is just ignored completely. And if it
is checked, it isn't going to be checked before the watermark/strip. Also, for
those wondering about this printer, it's not good to do the whole bill in it. The
wax printing makes the feel way off and you can tell it's fake from the moment you
touch it.

Aging/antiquing the bills after all printing is completed:

This is important as it really helps to the feel of the bills. First you need to
hit each page with a little Krylon Matte Spray; can be found at Wal-Mart. This will
seal the toner on the bills surface so that it doesn't possibly come off during
this phase. Now just a quick light coat should be good enough but you may want to
experiment with how much to use. Allow to dry and then cut out all your bills. For
this next part you will need some type of rotary drum type mixer. A dyer can work
if you have nothing else. I personally use a small electric concrete mixer as it
doesn't have the heat element. Next you will need some General's Powdered Charcoal
and a bunch of poker chips. I just put these items together in a big bag and mix
the powder on the chips. Once that is done, I toss all my bills and charcoal
powdered chips into the mixer for up to 15 minutes. If you use your dryer, put the
bills and poker chips in a big heavy duty black trash bag and make sure to turn off
the heating element before starting. After mixing I sometimes just hit them with a
little more matte spray (not much).
Now I do several batches and sometimes mix only for 5 minutes and other times for
15 minutes and I also sometimes throw in more or less charcoal powder. This gives
me a bunch of aged/antiqued bills but don't all look/feel the same. If you don't
want to do any of this, feel free to just roll & wear each bill individually.

Recommended Paper:

For the longest time I was using the 100% cotton 24lb resume paper from office
store and would hit it with a bunch of Krylon Matte Spray to give it a good feel
but this didn't quite pass the pen test without TONS of spraying; even then it
wasn't perfect and would make the bills really stiff. Given such, I am always
searching and within the last year I found some references to this artist on the
bitcointalk.org service forums that makes the paper I use. (clearnet warning!):

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=215187

They claim to "hand chemically size the paper to give it better drawing, printing,
archival, and moisture resistant properties". After trying to replicate what they
do with no success, I ended up just spending a good deal amount of money with them
to tell me the detailed specifics on how they do it and where to get the supplies
so I could just do my own. This vendor is actually treating 100% cotton 20lb resume
paper that you buy from the manufacture with the same sizing the Bureau of Printing
and Engraving uses on its paper before they print on it. Needless to say, it is
makes the bills feel 100% genuine and even more so after I artificially age them.
It pretty much makes the paper pass the pen test but instead of black, it becomes a
semi dark yellow. However, after you hit the bill with just a little Krylon Matte
Spray that's needed to seal the bill, the paper passes with a perfect yellow. The
sizing not only helps with that but it makes the inkjet print quality better too.
The best way I can describe the quality is in-between that of regular 100% cotton
resume paper and that of glossy photo paper (which obviously can't be used for
counterfeiting). It has no effect on the laser toner quality. This paper does have
a single watermark on it (it's on a random spot up the middle of the page) but I
don't care as we are only concerned about the feel, color, print quality and pen
test.

The only downside is the paper is kind of expensive at $7 a sheet; I thought I was
saving money making my own but it's very time consuming as everything is done by
hand and a single sheet is a 2-3 day process due to multiple drying times and such.
However, I don't know how long this vendor will be around, so knowing how to make
it was worth it for me to buy that information from them. I now actually pay
someone locally to make mine as I don't have time for it, so I don't mind giving up
my original source. Anyway, you're basically paying $1.75 a bill since you can
print off four bills per page ($7 to print off $80 in twenties). So I still think
it's way worth it as the genuine feel and pen test part of counterfeiting was the
most difficult and time consuming thing for me to get right. Not to mention, you
would be bleaching $4 worth of ones anyway to get genuine paper of the same amount.

PS: Now if it isn't obvious, buy 100% cotton 24lb resume paper to do all your test
printing on to get your colors right. Then trim the test paper down to the same
size to get the printing alignments right.

WORD of CAUTION. If you order from this company, use BTC that has been
washed/tumbled and use a good drop and Torchat. I would avoid email and PMs through
that forum as I don't think the vendor has PGP. Now the paper itself isn't illegal
to buy or receive but LE reads both bitcointalk.org and these forums. You'll never
know if either company gets served a warrant for customer records. Now from what I
can tell on the service thread, they say they never store customer data and seem to
be all about anonymity, but again, you never know. Just play it safe and assume
they are keeping your ordering information. Now while this information alone
wouldn't allow LE to raid your house, it could definitely put you on a watch list
if your bills are showing up in the area with this paper.

Infrared Ink on back:

Most people don't know what this is. There are invisible IR strips (not to be
confused with the UV strip in the bill) on the back of US bills that are just meant
for the machines. These invisible stripe(s) are what machines read, among other
things, to determine the type of bill inserted. This invisible ink sells for around
$200 for 150ml. Needless to say, that isn't much ink for the price and doesn't make
sense to put it on the bills unless you plan to deposit them yourself into a
machine to get full value (I'm not even sure the ink would work anyway due to the
narrow IR band range real currency uses). That being said, anyone selling
counterfeits and claims their bills can be put into a slot and/or a bank deposit
machine are most likely purely lying. (lets not even forget an efficient way to
even properly apply it to the bills)

Watermark and security thread:

Please note I have included the watermark and security trip layers, however, I do
not use these. These bills are made using the one sheet method and I just have not
found a way to print them on without being visible. That being said, these security
features should hardly ever be checked if you get your print quality, colors,
paper, and aging technique down correct.

Final Thoughts:
So what's in this for me? I have done my best security wise and have fail safes in
place to the point I would literally have to be caught red handed but I am
literally always on guard as I know how serious the secret service takes
counterfeiting. I feel my OSPEC is top notch. (my communications with all the above
orders and such where done through layers of anonymity--
linux,vpn/tor/socks/drops/etc; so I posted just what little information here that I
feel safe about divulging).

That being said, I have spent a lot of counterfeit $20s in my area but I only make
about $800 weekly working a few long nights a week (this won't make you rich) and
I'm 99% sure the local secret service has built a profile on my bills. I'm actually
moving to a different state soon and have decided to start fresh with a whole new
set of templates (I used the public wiki image to go off of). So now what I have
done is completely redid my PSD templates from scratch and posted them here for
others to use. My goal is for this community to use these templates along side me
so that creating a profile on these bills won't just be in my new area but all over
the US and hopefully makes it more difficult for LE. I hope it will also help with
any possible future prosecution should the unthinkable happen. If you don't know
what I mean, get on FindLaw and research counterfeit USD cases. You should read as
many cases as you can before you start doing this; it's basically a crash course on
what to do and what not to do and how people get caught. Federal criminal cases are
all about creating doubt and knowing how federal guidelines/system work. The more
doubt you have working for you and more information you know before hand, the
better off you'll be.

Anyway, I hope this was helpful and hope people stop getting scammed looking for
counterfeit USD and just make their own. I'm not sure how thorough the secret
service is now days and what resources are available to them but I'm not taking any
chances as I know the government loves their money and I'm fucking with that. That
being said, I have posted this information on several public forums to help out the
cause. For those wondering, I have thought about selling on BRM/TCF/HackBB before
posting this but I think I make more money doing my own thing with less risk. If I
do decide to sell, I will update from this account. However, don't expect this to
happen anytime soon (if at all); play it safe and make your own.