Climbing Walls
Climbing Walls
CLIMBING WALL
GUIDANCE NOTES
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS INTRODUCTION
This document could not have been written without There is no requirement for any qualifications to be
the help of several acknowledged experts, most of held by a supervisor, coach or instructor who is leading
whom operate regularly on indoor climbing walls on walking, climbing or mountaineering activities in the UK.
a professional basis, so thanks must go to: Ian Fenton, However, there is an assumption that such people have
Joby Davis, Dan McKinley, Guy Jarvis, Mark Garland, an enhanced duty of care and should ensure that they
Dave Evans, Jon Garside and Mark Walker. are competent to manage the activities they undertake.
Mountain Training would also like to thank Beacon Should an incident occur, there may be an assumption
Climbing Centre, Lakeland Climbing Centre and that the activity leader was competent, with them or
Undercover Rock for the provision of images their employing organisation having taken reasonable
throughout this booklet. steps to ensure competence.
2 INTRODUCTION 3
GENERAL
PRINCIPLES
Any accreditation system based upon a site-specific
training and assessment scheme should be developed
for prospective leaders who are, as a minimum, com-
petent wall users in their own right. The development
of personal competence and safety should be of
primary concern to the managers of such a scheme.
Each scheme should identify a suitably qualified and
experienced technical advisor *. The role of the site-
specific award holder is to facilitate the safe and
enjoyable use of specified climbing walls at a basic
level. Site specific schemes should be designed to
be accessible to competent indoor climbers who
have an interest in supervising groups. The site
specific accreditation scheme should also provide
information for those leaders to progress to the
Climbing Wall Award if desired.
4 GENERAL PRINCIPLES 5
ESSENTIAL
CONSIDERATIONS
1. SITE SPECIFIC 3. SYLLABUS CONTENT
These guidance notes relate to the Any syllabus devised for a site-specific
development of site-specific accreditation accreditation scheme must be based
schemes. Such schemes should always upon a thorough risk assessment for each
be trained and assessed at the venues site used. These guidance notes include
to which they relate. It is not envisaged suggestions for a possible ‘core content’
that there is automatic transferability of of the knowledge and skills which may
a site-specific validation to another site. be considered to be common to all such
schemes. It should be noted, however,
that the level of skills included in this core
2. OWNERSHIP content will almost certainly differ from
scheme to scheme as each may have
The assumption behind these notes unique considerations in terms of the site
is that any site-specific accreditation to be used, the intended client group
scheme will be devised for use by and and the nature and level of activities
for a specific organisation in a specific envisaged.
location. They are designed to be used in
the development of schemes that relate In addition to these suggested core
to supervisors working in the context of an components there must be consideration
organisation. This can include staff of a of such site-specific factors as local
climbing wall; school teachers at a school regulations applied to the venue,
wall, youth workers employed by a local employer codes of practice, health
authority or volunteer leaders working for and safety issues such as Disclosure and
a voluntary organisation. Barring Service checks (DBS), insurance,
equipment, location of fire escapes and
These notes are not intended to be first aid. Where necessary these should
used to create ‘stand-alone’ awards for be incorporated into the scheme.
individuals delivered on a commercial
basis nor are they intended to infer skills
and capabilities that may be transferred
between organisations or venues. If this is
desired, the Climbing Wall Award (CWA)
is a national award and therefore more
appropriate.
6 ESSENTIAL CONSIDERATIONS 7
4. STAFFING 5. SCHEME DESIGN
Any site-specific accreditation scheme The following points should be considered
designed in accordance with this by the sponsoring organisation and the f. The level and nature of current experience
guidance should be run by a suitably technical advisor when they are contem- required of candidates who are entering
qualified and experienced technical plating the creation of any site-specific the scheme should be determined.
advisor. The appropriate qualifications for scheme: This will require a judgement as to the
this level of work would be Mountaineering levels of understanding and experience
Instructor Award (MIA), Mountaineering a. What is the aim of the scheme? Who is required to assimilate and appreciate
Instructors Certificate (MIC), Aspirant Guide it for and what need is being met that the skills listed in ‘e’ above.
or Guide and the individual concerned could not be met by recruiting suitably
should be either directly employed by the qualified supervisory staff? g. Compare the skills and experience
operating organisation or employed as that are considered to be requirements
a consultant on a contractual basis. It is b. Which wall(s)/structures and which with those of the CWA scheme as
highly desirable that the technical advisor groups of staff is it aimed at? Who is administered by Mountain Training.
is a current CWA and/or Single Pitch the operating authority and the person
Award (SPA) course provider accredited responsible (wall manager)? Who will h. If that comparison indicates that a
by Mountain Training or has considerable the client base be? distinctly lower level of skill, knowledge
experience of working on such courses. and experience may be required than
Previous experience of running or working c. What links does the organisation have that of the CWA scheme a site-specific
on a site-specific accreditation scheme with the sport of climbing, if any? What training and accreditation system may
is also highly desirable. The individual is the depth of understanding and be appropriate. If it does not then the
concerned should be responsible for the motivation of the organisation? use of the nationally recognised CWA
design, development and syllabus of the scheme should be considered. Mountain
scheme as well as directly overseeing its d. A comprehensive risk assessment should Training can advise on the entry and
delivery. They should personally complete be conducted for the site and the registration of candidates and supply
a Statement of Competence naming potential staff-group by the designated details of providers of this award scheme.
the candidate or issue all pass validations advisor even where a pre-existing risk
for candidates who have successfully assessment may be held. i. Should a site-specific scheme be
passed the assessment element of the deemed appropriate, then materials
scheme. These should be signed/emailed e. This risk assessment should be used to (syllabus, candidate guidance notes,
by the technical advisor and should, inform both a listing of skills required by a logbook, application forms and record
ideally, include a syllabus summary and the site and also the appropriate level keeping schemes) should be devised
some form of identification to prevent of skill; these may be classed as the as well as a suitable structure for the
misuse of such documentation. Monitoring ‘training objectives’ of the scheme and scheme. Consideration should always
should be done and a time limit stated will determine the assessment criteria be given to the length and nature of the
(i.e. one year). applied. Operational procedures derived training, consolidation period, length
from the risk assessment will depend and nature of the assessment and any
greatly on the proposed use of the requirements together with a time frame
facility, e.g. public/private, novice/club, for ongoing revalidation.
age of participants, top rope/leading.
1. STRUCTURE
a. All schemes should operate an identifiable training
phase using the site to which the scheme will relate.
It may be desirable to deliver the training in two parts,
comprising personal skills and group skills. There should
also be a separate assessment phase following on
from a predetermined consolidation period during
which candidates should gain further experience and
practice skills. It may be considered desirable to have
a two part assessment where the candidate is initially
assessed for their personal and technical skills and then
is assessed/observed working with a group.
12 SCHEME CONTENT 13
2. TYPICAL SYLLABUS CONTENT
• The sport of climbing, its development monitoring of harnesses when in use. Rock boots Climbing movements
and its ethics. Where options are available, candidates Where these may be issued to clients Demonstrate basic climbing movements.
• Scope of the scheme. should be able to select appropriate candidates should be able to fit and The candidate should show understanding
• The use and care of climbing equipment. harnesses for the client group, be able check for damage. of how to use the body to climb ad
to evaluate damage and know when should be able to communicate that
• Climbing skills and movement.
to refer any defects to a senior member Autobelays understanding to others.
• Supervision and group management. of staff or their technical advisor. The use of auto belays need only be
• Risk assessments. covered if in use at the venue concerned. Injury Prevention
• Accidents and incident/avoidance and Karabiners Demonstrate a working knowledge of the
procedure. Candidates should be able to select principles of warming up, warming down
appropriate karabiners and be aware c. Skills and injury avoidance. Whilst the degree
• Child protection/vulnerable adults.
of correct usage (including all locking of sophistication of this knowledge will vary
• PPE, work at height and HSE regulations. karabiners) and also be made aware Attach rope to harness from scheme to scheme the candidate
• Consent/emergency contacts/medical of the type of lower off attachment The candidate should be able to attach should, as a minimum, be able to structure
declarations. at the specific site. the rope using an accepted knot that a climbing session so as to minimise the
• Role of the UK mountaineering councils is properly secured and constantly risk of tissue damage and maximise the
in sport development. Belay Devices monitored in use for loosening. physical benefit to the participants.
Candidates may be introduced to a
variety of belay devices appropriate Knots Problems
a. The sport of climbing to their venue. It is important that advan- Demonstrate and teach appropriate knots. Be aware of the common problems
Candidates should have a good tages and limitations of the devices It may be desirable for the candidate that may arise during climbing sessions
general knowledge of climbing and are understood and that candidates to be able to develop the skills of the and take steps to avoid or minimise their
where to obtain information on current can use them safely. It is also vital that client group by teaching knot tying. The likelihood. Supervisors may be the only
developments relating to indoors and an understanding of the relationship supervisor, however, should be considered technically competent person on the
outdoors. between rope type, the climbing activity as responsible for ensuring the security of site so must be able to deal with any
and belaying device is developed. those knots. issues that may arise.
b. The use and care of essential Ropes Belaying technique They must also have a clear understanding
equipment. Candidates should be introduced to Candidates must be competent belayers, of all safety procedures including how
common types of rope and understand and able to demonstrate confident and and where to get help, what first aid or
Harnesses their construction and characteristics. fluid belaying technique. emergency equipment is stored on site
Whilst one type of harness may only They should be able to identify damage, and how to access it. They should also be
be available and/or in use in a wear and take appropriate action. Candidates should also be capable of aware of where the accident and near
site-specific environment, it is showing others how to belay and correct miss books are kept and what type of
good practice to introduce Helmets any basic faults in their technique; and incidents need recording or reporting
candidates to a variety of Candidates should be able to correctly be able to employ an appropriate system to the technical advisor.
designs and be aware of adjust, fit and secure helmets should their to safeguard novice belayers. This should
safety considerations use be appropriate to the facility or a cover bell ringing.
concerning the requirement by the owner/manager
buckling and of the facility.
Bouldering
The candidate should be able to use the
activity of bouldering to develop skills and
strengths in participants. They should be
able to demonstrate and supervise safe
Photo: Undercover Rock. ‘spotting’ and control the activity in order
to minimise risks (e.g. the imposition of
d. Supervision height limits and down climbing rather than Photo: Beacon Climbing Centre.
jumping). They should also understand
Belaying the pros and cons of the floor covering at e. Knowledge f. Possible additional elements
Supervise others belaying. The candidate their venue (from sprung floors, separate Safety requirements. Candidates should (Subject to site-specific requirements)
should know how to supervise including ‘gym’ mats to purpose matting); and be familiar with general and site-specific • Placement of ropes where they are not
when and how to intervene. They should what constitutes safe practice at their safety requirements. They should be in situ and top access is not available.
also have an understanding of the difficul- site. Candidates must appropriately brief aware of any rules and regulations that This could be done by the supervisor
ties associated with supervising a number participants in safe usage of a bouldering may apply to both ordinary participants leading a climb or ascending by other
of belayers. They should understand the area and explain the risks as necessary. and supervised groups. means as agreed with the technical
problems associated with widely differing advisor. Group management and
bodyweights in a group and be able to Working practices Knowledge of the activity supervisor safety should be paramount.
cope safely with them. Candidates should Specific venues may have child and Candidates should be able to inform
understand the benefits and limitations vulnerable adult protection policies that participants about the wider world of • The use of matting where this is available
of different backup systems including need to be observed. Candidates should climbing and relate the site-specific as mobile safety mats.
ground anchors (if available) and be be aware of the need to both protect, to the many other facets of the sport.
able to deal with holding an un- and work in such a way as to maximise, It would be advantageous if they can • The management of groups abseiling
expected fall. Communication, the safety of children and vulnerable refer participants to opportunities for future on artificial structures. There will be a
terminology and particularly adults from abuse. They should also be development, such as mountaineering need to enhance group management,
noisy environments will also aware of the need to observe sensible council workshops and publications or the technical ability and knowledge and
need to be considered. precautions for their own security and National Indoor Climbing Award Schemes. the ability to avoid and solve realistic
the prevention of any allegations. problems.
APPENDIX 5
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