Textiles Calculation Summary

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A fiber is the smallest part of a fabric. It is an individual, fine, hair-like substance.

_ Fibers have a comparatively high ratio of length to width, thus ensuring the flexibility required for manufacturing and end use (for weaving and knitting).

Source
Natural fibres Synthetic fibres
Vegetables Animal fibres _ Acrylic
fibres _ Nylon
_ Cotton _ Silk _ Polyester
_ Flax _ Wool _ Spandex

Cotton Wool
• Cotton is a plant fiber, composed mainly of • Wool is the fiber that forms the covering of sheep.
cellulose. • Wool shorn from live sheep is called fleece wool.
• Cotton is classified by its fiber length, color and Lamb’s wool is wool taken from sheep of less than one
cleanliness. year old and is very soft.
• The fiber length is the most important since the • Wool is mainly composed of protein (likes human hair)
longer the staple length, the better the fiber because it is animal fiber. It is a medium weight fiber of
properties. natural cream with fiber length between 1 and 18
• Cotton fibre length lies between ½ and 2 ½ inches.
inches, most common used is 1 to 1 ¼ inches

• Wool quality depends upon the breed of sheep, climate


and health of sheep.
• The thinner the fiber diameter, the better the properties
of wool. Merino wool is considered the best grade of
wool.
• It has the most crimp, best drape, most strength, best
resiliency, best elasticity, softest hand, and the most
scales on its surface.

Properties • The fiber has good strength and abrasion • The fiber has good resiliency when dry but poor when
resistance. It is hydrophilic, absorb moisture wet.
quickly and dried quickly. • Wool has good drape and elasticity and is hydrophilic
• Quick drying gives a cooling effect which makes (13% moisture regain) and has very little problem with
cotton a good fiber for hot weather. static.
• The fiber is completely washable and dry- • Wool makes warm fabrics for two reasons. First, it
cleanable. There are no static or pilling problems. absorbs moisture slowly and dries slowly, thus having
no cooling effect and resulting in wool’s feeling warm
when worn.
• Second, wool fabrics have excellent insulation property
because the fibers have a natural crimp which prevents
them from packing together so forms dead air spaces
(trapped air).
• The trapped air is the insulating barrier.

_ Uses • Cotton, however, has little luster and poor • Wool is a weak fibre and loses about 25% strength
elasticity and resiliency. when wet.
• It is attacked by mildew and silverfish. It is • It has poor luster and wool garments usually must be
weakened by resin chemicals used in finishing. dry-cleaned because the fabric will felt and shrink
• The end uses of cotton include a wide range of greatly if washed at elevated temperatures.
products in apparel, furnishings and industrial • Felting occurs in the presence of heat, moisture and
areas. washing.
• Examples include blouses, jackets, towels, • Wool is vulnerable to moths but can be mothproofed.
carpets, curtains, bagging Pilling will occur with this fiber.
• The principal end uses of wool include dresses, suits,
sweaters, carpets.

Nylon Polyester Acrylic (Synthetic Wool)


• Nylon is a man-made fiber • Polyester is a man-made fibre in • The first acrylic was developed by
in which the fiber-forming which the fibre-forming substance DuPont (USA in 1950). It uses in
substance is a long chain is composed of at least 85% by sweaters and blankets and has
polyamide in which less weight of ester aromatic carboxylic advantages over wool include
than 85% of the amide acid. being stronger, cheaper and
linkage are attached directly • The fiber has a rod-like shape with washable.
to two aromatic rings. a smooth surface. • A disadvantage is that it is
• The fiber has a rod-like hydrophobic.
shape with a smooth •
surface
Properties • Nylon is a lightweight fiber • Polyester is a medium weight fiber • Acrylic is a lightweight fibre with
with excellent strength and with very good strength and good drape and wool-like hand.
abrasion resistance. It is abrasion resistance. • It provides fabrics that are warm
about 10% weaker when • It can be washed and dry-cleaned. and light. It has good resiliency
wet. The fiber has excellent resiliency and elasticity and has excellent
• It is very good elasticity, and is the best wash-and-wear resistance to sunlight and
good resiliency and good fiber. weathering.
draped and can be washed • Polyester, however, is almost • It may be washed or dry-cleaned.
or dry-cleaned. completely hydrophobic (0.4% •
• Nylon, however, is a moisture regain).
hydrophobic fiber and • It is difficult to get water and
absorbs 4 ½ percent detergent into fiber to remove
moisture regain. stains.
• Nylon has static and pilling • Static and pilling are major
problems and has poor problems.
resistance to prolonged and
continuous exposure to
sunlight (unless modified to
improve them).

Uses • The end uses include a • Acrylic, however, has only fair
wide range of products in strength and becoming 20%
the apparel, interior weaker when wet.
furnishings and industrial • It is hydrophobic (1 ½ % moisture
areas regain) with static and pilling
• Examples: Dress, problem.
swimwear, exercise wear, • The end uses are sweaters,
hosiery, shirts, jackets, dresses, blankets, carpeting,
carpets, tents, fish nets, children’s garment.
sleeping bags.

Definition • Yarn tex is to measure


the yarn fineness and is
defined as the ratio of
weight (g) to its length
• Tex = weight (g)/ length
(m) X 1000

Convert to other • tex = dtex / 10 • dtex = 10 x tex • denier = 9 x tex


systems = denier / 9 = denier / 0.9 = 0.9 x dtex
= 1,000 / M = 10,000 / M = 9,000 / M
= 590.5 / C = 5905 / C = 5315 / C
= 885.8 / W = 8858 / W

Definition Metric Count ( M ) Cotton Count ( C ) Worsted Count ( W )

Convert to other systems • M = 1,000 / tex • C = 590.5 / tex • W = 885.8 / tex


= 10,000 / dtex = 5905 / dtex = 8858 / dtex
= 9,000 / denier = 5315/ denier =
= C x 1.693 = M x 0.5905 = C x 1.5
= W x 1.129 = W / 1.5 = M x 0.88858

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